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Plant dyes for fabric

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>> Can anyone give me information on the process of extracting dye from plant

>> material, and if it requires any stabilisation or anything.

 

>Another very important point is to make full use of local people.

 

As no one seems to be contributing much on this subject, other than that

sage advice from Hare Krsna Dasi, I'll just add my very rudimentry

experiences. We've only done some very simple vegetable dying here at

Pundarik Dham. Mostly with cloth, but have also tried with Deity face

painting (alpana), handmade paper, mud plaster, cane & mats, wood finishes,

baskets, etc.

 

DYEING

Generally the process we've used (for cloth) is simply to boil the raw

material with an equal amount of water (perhaps with a pinch of soda) for

at least 30 minutes, strain it through a cloth and then add the cloth and

boil while stirring gently, till the desired color is obtained, usually

half an hour. For deeper colors the cloth may be dried and then dyed once

or twice again. You'll need a plentiful supply of good, clean water,

preferably running (like a stream).

 

MORDANTING

So far as stabilizing, fixing or mordanting is concerned, this is another

art that can enhance or even alter the color according to what mordant

agent is used and the properties of the raw dye material. We generally use

alum (what indian barbers use after shaving), as it's a natural product.

Some other common mordants are copper sulphate, potassium dichromate or

ferrous sulphate.We dissolve 1 part alum in 20 parts hot water till

dissolved, add the cloth and boil for half an hour, while gently stirring.

Then the cloth can be dried in the sun or just well-squeezed and dyed.

 

RAW MATERIALS

Can be almost anything, use local traditional knowledge as Hare Krsna Dasi

suggests or just your imagination, almost any plant or mineral source can

be used. You can be mix the raw materials to get new color combinations or

dye the cloth in one and then another color. This is only a very small list

of some of the raw materials that we have used (more or less successfully)

and that I think you just might find in Mauritius (or at Indian shops):

 

LEAVES & PETALS:

Marigold petals = Mustard color

Mehendi (henna) leaves = Golden

Dahlia petals = Peach gold

Eucalyptus leaves = Deep gold/gray

Sheuli (coral jasmine) petals = Yellow

Elachi (cardamon) = Pink

Champa (frangipani) = Light olive green

Jhau (casuarina) leaves = Deep pink

Krishnachura (golmohur) petals = Light green

Cha (tea) leaves = Beige

Lemongrass = Light green

Tulsi leaves* = lime green

*Here we just used dried ones that had fallen on the ground for Deity's cloth.

 

SKIN & ROOTS:

Haldi (tumeric) roots = Yellow/golden

Piyaz (onion) skin/peel = Orange gold

Dalim (pomegranate) rind = Khaki

Manjit(madder) stems = rust/red

 

BARK & SAWDUST:

Arjun (?) bark = Mauve/pink

Kanthal (jackfruit) sawdust = Yellow ochre/light yellow

Babla (babul) bark = Beige

Goran (?) bark = Salmon pink

Sundari (mangrove) bark = Deep pink

Shilkorai (rain tree) = Old gold

Patabahar (croton) bark = Pink

 

FRUITS & SEEDS:

Latkan (annatto) seeds = Orange

Gaab (wild mangosteen) fruit = Gray/pink

Haritaki (myrobolan) fruit = Grey/gold

Supari (betel nut) = Deep pink

 

EXTRACTS:

Neel (indigo) leaf extract = Deep blue (deep green)

Khair (catechu) wood extract = Brown/maroon

 

 

BLOCK PRINTING (for saris, namabolis, etc.)

We've also experimented using wooden blocks (cut with designs) and a paste

of the dye made with gum arabic (or tamarind seeds, etc.) for hand printing

on plain or dyed cloth. There's also reverse printing, wax printing,

tie-dyeing...., that we have not got into (yet).

 

Besides being an art, if not taken too seriously, can be fun. Always keep

notes of what you used, did and got (attach a cloth sample) so you can

reproduce if wanted.

 

ys, nistula dasa

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> You can be mix the raw materials to get new color combinations or

> dye the cloth in one and then another color. This is only a very small list

> of some of the raw materials that we have used (more or less successfully)

 

I am curious. Since saffron seems to be the color of renunciation, I would

assume that the dye used to get the color is easily available in nature. Do

you

happen to know what the traditional source for that is?

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In India and here, the Gaudiya Math and ISKCON 'traditional' brahmacaries

(those not swayed by all the new chemical sources) generally use a mineral

source locally called "garo mati", literally "red-earth". It's an ochre

colored very soft clay. I don't know exactly where it comes from, but is

readily available in shops that sell kaviraj supplies and such items. A

small piece is just tied into a cloth (to prevent loose pieces leaving

spots), dissolved into a bucket of water (hot is best) and then the cloth

is just stirred around as usual till the depth of color desired is

acheived. Quite simple - even for brahmacharies. It gives a very soothing

saffron (salmon?) color, very different from the bright oranges and golds

increasingly prevelent. Of course the mineral can also give you very deep

ochre shades if wanted (more earth - longer time). Does this answer your

question at all?

 

>I am curious. Since saffron seems to be the color of renunciation, I would

>assume that the dye used to get the color is easily available in nature. Do

>you

>happen to know what the traditional source for that is?

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Dear Nisula prabhu.

Please accept my humble obeisances. All glories to Srila Prabhupada.

 

Thanks for that extensive inforamtiom. It is really good of you to share it

with us. I cant wait to get into it.

 

By the way, you wouldnt happen to know where alum originates would you?

 

Your Servant

Samba das

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>Thanks for that extensive inforamtiom. It is really good of you to share it

>with us. I cant wait to get into it.

 

Well, at least I kept someone awake while 'boring' thru it all...

It was a rather long reply as you wrote from that wonderful little island

paradise (that I have such fond memories of) and was thinking about those

of us who do not live in the west, have visa cards or access to amazon.com,

et. al. and therefore those nice lists of wonderful 'how-to' books are

wasted on us poor souls.

 

>By the way, you wouldnt happen to know where alum originates would you?

 

Sorry, not a clue...I suppose I could ask around - but being a patron

member of Procrastinators Anonymous, please don't hold your breath.

 

Can anyone help with this, perhaps with some url listing mineral sources?

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> . It gives a very soothing

> saffron (salmon?) color, very different from the bright oranges and golds

> increasingly prevelent. Of course the mineral can also give you very deep

> ochre shades if wanted (more earth - longer time). Does this answer your

> question at all?

>

> >I am curious. Since saffron seems to be the color of renunciation, I would

> >assume that the dye used to get the color is easily available in nature. Do

> >you

> >happen to know what the traditional source for that is?

 

Answers it exactly. A mined mineral that is readily available in India.

Brings

up, is this mineral available in America. To implement VAD here, it seems we

wouldn't want to have to be dependent on importing from India. So the next

question is, how to get that color easily here, or, more radically, if the

color is not easily available, what color would earth friendly renunciates in

the US use?

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On 23 Jul 1999, Madhava Gosh wrote:

 

> > . It gives a very soothing saffron (salmon?) color, very different from

the bright oranges and golds increasingly prevelent. Of course the mineral can

also give you very deep ochre shades if wanted (more earth - longer time).

Does this answer your question at all?

> >

> > >I am curious. Since saffron seems to be the color of renunciation, I

would assume that the dye used to get the color is easily available in nature.

Do you happen to know what the traditional source for that is?

 

> Answers it exactly. A mined mineral that is readily available in India.

Brings up, is this mineral available in America. To implement VAD here, it

seems we wouldn't want to have to be dependent on importing from India. So

the next question is, how to get that color easily here, or, more radically,

if the color is not easily available, what color would earth friendly

renunciates in the US use?

>

Comment:

We get a very nice ochre shade from using red clay from the local ponds. We

use a different proceedure that involves wetting the cloth then rubbing

handfulls of wet clay into the cloth. Then letting it dry on the beach (while

we do a little bathing). When dry it is shaken and then rinsed a few times.

This colour lasts about two months if you do not hang it in the direct sun.

Our sun bleachs everything, most Brown Swiss here are a light gray not a dark

brown. Animals from the north that have been brought here may come as dark

brown but after a few years about 2/3 turn to the gray version (not a slate

gray but an almost white).

 

In the late 70's one devoteee working with mahogany, collected shavings and

sawdust put in a piece of cloth tie the ends and lowered it in to a container

of very hot water and dyed his cloth a dark ochre. This colour lasts a little

longer.

 

Both of the above are without using any mordant to fix the colours.

 

ys,

Rohita dasa

Coastal Mississippi

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>To implement VAD here, it seems we wouldn't want to have to be dependent

>on importing from India. So the next question is, how to get that color

>easily here, or, more radically, if the color is not easily available,

>what color would earth friendly renunciates in the US use?

 

Rohita Prabhu's solutions sound great. Similarly, I prefer to avoid

'importing' the clay from India (even with it being relatively nearby), and

have used some regional clays, wood shavings/sawdust and vegetable sources

to get some hues that may not be the 'official' one, but at least a fair

approximation and look OK. Sufficient to distinguish the brahmacharies from

the householders. If these regional variations were practiced, we could

learn to tell where visiting sanyasis and brahmacharies were from 'by the

color of their cloth':-)

 

ys, nistula dasa

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On 24 Jul 1999, Nistula das wrote:

 

> >To implement VAD here, it seems we would not want to have to be dependent

on importing from India. So the next question is, how to get that color

easily here, or, more radically, if the color is not easily available, what

color would earth friendly renunciates in the US use?

>

> Rohita Prabhu's solutions sound great. Similarly, I prefer to avoid

'importing' the clay from India (even with it being relatively nearby), and

have used some regional clays, wood shavings/sawdust and vegetable sources to

get some hues that may not be the 'official' one, but at least a fair

approximation and look OK. Sufficient to distinguish the brahmacharies from

the householders. If these regional variations were practiced, we could learn

to tell where visiting sanyasis an brahmacharies were from 'by the color of

their cloth':-)

>

> ys, nistula dasa

>

>

 

I do not think that would be possible as from my example we had three basic

colours of saffron at New Talavan.

 

1. The synthetic dhotis artificial saffron.

2. Clay dyed.

3. Wood dyed.

 

Each of these was a different colour and varied according to how much

attention was paid by the devotee dying, so there were different shades of

those two of the three colours. No variation on the first one. Rather, Varna

will designate colour; those working with wood would tend to use the colour

from wood and so on. There would be no way that one could distinguish where

you were living. That is unless those from different locations made an

agreement to having a particular colour designated for their location, as the

villagers in the Andes do with each village having a particular pattern on

their cloth.

Ys,

Rohita dasa

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Rohita Prabhu wrote:

 

>There would be no way that one could distinguish where you were living.

>That is unless those from different locations made an agreement to having

>a particular colour designated for their location, as the villagers in the

>Andes do with each village having a particular pattern on their cloth.

 

Yes, I kind of realized this, it was more or less a rather bad pun:-). On

the Andes thread: In the hill tracts near here (that extend into Myanmar)

there are 14 indigenous tribes, some of them would be very difficult to

distinguish from the others if they didn't each have their traditional

colored cloth dyed using easily available plant sources. Here, I don't

believe there was any formal agreement, simply a tradition developed over

many years.

 

ys, nistula dasa

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That is unless those from different

> locations made an agreement to having a particular colour designated for

> their location, as the villagers in the Andes do with each village having

> a particular pattern on their cloth.

 

Interesting. The ancient Scots also had a different tartan pattern for many

families or tribes. An educated Scotsman can tell your lineage by the tartan

you wear.

 

It is these kinds of things that make a tradition rich. Vaisnavism was for

many thousands of years restricted to India. Now it has spread and is making

roots in the west. Hundreds of years from now, the activities we develop

towards varnasrama community (if we ever do) will become the fixed

traditions of the world vaisnava order, with particular nuances in each

location.

 

Isn't that a wonderful thought!

 

Varnasrama dhama ki Jai!

 

YS

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