Vrindavan – The Land of Love

[suchandra]

This is modern education in India's schools, Lord Sri Krishna's land Vrindavan "refers to an utopia". Looks like India is on its way to lose touch with its own culture and suffer the consequence.

Vrindavan – The Land of Love

http://www.independent.com.mt/news.asp?newsitemid=62134

posted Monday, December 17, 2007

 

This is Vrindavan, the most elevated place in the spiritual world according to Vaishnava texts, and it has manifested here on earth. Indeed, Vrindavan is used to refer to a utopia throughout India.

 

According to Hinduism, when 5,000 years ago Sri Krishna, the Supreme Lord, chose to manifest his eternal pastimes (lila) in the forests of Vrindavan with his consort Srimati Radharani, the cows, the cowherd-boys and -girls, that plane descended here on Earth. Today, the transcendental town lies about 15 kilometres from Mathura, which is 150 kilometres south on the Delhi-Agra highway.

 

It is said that Vrindavan now exists in a hidden way, and only the most elevated yogis, sages and mystics with transcendental vision are able to see those eternal pastimes still taking place. Not having that kind of vision, what I see on entering Vrindavan, of the district of Mathura in Uttar Pradesh, still appeals to my eyes.

 

We drive along a road where the Jamuna once flowed before the holy river changed its course. Ancient-looking ghats line the road in various degrees of submersion under sand. In the distance I can see the Jamuna winding through the golden plains. A huge camel approaches us from the opposite direction, pulling a cart - perhaps a reminder of our proximity to the Rajasthan desert. There are monkeys everywhere.

 

Turning in it appears a comparitively peaceful little town. I cannot sense 58,000 people. I like it immediately.

 

Monday, 3 December

 

Partly as a sign of respect for a most revered place of pilgrimage and partly as a tourist, I do the renowned Vrindavan Parikrama - a pilgrimage walk around the boundary of the town within a parameter known as the pancha-cross, or five-point cross. In Hinduism, it is customary to walk barefoot around temples and holy objects as a sign of reverence.

 

I begin just where the Jamuna River - which to some Vaishnavas is holier than the Ganges due to its direct participation in Krishna's lila - still flows along the ghats. Jamuna Devi will meet Ganga Devi downstream. The style of the ghats reminds me of Varanasi, except that they are wonderfully peaceful. Only several pilgrims chanting mantras in contemplation while fingering their japa-mala beads populate them. Boats are available but I am only asked once if I want one.

 

The Parikrama Marg - pilgrimage way - takes me through simple village life, past a few ashrams and on through a busier part of town until I circle back towards the ghats. Along the way, I am humbled by what I come across.

 

I overtake several elderly people, some of them hobbling along with a stick. Using a brisk pace the round can be done in two hours, but for some it takes over a week: they pay obeisances at every step, placing a stone down in front of them as they prostrate, body flat on the ground, to stand at the stone and prostrate again - what is known as a dandavat parikrama.

 

I feel meek in the presence of such devotees of God, and offer my respects to them. The Vedas state a number of Indian cities which are conducive to liberation and spiritual fulfillment, of which one is Mathura-Vrindavan. It is thus a place of pilgrimage for all Hindus and a Mecca for Vaishnavas.

 

Tuesday, 4 December

 

"Radhe Radhe!" shouts the rickshaw-wallah trying to cycle through the narrow streets. Bright-eyed kids wave to me and giggle "Radhe Radhe!" as I pass them. I get to the shop. "Radhe Radhe!" says the shop-keeper as I enter. Again he says it as he hands me my change with a smile, and I say it back to him in thanks.

 

I find it amusing and enlivening that here in Vrindavan nobody need worry much about language-barriers. "Radhe Radhe!" means good morning, good night, hello, goodbye, thank you, look out, stop, hey... just about anything can be understood by repeatedly proclaiming the pet-name of Srimati Radharani, consort of Lord Krishna.

 

How could anybody possibly forget Sri Radha, when her name is being uttered constantly? She, the female portion of the Divine, is the pleasure potency of the Lord - she thus has the highest service capacity and the Lord himself becomes enslaved by her pure love. She is the inspiration of the devotees and her service their highest aspiration.

 

Such is the quality of consciousness in Vrindavan, where a shop-keeper will tell you that he is not doing business, but service. The devotion present in Vrindavan is truly impressive - intense yet beautifully light. The Vedic scriptures are full of rules and regulations for conducting sacrifice and worship, but here in Vrindavan they do not apply. Love of God is spontaneous, with no holds barred. On the streets you constantly hear the unselfconscious singing of holy names. It is addictive and inspiring.

 

Indeed I have never been to Lourdes, Jerusalem or Mecca but I find it hard to imagine an entire town of people who love God with so much intensity in day to day life. Every second building is a holy site and every second shop supplies devotional apparel. I feel blessed to be in Vrindavan.

 

Thursday, 6 December

 

It is told that there are 5,000 temples in Vrindavan. Indeed, even if it were only 500, it is impossible to see them all. Still, just around the centre of town where I am staying at Sri Chaitanya Saraswat Math and Mission in Seva-Kunj, are some rather prominent ones. I am fascinated by the history of each temple, and find myself lowering my head and pressing my palms together in humble respect!

 

The Radha-Damodar temple contains a collection of deities worshiped by great saints, including a rock from the sacred Govardhan Hill, about forty minutes' drive away. It is said to have been given to Srila Sanatan Goswami, a renowned Gaudya-Vaishnava saint, by Lord Krishna himself.

 

This Govardhan Shila is marked by Sri Krishna's foot-print, a cow-print and Sri Krishna's flute. Performing parikrama around it four times is equivalent to making the four-or-more-hour pilgrimage walk around the actual Govardhan Hill, so the line of people circling the temple is continuous. Along the way are many tombs, known as Samadhi Mandirs, of many saints and sages.

 

The Radha-Raman temple houses a self-manifested deity of Sri Krishna. One pure devotee, Srila Gopal Bhatta Goswami, used to worship a Narayan Shila - a sacred rock considered to be a manifestation of Lord Vishnu (a different form of Lord Krishna). Due to the devotee's sadness at not being able to offer dresses and ornaments as one does to a deity, one day the sacred stone, which would be kept in a hidden place, transformed itself into the deity of Sri Krishna that we see in the temple today!

 

The Radha-Syamsundar-jee temple was established by Sri Shyamananda Prabhu near the location where he had accidentally found an anklet belonging to Sri Radha herself. When she came to claim it, she manifested a deity of Sri Krishna from her heart - a deity worshiped by Sri Shyamananda Prabhu thereafter and by his disciples to this day. It is the only deity said to have come directly from Srimati Radharani and is thus extremely special!

 

 

continued....

[suchandra]

Saturday, 8 December

 

The Radha-Govindadev-ji and Radha-Madhana-Mohan temples were run by Srila Rupa Goswami and Srila Sanatan Goswami respectively, both prominent Gaudya-Vaishnava saints and associates of the golden avatar, Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu. An avatar is an incarnation of the Supreme Lord himself, according to Hindu tradition, and Sri Chaitanya is the latest avatar, appearing only 500 years ago in West Bengal.

 

These buildings are thus perhaps the oldest standing temples in Vrindavan today. They boast truly impressive architecture although they were both partly destroyed by the attacks on Vrindavan during Muslim rule. The Radha-Govindadev-ji temple used to be seven stories high, but alas only three remain. The original deities of both these temples are still in Rajasthan, where they had been taken for safe-keeping. Today other deities reside in the temples and worship still takes place.

 

It seems that any temple I visit has a constant trail of visitors from all over the world. I am amazed to notice local children as young as six observe temple-worship and do parikrama of their own accord, while normal children simply like to play! As it is stated in the scriptures, this Vrindavan seems truly a special place where only elevated souls take birth.

 

Monday, 10 December

 

It is not the common sparrow sitting on the electric lines, but bright green parrots. Squirrels bearing three stripes on their back from being stroked by the fingers of Lord Rama, another avatar, are in abundance. Hogs clean the streets from any litter. Peacocks beautify the place.

 

However, it is the cows that wander in Vrindavan as if they own the place, strutting into temples demanding food rather than begging for it. This is Lord Krishna's place, these are Lord Krishna's cows and they know it! The cows in Vrindavan certainly enjoy a quality of freedom and preferential treatment unknown to any animal.

 

The monkeys also seem to think they own the place though - their quantities are astounding, with as many monkeys as people populating any street. They are amusing to watch as they are expert climbers and scoot down drainpipes like firemen. They go about their own community life as man, but in Vrindavan it is Man that lives in the cages, to keep the monkeys out! They are expert thieves and so smart that they will steal spectacles and shoes, which they might return in exchange for food bribes.

 

Wednesday, 11 December

 

I particularly like the Seva-Kunj and the Nidhi Van gardens, two of twelve gardens known as Rasasthali, or locations where the eternal rasa-lila, or amourous play of Lord Krishna with the gopis (cowherd girls) led by Sri Radha is eternally going on in the Vrindavan forests. The trees from that ancient forest are said to be 5,000 years old, and they look that age! The gardens are infested by monkeys and fearless squirrels.

 

It is said that nobody, not even the monkeys, stay the night when the rasa-lila is taking place, otherwise they will become mad or deformed! Yet the plates with food, drink and betelnut offerings left by the pujari (priest) inside a closed temple in the centre of the Seva-Kunj are always found consumed, and the remnants scattered, the next morning!

 

Friday, 12 December

 

Another popular temple in Vrindavan is the Banke-Bihari temple near the Seva-Kunj gardens. The image of Banke-Bihari was discovered in the Nidhi Van by Swami Haridas, a great devotee of the Lord. Every year, Swami Haridas Sammelan is organised in his honour, in which all renowned musicians of India take part.

 

The Sri Krishna-Balarama Temple was built by the International Society for Krishna Consciousness (ISKCON), which is mainly responsible for the immense number of Westerners adopting the spiritual path of Gaudya-Vaishnavism. Other international groups, such as the Sri Chaitanya Saraswat Math, also attract a portion of the large number of sari- and dhoti-clad Westerners moving around Vrindavan. The ISKCON temple is in on the outskirts of town and is one of the most majestic temples in Vrindavan today, parts of which are built in pure white marble.

 

Saturday, 15 December

 

I take a twenty-minute boat ride on the Jamuna with a modern Indian couple from Delhi. I look at the ghats and observe the pilgrims making their way along this part of Parikrama Marg. I feel a fondness creeping up. Around India I have often seen Indians and Westerners alike wearing a t-shirt with the letters printed: I Lost my Heart in Vrindavan. I have to say I understand that deeply now. The air is so divine. There is no dark side to Vrindavan that I can see!

 

For more information visit: http://mathuravrindavan.com/

 

Episode 24 of Melanie Drury's diary is due on 31 December.

 

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