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Cheese in the Raw: The Naked Truth

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Cheese in the Raw: The Naked Truth

http://www.projecttruffle.com/truffledcontent/cheeseintheraw.cfm

 

By Richard Tarlov

 

If regulators in the European Union and the U.S. get their way, dairy

farmers will soon be required to produce all cheese from pasteurized milk.

This controversy has sparked a lively debate amongst consumers, farmers,

retailers, regulators and gourmets. Critics of raw milk cheese argue

against the safety of raw milk cheeses, but the evidence is far from

conclusive. And there are other important issues at stake - not least of

which are the consumer's right to a better tasting product, and the rights

of small producers to make traditional cheeses in the face of a disturbing

trend toward cultural homogenization.

 

But first, let's define what we mean by " raw milk. " The term " raw " is

technical, meaning unpasteurized. It is not a pejorative implying

insufficient, or unfit for consumption, the way " raw meat " does, for

instance. Think " raw vegetables " : wholesome, complete, all natural, and

minimally processed.

 

In the E.U. and North America, well-run dairies optimize farm practices to

assure a clean chain of production. This chain includes uncontaminated

feed, healthy animals, an immaculate milking parlor and spotless storage

tanks. Farmers are required to measure bacterial counts, and government

inspections are rigorous. The result is that the overwhelming majority of

the raw milk, from all animal sources - cows, sheep, goats - is clean,

healthy, and ready to make into cheese.

 

To further lower any risk to humans, dairy regulations provide an extra

protection: cheese made of raw milk must be aged at a cold temperature for

a period of sixty days, which inhibits the growth of pathogenic bacteria.

European raw milk cheeses are also allowed under this rule, which is why

shoppers are often confused when they see a cheese labeled " raw milk " in

their local specialty food store.

 

Most tasters find cheeses made from raw milk considerably fuller in flavor.

This is because the cheese contains microflora-living, microscopic

organisms-that contribute complexity and depth to the taste and aroma of

the finished cheese. In contrast, most factory cheese for mass consumption

strives for the opposite: simplicity and shallow predictability. For these

products, pasteurization is a requirement.

 

So flavor is an issue - but what about the health risks? It turns out that

in the small number of cheese-related pathogenic outbreaks in recent

decades, pasteurization either would not have helped, or evidence is

inconclusive that it would have helped. Pasteurized cheeses have been

linked to illnesses more frequently than raw milk cheeses. And exhaustive

studies show that the incidence of raw milk cheese illness over the past

few decades is practically non-existent.

 

So while pasteurization is certainly one of the greatest advances ever to

human welfare, it is speciously believed to be the one-word solution to the

complex, but relatively small problem of dairy safety. Pasteurization was

imposed when factories, not farms, began making cheese, and when milk

needed to be trucked long distances to the factories.

 

Conversely, the newest dairy animal research focuses on the healthful

micronutrients from grazing which are preserved in raw milk, pass into the

cheese process, and are ingested by us. The wonderfully diverse microflora

in raw milk products has been shown to contribute valuable health benefits

to humans. In fact, unpasteurized milk leaves intact the naturally

competitive microbiological environment where beneficial bacteria win out

over the pathogens.

 

We are in a period of food-processing revision, where old practices

designed to increase production are now understood to create wide-ranging

health and ecological problems. " Organic " is a standard that informs

consumers of how their food was raised. The new " Free Farmed " seal, the

first animal-welfare label to be overseen by the USDA, informs consumers

that farm animals are treated humanely. The food irradiation controversy

highlights consumers' concern about their food integrity.

 

Thus, the argument over raw milk cheese is reduced to this: the cost to

flavor and product authenticity is enormous, while the contribution of

pasteurization is small, perhaps even questionable. Is this a reasonable

trade-off?

 

We think not. Our society has learned a lot about the failures of oil-based

chemical farming and mass-produced livestock raised in cages. And we now

have choices. We do not need to repeat our mistakes with a blanket

requirement for pasteurized milk cheese. We believe the overwhelming

majority of raw milk cheeses are safe, flavorful, pleasurable, and true to

tradition. Mandatory pasteurization would eliminate many of the great

cheeses and their producers. And who want to live in a world without

Parmigiano, Cantal, Gruyere, and the great English Cheddars?

 

 

If you would like to maintain your right to chose and buy raw milk cheese,

visit the American Cheese Society's Cheese for Choice Coalition petition

and add your name to the campaign: http://www.cheesesociety.org

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Hi, David.

 

Know what I say? I say, to those who would make it law that all

cheese must be made from pasteurized milk:

 

IT AINT NONE O' YOUR BUSINESS TO DO THAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I would gladly sign the petition, David, but the link did not take me

to a page on which to sign. It took me to their web site, and I saw

no place to access the petition, and I have no time to join yet

another group.

 

Is there any way I can just go to a link to sign?

 

Thanks,

 

Elliot

, David Elfstrom

<listbox@e...> wrote:

> Cheese in the Raw: The Naked Truth

> http://www.projecttruffle.com/truffledcontent/cheeseintheraw.cfm

>

> By Richard Tarlov

>

> If regulators in the European Union and the U.S. get their way,

dairy

> farmers will soon be required to produce all cheese from

pasteurized milk.

> This controversy has sparked a lively debate amongst consumers,

farmers,

> retailers, regulators and gourmets. Critics of raw milk cheese

argue

> against the safety of raw milk cheeses, but the evidence is far

from

> conclusive. And there are other important issues at stake - not

least of

> which are the consumer's right to a better tasting product, and the

rights

> of small producers to make traditional cheeses in the face of a

disturbing

> trend toward cultural homogenization.

>

> But first, let's define what we mean by " raw milk. " The term " raw "

is

> technical, meaning unpasteurized. It is not a pejorative implying

> insufficient, or unfit for consumption, the way " raw meat " does,

for

> instance. Think " raw vegetables " : wholesome, complete, all natural,

and

> minimally processed.

>

Snip

 

>

> If you would like to maintain your right to chose and buy raw milk

cheese,

> visit the American Cheese Society's Cheese for Choice Coalition

petition

> and add your name to the campaign: http://www.cheesesociety.org

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Guest guest

I couldn't find the link either. The original link was broken; page not

found, so I inserted the link to the whole site as an alternative.

 

Maybe it's not an issue anymore? I haven't heard a peep about it otherwise.

 

David

 

breathedeepnow said:

> Hi, David.

>

> Know what I say? I say, to those who would make it law that all

> cheese must be made from pasteurized milk:

>

> IT AINT NONE O' YOUR BUSINESS TO DO THAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

>

> I would gladly sign the petition, David, but the link did not take me

> to a page on which to sign. It took me to their web site, and I saw

> no place to access the petition, and I have no time to join yet

> another group.

>

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