Studying Yoga in Rishikesh

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Yoga in Rishikesh

Rishikesh

At the foothills of the Himalayas along the banks of the sacred river Ganges,

lies the town of Rishikesh. The first town this holy river reaches on its

decent from the mountains, Rishikesh is home to many ashrams, and most major

Indian ashram, including Vivekenanda, Sivananda, Osho, Bihar school of yoga,

have an office there. It is a good place to experience classical Indian yoga.

Class instruction may leave a few gaps for students used to the precision of

western classes, but with its slow and spiritual atmosphere, it's an enjoyable

place to begin discovering what India has to offer. Rishikesh is less intense

than other parts of India, probably because people have religion on their

minds. Most people are very friendly and quick to say hello or namaste. As a

pilgrimage point, Rishikesh greets many devout Hindus and wandering sadhus

(holy men). Many come to bathe in the sanctified waters of the Ganges, as

Hindus believe this can remove layers of karma. This peaceful ashram centre is

certainly one of the more atmospheric places in India. As the sun rises from

behind the mountains, and cuts through the fog, locals wash in the river. Live

temple chanting sets the tone. Beginning around 4 am, the chants float across

the water until well after dark. During night time pujas (ceremonies),

offerings of hundreds of camphor flame leaf boats float picturesquely on the

river. The commercial centre is more typical of India. But there is little need

to visit it as the ashram centre, located on either side of a footbridge over

the river, has great bookshops, good restaurants and email places. As a holy

city, Rishikesh is fully vegetarian, so you won't even find an egg there.

Rishikesh hosts an International Yoga Festival, which is held every year in the

first week of February.

Where to Study

The Yoga Study Centre, Ganga Vihar, Haridwar Road, Rishikesh, 249201 Tel. +91

135 431196. Bramacharya Rudra Dev, a senior Iyengar teacher, conducts lessons

in a rather militaristic style and students need to move quickly to keep up.

Many western students appreciate his style and are able to feel the warmth

behind his challenging adjustments. While Br. Dev's English is fluent, it might

take a few days to get used to his accent, which is so strong that it is

sometimes hard to tell whether he is speaking English or Hindi. His students

are a mix of locals and Westerners. Donated mats and blankets are provided

though if you are concerned about cleanliness you might want to bring your own.

As with most Indian yoga schools, women should dress modestly. There are classes

daily at the centre. Twenty day intensives are held three times a year during

February, April and September. The centre is closed from mid-December to

mid-January and for March, May and June. The Yoga Study Centre is on the other

side of town from the other ashrams, and from where most people stay. A

constant stream of Rs3 shared rickshaws move up and down the main road, and

many go as far as the centre.

Yoga Niketan Ashram Tel. +91 135 430227.Located near the footbridge, just south

of the Sivananda Ashram, classes are taught in a traditional Indian teaching

style. Asanas taught are the classical postures with few variations or

adjustments. Class instructors often use the sing-song voice sometimes found in

India as they gently urge you to 'Relaaaax'. The green ashram grounds full of

monkeys are a short, steep walk up from the main road, taking you towards river

views and away from the bustle. To stay on the ashram you need to commit to 15

days or more and attendance at the morning and evening yoga and meditation

classes is compulsory. Those not staying on the ashram are welcome to attend

classes and can also use the library.

Sri Ved Niketan Ashram Tel. +91 135 433537/430279.Across the river on the

Eastern side of the Ganges, turn right after the footbridge and it's a five

minute walk. The classes offer gentle yoga style similar to the Bihar School of

Yoga and classes cover gentle warm ups for the joints, a few asanas and some

pranayama. Meditation classes are offered too. Classes are held morning and

evening in the big central hall. One month courses held seven times a year, and

cover asana, pranayama and yoga and Hindu philosophy. It is not obligatory to

participate in the classes, bhajans or satsangs in order to stay on the

grounds.

Swati & Rajiv Chanchani - Padmini Nivas Estate, The Mall, Library, Mussoorie

248 179, Phone: +91-135-7529, TeleFax: + 91-135-632793, Email -

yoganga (AT) nde (DOT) vsnl.net.in / yoganga (AT) sancharnet (DOT) in website: www.yog-ganga.comFor

first class Iyengar yoga instruction it is worth spending time in Dheradun, one

hour by bus from Rishikesh and Haridwar. This husband and wife team, Rajiv and

Swati Chanchani, are both senior Iyengar teachers, each with about 25 years

experience. Authors of the book, Yoga for Children, the couple teach occasional

5-20 day courses in Dheradun, around India, England, Israel, and the USA. Using

precise, abrupt, energy raising instructions, relayed from a kind heart, Swati

has a brilliant understanding of the effects of the asanas. She is a wealth of

knowledge on finer adjustments and comfortably adapts them to individuals with

a spread of abilities throughout the class. During the asana courses you will

find yourself using props or modifications in each pose. A little pranayama and

philosophy is covered.Rajiv and Swati Chanchani have written a book entitled

Yoga for Children, which has been reprinted several times and has been

translated in French. Teachers and teacher-trainees who wish to seriously learn

the art of teaching yoga to children can apprentice at their children's classes

at the schools.Acceptance to any kind of training under Rajiv and Swati

Chanchani has to be confirmed in writing, in advance. Moreover, applicants must

have a recommendation from an Iyengar yoga teacher or from a person who has

studied with the Chanchanis.The centre holds three intensive courses a year and

each course is of about three weeks duration. Asana, Pranayama and basic Yoga

philosophy are taught.Besides these three-week courses, short workshops and

on-going 'general-classes' are also conducted: these are held in Dehradun and

other locations. From April 2002, they will teach mostly from their new yoga

centre in the lovely green hills, 25 minutes drive from Dheradun.With direct

trains, buses and flights from Delhi, Dheradun has an agreeable climate and

there is plenty to explore in the surrounding mountains, rivers and forests.

Capital of a newly created state, Uttaranchal, Dheradun itself has little to

recommend it as a travel destination but lovers of Iyengar yoga will find the

quality of instruction more than makes up for lack of inspiration in the city

surroundings. Yoga students generally rent furnished cottages with kitchens

from local families for Rs3000-5000 per bedroom per month. Swati can help set

something up.

Other Things to Do

Sivananda Ashram P.O. Sivanandanagar, Dist. Tehri-Garhwal, 249192. While they

share the same guru, this ashram is part of the Divine Life Society, and

different to the Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Ashrams and Centres found around the

world. The Sivananda Ashram has three living gurus - Chidananda, Brahmananda

and Krishnananda, all direct disciples of the Swami Sivananda. Although no

regular yoga classes are conducted here, it is possible to attend the lectures

on philosophical subjects, and studies of classical texts like the Bhagavad

Gita and the Upanishads. To stay on the ashram it is necessary to request it in

writing ahead of time, and explain your reasons for the stay. The ashram is near

the footbridge on the west - city- side of the river.

Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ayurvedic Centre located by the Niketa Ashram sells

ayurvedic health products. It might be possible to organise classes in ayurveda

if you can put together a small group.

Places to Stay

Most people choose to stay along the banks of the Ganges. Omkarananda may call

itself an ashram, but feels more like a shoeless guesthouse with a curfew.

Rooms are large, light and airy, with balconies perched over the flowing

Ganges. It is worth staying there for the superb yoga room featuring floor

length windows looking out across the river. It is fully 'block and tackle'

equipped - yoga belts, blocks, back archers, wall ropes. Room rates are

inexpensive, and a discount applies to stays over three days. Guests may use

the yoga room for an additional 100 rupees a week. Book ahead in high season.

(tel. +91 135 430883) Views from The Swiss Cottage are worth lugging your

backpack for ten minutes up the dirt track. Situated high up in a green oasis

you can enjoy the chanting which wafts up from the valley. Delight in a feast

from their Swiss bakery, as you sit in the shade overlooking a running

waterfall.

Getting to Rishikesh

Rishikesh is 6 hours (250 kms) by bus from Delhi. Buses depart regularly

throughout the day from near the ISBT. Trains, including the luxurious

Shatabdhi Express with its meal service and air conditioning arrive at

Haridwar, an hour by bus or taxi to Rishikesh.

Christina Brown for Yoga OnlinePhotograh Malcom Beatie

http://indigo.ie/~cmouze/yoga_online/Rishikesh.htmDo you ?

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