Vedic Temples Dying in Pakistan

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Temples dying in Pakistan...

 

By Firoz Bakht Ahmed

 

Few people are aware that Pakistan has Vedic temples prima au

pareil (unparallel) languishing for want of care and dying a dusty

death. Umpteen temples have vanished from the skyline of the

prominent cities of Karachi, Lahore, Rawalpindi, Sindh and

Islamabad. The clue as to how briskly they have disappeared is

provided by the fact that at the time of Independence, some 424

Hindi temples dotted the landscape of Karachi alongwith a

synagogue, several gurudwaras and a number of churches.

Over the years, however, the temples have disappeared one by

one, leaving alone only a handful of places where the city's

Hindu residents may worship.

 

According to Saquib Malik, the features editor of Karachi's

'Herald' monthly, in the year immediately following partition, a

majority of Karachi's temples were converted into Government

schools while some were turned into private residences. The

rest of the temples remained more or less undisturbed. What is

most unfortunate, according to the noted columnist of Karachi's

'Dawn' English daily, Nahid Riyaz, is that the few remaining

temples have always been under threat from the city's notorious

land mafia. In many cases, the courtyards and grounds

surrounding these structures, have already been encroached.

But more shocking is the fact that the custodians of the temples

themselves joined hands with the land grabbers. While the

administration turns a blind eye to the plunder, a vital part of the

city's cultural heritage is fast disappearing.

 

>From the Pakistani capital Islamabad to Lahore, the motorway is

not only very comfortable but also makes a memorable journey

owing to the fact that there are many Hindu and Islamic

monuments of importance and one such is the historic Katasraj

Mandir associated with the Mahabharata legend. Legend has it

that here the famous dialogue between Yudhishthira and

Yaksha took place. The story goes that here the Pandava

brothers went to quench their thirst at the Katasraj Mandir pond,

Yaksha, the protector of the pond, allowed them to drink water on

the condition they answered their questions. While the four of the

Pandavas failed to answer his questions, they were rendered

lifeless by him. Yudhisththira finally answered all the questions

and had his brothers revived by the Yaksha.

 

Vijay Goel, the Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) Lok Sabha MP,

visited this temple in Pakistan and lamented that it was in a

pathetic state in spite of the fact that it has a tremendous

following and the cases for its uplift and restoration are in the

Lahore High Court. Goel suggested that the Heads of the two

countries come together and form a Joint Committee for

involving the historians, social activists, planners and media

persons for restoration of places of religious importance both in

India and Pakistan. He made this suggestion to former Prime

Ministers Nawaz Sharif and Benazir Bhutto while on his visit to

Lahore for the historic Delhi-Lahore bus journey representing

the Indian Parliamentary delegation.

 

Goel was dazed to know that at the social level, the people of

Pakistan wanted to be close to India as much and that there are

no walls and political borders. Their craze for Amitabh Bachchan,

Rajesh Khanna, Aamir Khan, Juhi Chawla, Karishma, Kajol and

Manisha Koirala was more than the Indians, Goel felt. After

talking to the members of the Pakistani Hindu Mahasabha, Goel

found that more temples in that country were destroyed after

December 6, 1992 in the bloody Babri Masjid aftermath than in

the half century after the vivisection of the sub-continent. They

told Goel that religious fundamentalism is extremely dangerous,

especially for the minorities.

 

In the days that followed the aftermath of the Babri Masjid

demolition by the frenzied mob in Faizabad, the Hindu temples

all across Pakistan came under attack from rioting crowds. The

temples that were destroyed in Karachi and Peshawar in those

days of unbridled hate, were never rebuilt. Rather, the land on

which they were constructed, was quietly sold off to real estate

developers. Some temples have been rebuilt but they are few.

 

In the days that followed the aftermath of the Babri Masjid

demolition by the frenzied mob in Faizabad, the Hindu temples

all across Pakistan came under attack from rioting crowds. The

temples that were destroyed in Karachi and Peshawar in those

days of unbridled hate, were never rebuilt. Rather, the land on

which they were constructed, was quietly sold off to real estate

developers. Some temples have been rebuilt but they are few.

 

The very entrance to Katasraj Mandir is a pathetic one. There's

nothing that can be termed as Mandir except the ruins. In fact, the

presence of an old board only indicated that the site is that of the

famous Katasraj Mandir where a guard is also placed. There is

a plaque by the Archaeological Survey of Pakistan that quotes

the history of this temple. "Katas: Kohistan Mountains, Central

Chakwal --- according to the legend of the Mahabharata, when

Lord Shiva lost his wife Parvati, he felt so upset that the ponds at

the eastern and western ends of the temple got filled by his

tears. In Sanskrit it is also known as 'Katak Sheel' which means

flow of tears. Later on the name got twisted to 'Katas'. The place

is of great significance for the Brahmins."

 

Even Al-Bairuni wrote an interesting history of the temple in his

'Kitab-ul-Hind' where he depicts that he learnt Sanskrit and

science at Katas. Not only this, quite interestingly, he even learnt

many Vedic traditions. Renowned historian Panikkar states that

'Kitab-ul-Hind' brings a very honest and first-hand account of

history at that time. It is also mentioned in Bairuni's book that

Katas happened to be the most revered Mandir after Punjab's

Jwalamukhi Mandir. This fact is also confirmed by Liaqat Ali

Khan Niyazi, the Deputy Commissioner of Chakwal. Al-Bairuni

also mentioned about other Pakistani temples like Panch Mukhi

ka Hanuman Mandir, Nagnath Baba Mandir and Darya Lal

Mandir.

 

The grounds of the famous Nagnath Bawa Mandir in Karachi

have been occupied by a businessman housing a soap factory.

Though the owner claims to have brought it legally from the

Karachi Building Control Authority (KBCA), Hindu residents of the

area dispute the claim. The historic importance of this temple is

that once Lord Shankar wanted to lead peaceful existence for

some time and he came here. He took the permission of Anant

Vasudevji, who gladly agreed and desired that the deity visited

this place regularly even later on. It was managed by a local trust

of the Hindu community that has no influence in the area. Not

very distant is the Preedy Police Station adjacent to which is the

Preedy Mandir at Sadar. It was occupied by the dreaded land

mafia in that area. The trustees of the temple said that it was

owing to a nexus between the land grabbers, police and

politicians.

 

Similarly, there is Narayan Mandir, situated at MA Jinnah Road,

just opposite the head office of the Karachi Municipal

Corporation. Presently, it has been managed by the All-Pakistan

Hindu Panchayat Committee and community leaders. It is known

for colourful festivals. The shopkeepers on the road have not

only encroached upon its premises but also started storing their

merchandise in the temple compound. Raja Dharampal Varma,

an office bearer, states that initially the shopkeepers said that

they were sitting there only to avoid the heat during the summer.

But, slowly they started using the premises as a warehouse.

That's why they sealed the rear gate of the temple for fear of an

attack by the fanatics.

 

Narinder Jogi, a former trustee of the temple told that they

complained to the authorities but to no avail. They have been

pleading their case since Benazir Bhutto was the Prime Minister

during her first-term but in vain. "The corrupt have no fear, for they

know even if they are entrapped and an enquiry held and they are

found to be guilty and suspended, they will soon walk back or

walk to an even better job. It is indeed difficult to fight and win",

rues a disgruntled Jogi.

 

Darya Lal Mandir in the vicinity of the Customs House got its

name as it is situated just on the edge of the Arabian sea. The

story goes that the Hindus living in the areas around this temple

sought the blessing of the deity in the sanctum sanctorum

before launching their boats in the sea. It is believed that those

who sought the blessings, were safe and sound no matter

whatever the fury of the tempest used to be. Apart from that they

also got the best variety of fish. Basically most of them came

from Mohalla Mahigir (fishermen's locality). Today, they prefer to

make their journey without Darya Lal's blessings, perhaps

because a large part of the temple as well as the surrounding

area has been encroached upon by the Karachi Hazara Goods

Company, transporters and a tea canteen. The company owner

and his employees harass visitors to Darya Lal, especially the

women.

 

In Karachi's famous Hingora Lane, Lyari, the famous Jagdish

Mandir was completely destroyed in the aftermath of Babri

Masjid debacle. The Pujari, Sant Ram Bhatia, lamented the fact

that prior to the Babri Masjid disaster, there was little love lost

between the Hindus and Pathans and Balochis living in the

neighbourhood. Rather, in the absence of the Pujari, the

immediate neighbour Shamsher Khan Diwan took care of the

temple premises and opened it if some visitor wanted to see it.

Twice Bhatia visited India and each time he left the keys in the

possession of Diwan who fully guaranteed its safety. But, after

the sad Ram Mandir imbroglio, the very same neighbours

accuse the Indian ilks of Pujari to be non-secular and fascist and

anti-Muslim. A portion of the Mandir was taken by a madrasa and

the remaining part was converted into a warehouse by the

Managing Committee of the temple. Today, there is no trace of

Jagdish Mandir, where the famous Saint Rishi Gautam used to

reside here and even Ganga once appeared here in the form of

Gautmi alongwith Shiva Trayambkeshwara Jyotirlinga. Now all

this is a legend.

 

Lyari's largest Hindu temple was the Panjrapur Mandir. A portion

of the temple's ground has been taken over by an adjacent

building after some understanding by the trustees of the temple.

After that another portion of the courtyard of the temple was

bought by another person for commercial purposes. The

construction is still on with the help of Khatu Mal, Member,

Pakistani Assembly. Others who sold off the temple premises

include the self-proclaimed Mahanta Babu Lal and temple

caretaker Kishan Meghwar. Only 6x8 feet portion remains of what

is now that Mandir that was spread over 3,000 sq yds. Not very

far away from Panjrapur Mandir is the once famous Bhagnari

Mandir near Tea Market that was constructed by the Balochi

Hindus and was visited by the members of one Lassi tribe. More

than half of the temple premises has been occupied by a

transporter and a courier company, Al-Rifah.

 

Laxmi Narayan Panghat Mandir, situated beside the Native Jetty,

(Neti-Jeti in the vernacular) once held a special significance for

Hindu women, who came here for performing the ritual

purification bath. Goddess Laxmi and Lord Narain also

appeared here. It was originally here that out of reverence for this

pious place that some tears fell from the eyes of Lord Narayan

and Bindu Sarovar, a fresh water pound came into being

immediately after that. Over the last few decades the devotees

numbers have decreased owing to encroachment upon the

premises by some politicians and other influential people. The

aesthetic beauty of the temple has been marred owing to the

construction of the Jinnah Over Bridge Extension. Besides, the

women devotees hesitate to visit the site because of late the

area has become a hunting ground for lecherous young men,

especially during the festivals of Rakhi, Ganpati, Karwa Chauth,

Holi and Diwali. Some distance away from this temple used to

be the Hanuman Mandir at Frere Market Road that was

abandoned after Babri Masjid debacle. Today, a cryptic sign

reading KESC-208 is painted on the door.

 

In a recent judgement, the Chief Justice of Sindh, Kamal

Mansoor Alam, realising the lack of confidence in the Pakistani

Courts and the frustration of the minorities of that city who have

filed umpteen number of petitions against the illegal and forced

occupation of the temples, has appointed a 'Temple Bench'

comprising two fearless judges, Justice Rana Bhagwandas and

Sabihuddin Ahmed. He has also ordered it to sit on one day

each week to hear cases involving encroachment on temples.

This bench has successfully and expeditiously dispensed

justice.

 

Salman Rashid, a freelance Karachi journalist, states that such

unauthorised temple occupations are not raised overnight in a

manner that would escape the notice of the officials, nor they can

remain concealed. Such illegal activity bears testimony to the

indifference of the authorities. At the same time, he maintains

that the question of the illegal occupation of temples in Pakistan

and mosques in India is a very sensitive one. The two countries'

administrators must bear this in mind that if a temple is burnt in

Pakistan, the ones to suffer will be the innocnt Indian Muslims

and their mosques and if a similar incident takes place in India

where a mosque is harmed, the innocent Pakistani Hindus have

to bear the brunt.

 

Rashid maintains that this is very unfortunate and with the

presence of custodians of law, the law of the jungle must not

prevail. The two governments must respect the places of

worship of all the communities. Rashid quoted the Karachi

Governor Moinuddin Haider saying that one single most heinous

crime in the religious realm of the sub-continent was the

destruction of Babri Masjid. Let's hope sanity and better sense

prevails and the religious places of all the communities remain

safe, not only in the sub-continent but elsewhere even - for they

are the harbingers of harmony for those who are attached to

them in the heart and mind.

 

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