Devi Temple : Vaitual Deul

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Vaitual Deul , a tantaric shrine devoted to the worship of Camudi (

as Kali is sometimes called ) is situated near the Bindu Sagar [1], a

stone's throw from the mighty Lingaraja temple [2]. It was built

sometime in 750 A.D. The structure, rectangular in form is unique in

Bhubaneshwar [3].

 

The two storeyed roof, vaulted and wagon-like, with ridges finials

and gable ends, seems to derive from the Buddhist Chaitya. The tower,

on the other hand, resembles the Dravidian Bhima Ratha of

Mahabalipuram of Tamil Nadu [4], but whether this latter similarity

is due to or a coincidence is unknown.

 

Vaitul Deul is probably a very early and unevolved example of the

panchayatana style of building, for its unusually rectangular

jagmohan contaings at every corner, a replica of the main shrine. The

tower of the small temple rises up only about 35 feet while the

ground plan measures 18 by 25 feet.

 

The rectangular tower is formed by horizontal bands of stone, broken

by thin recesses beneath the vaulted roof. Some of the cornices are

simply moulded, other ridges for visual relief. At evenly spaced

positions across the stonework are carved, miniature horseshoe style

windows, complete with face peering out. The Side of the temple have

false but heavily decorated entranceways, unreachable because of

their distance from the ground, and blocked by apsaras or goddesses,

standing in them.

 

Above the figures, the doorway curves into a traditionally Buddhist

arch and is, infact crowned by a Buddha-like hermit in meditation. In

other recesses distributed across the temples façade the apsaras

reappear, employed in the activities of their boudoirs. Around them,

all manner of curlicues curve and flowers bloom with utter disregard

to gravity.

 

One large tableau at the temple depicts an Aryan-faced Surya, with

high cheekbones and prominent , straight nose. He is surrounded by a

halo created by the glow of the Sun. He stands in his famous chariot,

driven by the god of dawn, Uday, the vehicle pulled by seven gigantic

horses. These are arranged below the panel ledge and serve not only

to "move' the chariot but to support the sculpture as well.

The God

appears to be riding into war for he is armed and his attendants are

aiming their arrows at an invisible enemy.

 

The worshipers reaches Vaitul Deul's traditionally dark garba

grha

from the hall by way of a small vestiule, designed to indicate the

proximity of his destination and remind him that his attention should

now be focused only on prayer. This sanctum sanctorum is a rare

change from the norm of the unadorned alter that most Indian Temple

adhere to. It is the ancient nature of the Camundi Devi accounts for

this breaking away from the Vedic rule. In any case, the garba grha

is fascinating for its wall panels are of images associated with

Tantaric rites , not commonly seen any more in India.

 

 

 

Footnote

[1] Bindu Sagar

Is a sacred pool which measures over 1,200 by 650 feet, and

according to myth contains water from every holy water body in the

country and was once encircled by 7,000 shrines. Today there are

fewer than 500 shrines. In the middle of the tank is a small island

with a pavilion dedicated to Shankara, where once a year, his image

is immersed in the holy water.

 

[2] Lingaraja temple : One of the largest temple in Bhubaneshwar and

is situated by the Bindu sagar. This temple was built by Yayati, a

great ruler and the founder of the Kesari Dynasti. The shrine

dedicated to Siva in a form of Tribhuvaneshwar.

 

[3] Bhubaneshwar : The capital of the modern state of Orrisa.

Possesses some of the oldest architecture in the region. It is one of

the India's foremost temple towns, bustling and dirty, home to

hundreds of temples of various ages and crowded with devotees and

tourists. It is hard to believe that once upon a time all that had

existed here was a thick forest of mango trees.

 

[4] Bhima Rathna of Mahabalipuram ( temple of the South )

Mahabalipuram : Capital city of the Pallavas who at once time ruled

the whole region from southern Andhra and eastern Karnataka down to

tanjore in Modern-day Tamil nadu.

 

 

Om ParaShaktiye Namaha