Mannarsala, Haven of snakes, Haven of divinity!

May 23, 2005

Dear Sarpabhakthas,

Taking a cue from our member Iam posting on this temple called Mannarsala in Kerala.(allepy)

In the earlier times of Kerala every individual was supposed to worship serpents and set aside one area in their home for a serpent grove. This grove should be at least one fourth of the compound, and should be placed in the southeast or southwest corner. Today not every house has one but they can still be found.

Mannarsala may be translated as the place where the soil has cooled down. The place is said to have connection with the Khandiva episode of the Mahabharta epic. A fire had broken out in the forest and led to the death of the serpent folk. The survivors fled for their lives and found a cool place which was unaffected by the fire. This place was Mannarsala, which became the haven of the serpents.

Mannarsala, situated to the north-west of Sri.Subramanyaswamy temple, Haripad, is the seat of the famous temple of Nagaraja (God of Serpents), the largest of its kind in Kerala . Built in a grove the temple is reputed for having 30,000 images of snake-Gods.

On the day of Ayilliam asterism(aaslesha nakshatra) in the months of Kanni and Thulam (September and October), all the serpent idols in the grove and the temple are taken in procession to the illam (family connected with the temple) where the offerings of Nurum Palum (rice flour and milk), Kuruthi (a red liquid made of turmeric and lime) and cooked rice are made. The oldest female member of the family carries the idol of the Nagaraja and the procession is conducted with great pomp and rejoicing.It is said even Ganapathy rejoices in the celebrations.

Kerala is a natural habitat of a variety of snakes. A dread of snakes could have perhaps contributed to serpent worship. Snake idols are housed in the 'Sarpakkavu' or groves where the natural vegetation is kept undisturbed. Snakes are believed to have powers to curse a man who kills them and cause misfortunes and diseases, especially of the skin. There are two namboothiri houses (Pambummekkattu and Mannarsala) famed for worshipping the snakes and which specialise in treatment of illnesses caused by serpent ire. With the exploding human population, snakes are increasingly going rare. Snake charmers, who make the cobra dance to the movement of their 'Makudi' (modified flute), are becoming an extinct tribe.In ancient times, there were native doctors who specialised in treating snakebites. The belief is that they were able to foresee a snakebite victim being brought to them and

upon their arrival, predict the cause of the poisoning. They were also credited with the power to lure the very snake, which bit a person and command it to suck its own venom from the wound. Certain stones and herbs were used in snakebite treatment.