Guest guest Posted April 21, 2010 Report Share Posted April 21, 2010 Great!!!! I'm Bryan, Father of one and a blacksmith, wildcrafter, chronic gardener, wood worker, roofer and stucco man. My wife Kelly likes to cook, make crafty little things, plant seeds and hike in the woods. My one and a half y/o daughter Zea loves to hide other peoples possessions, tend the dirt, plant seeds, play with the rabbit and devour Basil plants. You'll find a lot in common with the folks here on Herbal Remedies. :-) Please do contribute any knowledge you have!!!!!!! Does anyone know how to make 100% Organic Soap? Does anyone know how to make Vinegar? Does anyone have a great Raw recipe? How do you use / cook with your gathered edibles. ~B On 4/20/2010 3:28 PM, Jennifer wrote: Hi Everyone, I'm a mom of four living in PA. We homeschool and we garden. One of the things we do is have the children maintain an herb garden. Next year for our oldest, he will be making soap from the dried hetbs. Our younger son is maintaining an herbal tea garden. As for me, I enjoy the medicinal value of herbs. I also love wild gathering. I hope to learn alot here as well as contribute ) Thanks for having me! Jennifer in PA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 21, 2010 Report Share Posted April 21, 2010 Bryan, I make soap. Though at this time I do not make mine organic (it is very expensive, and the market cannot bear the price I'd have to charge). The preservative I use is not 100% natural but it is the most natural I can find and I'm required by law to use one. Sodium and Potassium Hydroxide is made through a chemical process. However there is another way to do this, with wood ashes and rain. I've not tried it, as it is dangerous and needs to be guarded against animals and children. Do you raise animals? If you do, when you slaughter them do you render the tallow/fat? That is how soap was originally made, with the sodium hydroxide/water and tallow/fats. I use botanical oils, and mostly essential oils. Though for selling I do use fragrance oils for some of my products (give the customer what they want = being able to pay the rent). I always try to steer the customers to the products without fragrance oils. Now I can explain the process of making soap but with this word of caution! If you try making soaps yourself, you MUST research/read as much as you can before you start. There are certain things you can/cannot do, the safety precautions are imperative to follow, there is not much worse then lye burns (I know by personal experience). Pam On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 4:40 PM, Bryan Shillington <bryan wrote: Great!!!! I'm Bryan, Father of one and a blacksmith, wildcrafter, chronic gardener, wood worker, roofer and stucco man. My wife Kelly likes to cook, make crafty little things, plant seeds and hike in the woods. My one and a half y/o daughter Zea loves to hide other peoples possessions, tend the dirt, plant seeds, play with the rabbit and devour Basil plants. You'll find a lot in common with the folks here on Herbal Remedies. :-) Please do contribute any knowledge you have!!!!!!!Does anyone know how to make 100% Organic Soap?Does anyone know how to make Vinegar?Does anyone have a great Raw recipe?How do you use / cook with your gathered edibles. ~BOn 4/20/2010 3:28 PM, Jennifer wrote: Hi Everyone,I'm a mom of four living in PA. We homeschool and we garden. One of the things we do is have the children maintain an herb garden. Next year for our oldest, he will be making soap from the dried hetbs. Our younger son is maintaining an herbal tea garden.As for me, I enjoy the medicinal value of herbs. I also love wild gathering. I hope to learn alot here as well as contribute )Thanks for having me! Jennifer in PA -- Pamela TandStambry's Crescent Moon Soap Companystambrys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Sounds like Zea is one of the crafty little things your wife likes to make!! Hi, Kelly! Just kidding! Trina Bryan Shillington <bryanherbal remedies Sent: Wed, April 21, 2010 2:40:39 PM{Herbal Remedies} Teach HR something Great!!!! I'm Bryan, Father of one and a blacksmith, wildcrafter, chronic gardener, wood worker, roofer and stucco man. My wife Kelly likes to cook, make crafty little things, plant seeds and hike in the woods.My one and a half y/o daughter Zea loves to hide other peoples possessions, tend the dirt, plant seeds, play with the rabbit and devour Basil plants. You'll find a lot in common with the folks here on Herbal Remedies. :-) Please do contribute any knowledge you have!!!!!!!Does anyone know how to make 100% Organic Soap?Does anyone know how to make Vinegar?Does anyone have a great Raw recipe?How do you use / cook with your gathered edibles. ~BOn 4/20/2010 3:28 PM, Jennifer wrote: Hi Everyone,I'm a mom of four living in PA. We homeschool and we garden. One of the things we do is have the children maintain an herb garden. Next year for our oldest, he will be making soap from the dried hetbs.Our younger son is maintaining an herbal tea garden.As for me, I enjoy the medicinal value of herbs. I also love wild gathering. I hope to learn alot here as well as contribute )Thanks for having me!Jennifer in PA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Lol... How did she do that???? :-) Who knows how to make Organic Tooth Paste??? Does anyone know how to make 100% Organic Soap? Does anyone know how to make Vinegar? Does anyone have a great Raw recipe? How do you use / cook with your gathered edibles. Don't be shy, Tell us all about it. ~B On 4/22/2010 4:26 AM, Trina wrote: Sounds like Zea is one of the crafty little things your wife likes to make!! Hi, Kelly! Just kidding! Trina Bryan Shillington <bryan (AT) academyofnaturalhealing (DOT) com> herbal remedies Wed, April 21, 2010 2:40:39 PM {Herbal Remedies} Teach HR something Great!!!! I'm Bryan, Father of one and a blacksmith, wildcrafter, chronic gardener, wood worker, roofer and stucco man. My wife Kelly likes to cook, make crafty little things, plant seeds and hike in the woods. My one and a half y/o daughter Zea loves to hide other peoples possessions, tend the dirt, plant seeds, play with the rabbit and devour Basil plants. You'll find a lot in common with the folks here on Herbal Remedies. :-) Please do contribute any knowledge you have!!!!!!! Does anyone know how to make 100% Organic Soap? Does anyone know how to make Vinegar? Does anyone have a great Raw recipe? How do you use / cook with your gathered edibles. ~B On 4/20/2010 3:28 PM, Jennifer wrote: Hi Everyone, I'm a mom of four living in PA. We homeschool and we garden. One of the things we do is have the children maintain an herb garden. Next year for our oldest, he will be making soap from the dried hetbs. Our younger son is maintaining an herbal tea garden. As for me, I enjoy the medicinal value of herbs. I also love wild gathering. I hope to learn alot here as well as contribute ) Thanks for having me! Jennifer in PA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 She took a lot of work, but the finished product is perfect!!! ;-) Kelly Kelly Shillington 888-898-9660 Smoky Mountain Trading Post Organic Solutions On 4/22/2010 12:06 PM, Bryan Shillington wrote: Lol... How did she do that???? :-) Who knows how to make Organic Tooth Paste??? Does anyone know how to make 100% Organic Soap? Does anyone know how to make Vinegar? Does anyone have a great Raw recipe? How do you use / cook with your gathered edibles. Don't be shy, Tell us all about it. ~B On 4/22/2010 4:26 AM, Trina wrote: Sounds like Zea is one of the crafty little things your wife likes to make!! Hi, Kelly! Just kidding! Trina Bryan Shillington <bryan (AT) academyofnaturalhealing (DOT) com> herbal remedies Wed, April 21, 2010 2:40:39 PM {Herbal Remedies} Teach HR something Great!!!! I'm Bryan, Father of one and a blacksmith, wildcrafter, chronic gardener, wood worker, roofer and stucco man. My wife Kelly likes to cook, make crafty little things, plant seeds and hike in the woods. My one and a half y/o daughter Zea loves to hide other peoples possessions, tend the dirt, plant seeds, play with the rabbit and devour Basil plants. You'll find a lot in common with the folks here on Herbal Remedies. :-) Please do contribute any knowledge you have!!!!!!! Does anyone know how to make 100% Organic Soap? Does anyone know how to make Vinegar? Does anyone have a great Raw recipe? How do you use / cook with your gathered edibles. ~B On 4/20/2010 3:28 PM, Jennifer wrote: Hi Everyone, I'm a mom of four living in PA. We homeschool and we garden. One of the things we do is have the children maintain an herb garden. Next year for our oldest, he will be making soap from the dried hetbs. Our younger son is maintaining an herbal tea garden. As for me, I enjoy the medicinal value of herbs. I also love wild gathering. I hope to learn alot here as well as contribute ) Thanks for having me! Jennifer in PA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 23, 2010 Report Share Posted April 23, 2010 Bryan, Here are some soap recipes from Noah's Ark and others. I normally use coconut oil instead of tallow or animal fat. Sometimes i put in a bit of olive oil. I suggest you go to Elaine White's website and read about how to make soap there. She also has many recipes in her own website. I would say it is a must to read Elaine's instructions. Melly ============ Soap Recipes Page 2 Recipe Index This Page Goat's Milk Hand-Milled Luxury Soap Laundry Liquid Soap Shampoo Soap Balls Please note that there are a number copyrighted soap recipes here. These people/companies have listed their recipes on the Internet for folks to try for free to help promote their product line. This is fine. What would not be fine is if we didn't give these folks all the credit due their efforts or take these as our own bits of brilliance. The copyrighted materials are duly noted next to each recipe. Since these folks have all been making soap commercially for some time, it would be a good idea to visit their site for additional information, tips or try their product line. They certainly give us good targets to aim for! At the bottom of this page, you'll find quick links to the contributors' websites. ---- NOTE: Red Devil lye has changed the product container size. If your soap recipes have called for a portion of a can, e.g. 2/3 can, rather than a specified amount, and you haven't adjusted for the change, it will cause your soap recipes to fail. The old metal container held 12 ounces. The new plastic container holds 18 ounces, so adjust your recipes accordingly. GOAT'S MILK SOAP Goat Milk Soap Recipe #1 This size recipe can be mixed with the electric mixer. The recipe can be doubled and mixed by hand with a wooden paddle. Have ready an electric mixer and 2 large bowls, stainless or glass (not plastic). Mold: Can use styrofoam or an old cake pan. Have a piece of cloth ready to put on top of the soap and a lid to put on top of the cloth. Can be wrapped with a blanket or towels for insulation. (note from Steve: I use glass casserole dishes well greased with vaseline. Don't try to grease with oil, as it will saponify! Clear plastic candy molds make nice little soaps, too.) Fat: 1.5 lb melted fat (tallow, lard, tallow/lard mixture. Lard can be purchased in 1lb boxes.) Clarified fat, mixed pork and beef. If the fat has burned particles in it or is rancid, it can be clarified by boiling it up in a large pan with about a quart of water and then cooling it and scooping the clean fat off the top. The impurities settle to the bottom in the water. Measure 1/2 can lye (6.5 ounces). Handle with great care. Pour into a paper cup. Make sure the lid is securely back on the lye can. Put 3 cups goat milk in stainless steel mixer bowl. Pour the lye in slowly, running the mixer on low. It will get hot and the milk turns golden as the chemical reaction takes place. Cool until about 850F. May use dairy thermometer. 2 tsp Borax 1 cup baby oatmeal 2 ounces glycerin This can be stirred in while the lye and milk mixture is cooling. It is not necessary to stir the whole time. Watch the temperature of 1.5 pounds of fat. Fat should also be at about 85 or 900F. If you have to heat it to melt, make sure it has cooled again. Run the mixer on low for about 15 minutes, then turn off and let soap rest 5 minutes; run 5 minutes and rest 5 minutes. Repeat this and watch closely because soap will suddenly take consistency and must be poured into the mold. Pour when ready; smooth top surface and keep mold at even temperature for about 24 hours. Cloth can then be peeled off and bars can be cut with a serrated knife or scored and broken. Aging: Age the soap for at least a month, unwrapped. It is better if it ages 2 or 3 months. Failures sometimes occur. Sometimes melting the soap on a very low heat and stirring it some more is all that is necessary to make it set. A few suggestions: I always double the recipe so that I can use the whole can of lye and I can also buy 3 pound block of lard. I mix the lye and milk. Then I put in the block of lard and stir until it has melted. I powder regular oatmeal in the blender. I add it some baking soda and glycerin to the mixture. I stir about 5 or 10 minutes. I stick my thermometer in. It is usually about 1200F. I go about my business for an hour or so and then come back. When it is around 900F I stir for 15 minutes, rest 5, stir 5 and so on. When the spoon can stand up in the middle of the bowl by itself I start spooning it in the molds. ---- Basic Goat Milk and Honey Soap #2 13 cups lard or rendered fat (6.5 pounds) 1 can caustic soda 1/2 cup honey 4 cups goat milk 1 cup hot water Into a large stainless steel or enamel container, dissolve the honey into the hot water. Add the 4 cups goat milk, stir to mix well and slowly add the lye to the milk/honey mixture. This will get very hot. Let it set until it cools down to 750F. This could take an hour or more. When the lye mixture reaches 750F, warm the lard to 850F and pour in a slow steady stream into the lye/milk mixture. Stir constantly until the mixture reaches the consistency of honey. This will take 20 or 30 minutes. When thick as honey pour into prepared molds. Allow to set for 24 to 48 hours. Unmold and cut into bars. Air-dry the soap for 4-5 weeks to cure it. ---- Oatmeal & Honey Goat Milk Soap #3 6 cups goat milk 4 cups lard (2 pounds) 2/3 can Red Devil brand lye 2 cups dry oatmeal (run through the blender) 1/2 cup honey Carefully mix the milk and lye in a stainless container. Allow to cool to 850F. Stir in the refined oatmeal and honey. Mix well. Warm lard to 85 degrees and slowly add to milk mixture. Mix for 15 minutes, let stand 5 minutes. Mix again for 5 minutes. Watch closely as soap takes shape suddenly. When thick like honey pour into prepared molds. Let set 24-48 hours until set. Cut into bars and air cure for 3 to 4 weeks. I made the above one over the weekend. I used my regular recipe (doubled) and added about 3/4 cup of honey. I did it the way I normally do. I left it to set and checked on it about every 15 minutes. The last time I checked it it had almost hardened in the bowl. It did do okay though and I managed to pour it into a large pan. ---- Rhonda's Goat Milk Soap Recipe! Hello! Here is a great recipe for goat milk soap...works every time! 42 oz olive oil 28 oz coconut oil 18 oz palm oil 12.7 oz caustic soda 33 oz goat milk (or buttermilk can be used too ) 1 cup ground oatmeal 4 Tbsp. raw honey fats and oil temp: 920F lye/milk temp: 920F cure for 4-6 weeks Even with no FO added, this soap still smells like honey and oatmeal 4 weeks later. Enjoy! ---- Soap XI -- Goat Milk Soap - Elaine White - copyrighted (by measurements, not weight) 1 cup lard, melted 1 cup coconut oil, melted 1 cup goat (or other) milk 1/4 cup caustic soda granules (not flakes or crystals from other sources) 1/4 cup water Dissolve the lye in the water. Ingredients near 110 to 1200F. Add the lye/water to the fat. Stir in the milk. Tracing time about 1 hour 15 minutes. Leave in molds 2 days Place in freezer 3 hours Remove soap from molds, age 3 weeks. -- Fat to Lye temperature chart: Beef tallow = 1300F Lye = 950F Pure Lard = 850F Lye = 750F 1/2 Beef & 1/2 Lard = 110 degrees Lye = 850F ---- HAND-MILLED SOAP Christmas Spice Bars 4 tsp (4g) ground ginger 1 TBS (6g) ground cinnamon 4 TBS (28g) fresh grated orange peel 10 drops each of cinnamon and neroli fragrance or essential oils 1-1/2 pounds (680g) grated Basic Soap 18 oz (510g) water Melt grated Basic Soap and combine with water as per instructions on the Hand-Milled Soap page. Combine the first 3 ingredients and add to the melted soap. Mix well and then stir in the scents. Mix thoroughly and pour into prepared molds. Finish as per instructions on the Hand-Milled Soap page. Due to the spices added, soap will have a medium brown color. ---- Handmade Oatmeal Soaps Sugar Plum Sundries - copyrighted We have all seen the oatmeal soaps in the store that cost a fortune. Here's how to make your own. Uou can also add other dried material such as cornmeal or pumice for varying abrasive effects. 10oz palm 4oz coconut oil 2oz olive oil 1/4cup regular oatmeal, run through the blender 2oz lye 1 cup distilled water optional scent Mix lye and water and set aside to cool. Melt palm oil and coconut oil together and set aside to cool. In a blender or food processor, mix the olive oil and oatmeal. When the lye reaches 1000F and the fats are 1200F pour lye into fats and stir until it traces. Add the oatmeal mixture, and stir until well mixed. pour the soap into the molds. Allow to sit for 48 hours. Unmold and cut if needed. allow to age for 3 weeks. ---- LAUNDRY SOAP Soap I -- Pure Soap Elaine White This is the only recipe I've discovered that remains scent-free without adding fragrance to the recipe. This soap is a bit too harsh for bath soap, but great for cleaning, washing dishes, delicate laundry, etc. Great lather and no fragrance. 16 oz coconut oil 2.8 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/water temperature about 1200F Estimated tracing time: 1 1/2 hours Time in molds: 48 hours Age: 3 weeks ---- Tony's No Fail (and no weigh) Soap Recipe 2 cans (3 lb) veggie shortening 1 can (12 0z) lye 2 cups water Mix lye and water in enamel pan, OUTSIDE, set aside to cool. Melt shortening, set aside to cool. When both are " hot to the touch (on the outside of the pan) pour lye into shortening. Stir until consistency of mashed potatoes. Pour into prepared mold and let set 24 hours, covered. Uncover, poke it and see if it's firm. If it is, turn it out on newspapers and cut it into bars. Put them someplace safe and let cure for 2-3 weeks, minimum. If its not firm, cover and let sit for another 24 hours, then turn out and cut. MOLD: my favorite is a cardboard box lined with a trash bag. I usually get the ones that soft drinks or beer are shipped in because they're the perfect size for this batch. YIELD: around 24 bars, usually. CONVERTING TO WASHING POWDER: Let it cure out for about a month minimum. Grate it up real fine and there it is. I use around 1/2 of one of those disposable scoops from the commercial detergents. I also add a little dry or liquid bleach and a little borax to help with whitening and odor control. ---- Grandma Herald's Laundry Soap Flakes 1 quart cold water 12 ounce sodium hydroxide 1 cup sugar 1/2 cup borax 2 quarts washed strained grease 1 cup Ammonia scent Pour water in earthenware jar. Pour in lye and stir with wooden stick. Let stand till cold (will take around an hour). Put sugar and borax into an earthenware or enamel vessel and stir well. Pour warm grease into borax mixture and stir well. Add ammonia and stir. Add cooled lye solution to grease mixture. Stir until mixture thickens to fudge consistency. Pour into a mold and let stand overnight. (Use a paper box lined with waxed paper). The soap hardens in a few days. Grate the soap finely into soap flakes and use. Washing fat drippings: Put fat in a large pan with 2 times the amount of water and one sliced potato, washed but not peeled. Boil hard for 30 minutes and strain into another pan. Cool for 24 hours. Cut fat off the top, hold under faucet to wash off scum which forms at the bottom. The fat is now clean and free of salt. Favorite scents: Sassafras, wintergreen, pine. Vegetable dye can be used to color the soap. ---- Laundry Cleaner and Fabric Softener 1 cup soap flakes 1/2 cup borax 1/2 cup vinegar, in rinse cycle You may have to fiddle around with the amounts to fit your machine and type of laundry. This should cut down on rashes from detergent. Fabric softeners are just waxes that melt in the dryer, and evidently they are bad for fabrics, cottons especially (I can't stand the little oily spots they leave all over t-shirts and cotton knits). Bleach your whites about once a month with 1-1/2 c. chlorine bleach, instead of 1/2 c. every wash. ---- Liquid Laundry Soap 2 1/2 gallons distilled water 1 sodium hydroxide, can 7 cups lard, melted 1 cup Ammonia 2 cups borax, or Borateem 3 cups wisk or similar liquid detergent booster Mix in 5 gallon crock or plastic bucket. Add enough water to fill pail. Stir a few minutes till reaches consistency of chicken gravy. Stir a couple times a day until it thickens. It will get like thick lotion and turn white. You can add 1/4 c liquid bluing if you like. Amount to use depends on type of water and size of load (no better directions given). Source: Countryside and Small Stock Journal, Vol 79, No 3: ---- LIQUID SOAP Handmade Liquid Soap - Sugar Plum Sundries - copyrighted In the old days, people made soap using the lye they had leached from wood ashes. This was a long and arduous project, and resulted in a paste-like soap. The reason for the paste consistency was the fact that the lye was Potassium Hydroxide rather than Sodium Hydroxide. Today, you can purchase either variety. The more Potash (Potassium Hydroxide, or KOH) you use, the softer the soap, if you increase the amount of Sodium Hydroxide, your soap will be harder. WARNING! you cannot replace NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide) with KOH in a 1 to 1 swap. It requires approx. 1.4 times as much KOH as NaOH. So, without further ado, here is the recipe 12oz Palm Oil 4oz coconut oil 3.5oz POTASSIUM hydroxide 1 cup water Mix potash lye and water, set aside to cool. melt oils and cool. With lye at 950F and oils at 1150F combine and stir. This is a much warmer reaction than the NaOH soap. You will notice it if you use a big gulp cup and are holding it in your hand. It takes a little longer to trace, about 45-50 minutes. The trace happens suddenly. You can leave this soap in the cup to age if you like, since you will be mixing it with water later (maybe) Age for 2 weeks. If you wish, you may now thin it to a usable consistency. Add water a little at a time, and mix well. A blender works well for this. When you have the thickness you like, Add whatever fragrance you wish to use. This is another good thing about liquid soap, the essential oils need never come in contact with the lye, so the fragrance stays pure. Store it in a bottle or pump jar, and enjoy. ---- Liquid Soap 1 ounce avocado oil 4 ounces coconut oil 11 ounces soybean oil 3.1 ounces lye 8 ounces water Mix as usual per basic instructions Combine water and lye, then added to melted fats. Stir until trace . Allow to sit for a few days until pH tests low. Then slowly stir in extra water to create a liquid soap. ---- Liquid Soap Grate 2 oz (56.7g) of Basic Soap recipe under Bath and Body Bars 8 oz (227g) water Scent or color as desired Gently heat grated soap and water in saucepan. Stir gently until melted. Mix in any additives. Check consistency in a cool water bath. Correct thickness by adding water, thicken by adding more grated soap. Pour into container. Shake every few days to keep smooth. ---- SHAMPOO Soap II -- Pure Soap Mink Oil Shampoo Elaine White 16 oz weight coconut oil 1/2 cup mink oil or (4 T. Castor oil) 2.9 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid oz.) Oil room temperature. Mix and use lye when the water turns clear. Put all ingredients in the blender. Follow the instructions for " Blender Soap " Don't let this soap trace. Process until the mixture is smooth (no oil streaks) and pour it into molds. Leave in molds 2 days Freeze soap 3 hours to release it from the molds. Age 3 weeks. ---- SOAP BALLS Soap balls is a nifty way to get rid of extra soap that won't fill an individual mold or get rid of all those little scrap pieces left over from the shower. There are two easy ways to do this: Method One - For Scraps: Gather together like colors of soap (or you'll end up with an ugly colored ball). Place scraps in a bowl. If they are very small - great, no further work needed. If not, either break them up with a knife or grate the pieces with a vegetable grater. Sprinkle pieces with warm water; let sit 15 minutes to soften. Gather up a handful and squeeze into a ball shape. It will take from two days to two weeks to completely cure in a warm, dry area. Reshape every two days to maintain a round shape. Don't worry about irregularities; they will lend interest to your soap. Method Two - Balls From New Soap: Select your favorite Hand-Milled Soap recipe, but instead of pouring it into individual molds, pour the soap into one large one mold. Place everything in the freezer until it can be cut into blocks and hold its shape. Grate the blocks and allow to dry in a bowl up to a week. While still moist, gather up a handful and squeeze into ball shapes. It will take from two days to two weeks to completely dry in a warm, dry area. Reshape every two days to maintain a round shape. Again, irregularities will make your soap interesting ---Contributor\ s' websites where available: Countryman's Rustic Cuts Soapworks Elaine White's Lather Land Sugar Plum Sundries Tony O'Seland's Cedar Wolf Productions Rainbow Meadow -- ....Go Back to Recipes Page 1 ....Return to Main Soapmaking Page ...Return to Hand-Milled Soap Page herbal remedies , Pamela Tand <stambrys wrote: > > Bryan, > I make soap. Though at this time I do not make mine organic (it is very > expensive, and the market cannot bear the price I'd have to charge). The > preservative I use is not 100% natural but it is the most natural I can find > and I'm required by law to use one. Sodium and Potassium Hydroxide is made > through a chemical process. However there is another way to do this, with > wood ashes and rain. I've not tried it, as it is dangerous and needs to be > guarded against animals and children. > Do you raise animals? If you do, when you slaughter them do you render the > tallow/fat? That is how soap was originally made, with the sodium > hydroxide/water and tallow/fats. I use botanical oils, and mostly essential > oils. Though for selling I do use fragrance oils for some of my products > (give the customer what they want = being able to pay the rent). I always > try to steer the customers to the products without fragrance oils. > Now I can explain the process of making soap but with this word of caution! > If you try making soaps yourself, you MUST research/read as much as you can > before you start. There are certain things you can/cannot do, the safety > precautions are imperative to follow, there is not much worse then lye burns > (I know by personal experience). > Pam > > > > On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 4:40 PM, Bryan Shillington < > bryan wrote: > > > > > > > Great!!!! > > I'm Bryan, > > Father of one and a blacksmith, wildcrafter, chronic gardener, wood worker, > > roofer and stucco man. > > My wife Kelly likes to cook, make crafty little things, plant seeds and > > hike in the woods. > > My one and a half y/o daughter Zea loves to hide other peoples possessions, > > tend the dirt, plant seeds, play with the rabbit and devour Basil plants. > > You'll find a lot in common with the folks here on Herbal Remedies. :-) > > Please do contribute any knowledge you have!!!!!!! > > > > Does anyone know how to make 100% Organic Soap? > > Does anyone know how to make Vinegar? > > Does anyone have a great Raw recipe? > > How do you use / cook with your gathered edibles. > > > > ~B > > > > > > On 4/20/2010 3:28 PM, Jennifer wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi Everyone, > > > > I'm a mom of four living in PA. We homeschool and we garden. One of the > > things we do is have the children maintain an herb garden. > > > > Next year for our oldest, he will be making soap from the dried hetbs. > > > > Our younger son is maintaining an herbal tea garden. > > > > As for me, I enjoy the medicinal value of herbs. I also love wild > > gathering. > > > > I hope to learn alot here as well as contribute ) > > > > Thanks for having me! > > > > Jennifer in PA > > > > > > > > > > -- > Pamela Tand > Stambry's Crescent Moon Soap Company > stambrys > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 24, 2010 Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 Since I also make my own soaps, I know that the temperatures on these recipes are way wrong. Most soap recipes are mixed (lye mixture mixed with fat/oils mixture) when they both reach the same exact temperature, usually 100 degrees Farenheit up to 140 degrees Farenheit, but the higher temps are usually reserved for soaps that contain a measurable amount of beeswax. I normally mix my soaps at 100-110 degrees Farenheit. The lye water (or lye milk) will heat up to well over 200 degrees Farenheit and can be cooled by placing a 2 quart Pyrex mixing bowl with spout in a sink with cold water to prevent the milk from burning (if it turns orange it is ruined); ice in the water can be very beneficial and will keep the milk from burning. I have used cows milk the same way as goats milk, though it is not as rich. I always spray my molds (I usually line a box or a disposable chafing pan with parchment paper) with cooking spray such as Pam and I never have had any problems. I've also sprayed plastic containers with cooking spray and the soap releases well. In fact, I just made soap a couple of months back and I used plastic drawer dividers sprayed with cooking spray as my molds and they worked very well (I've used these before). I will post a few a few easy soap recipes later for you to see if you'd like to try. Making soap is not hard, but it is time consuming and you need to babysit it the entire time, which means you should not do this with little ones around who also need babysat. Lori "By preventing a free market in education, a handful of social engineers - backed by the industries that profit from compulsory schooling: teacher colleges, textbook publishers, materials suppliers, et al. - has ensured that most of our children will not have an education, even though they may be thoroughly schooled."– John Taylor Gatto He who cultivates his land will have plenty of food, but from idle pursuits a man has his fill of poverty. Proverbs 28:19 herbal remedies From: tita_melDate: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 19:20:32 +0000{Herbal Remedies} Re: Teach HR something Bryan,Here are some soap recipes from Noah's Ark and others. I normally use coconut oil instead of tallow or animal fat. Sometimes i put in a bit of olive oil. I suggest you go to Elaine White's website and read about how to make soap there. She also has many recipes in her own website. I would say it is a must to read Elaine's instructions.Melly============SoapRecipesPage 2 Recipe Index This PageGoat's MilkHand-Milled Luxury SoapLaundryLiquid SoapShampooSoap BallsPlease note that there are a number copyrighted soap recipes here. These people/companies have listed their recipes on the Internet for folks to try for free to help promote their product line. This is fine. What would not be fine is if we didn't give these folks all the credit due their efforts or take these as our own bits of brilliance. The copyrighted materials are duly noted next to each recipe. Since these folks have all been making soap commercially for some time, it would be a good idea to visit their site for additional information, tips or try their product line. They certainly give us good targets to aim for! At the bottom of this page, you'll find quick links to the contributors' websites.-------------------------NOTE: Red Devil lye has changed the product container size. If your soap recipes have called for a portion of a can, e.g. 2/3 can, rather than a specified amount, and you haven't adjusted for the change, it will cause your soap recipes to fail. The old metal container held 12 ounces. The new plastic container holds 18 ounces, so adjust your recipes accordingly. GOAT'S MILK SOAPGoat Milk Soap Recipe #1This size recipe can be mixed with the electric mixer. The recipe can be doubled and mixed by hand with a wooden paddle. Have ready an electric mixer and 2 large bowls, stainless or glass (not plastic).Mold: Can use styrofoam or an old cake pan. Have a piece of cloth ready to put on top of the soap and a lid to put on top of the cloth. Can be wrapped with a blanket or towels for insulation. (note from Steve: I use glass casserole dishes well greased with vaseline. Don't try to grease with oil, as it will saponify! Clear plastic candy molds make nice little soaps, too.)Fat: 1.5 lb melted fat (tallow, lard, tallow/lard mixture. Lard can be purchased in 1lb boxes.) Clarified fat, mixed pork and beef. If the fat has burned particles in it or is rancid, it can be clarified by boiling it up in a large pan with about a quart of water and then cooling it and scooping the clean fat off the top. The impurities settle to the bottom in the water.Measure 1/2 can lye (6.5 ounces). Handle with great care. Pour into a paper cup. Make sure the lid is securely back on the lye can. Put 3 cups goat milk in stainless steel mixer bowl. Pour the lye in slowly, running the mixer on low. It will get hot and the milk turns golden as the chemical reaction takes place. Cool until about 850F. May use dairy thermometer.2 tsp Borax1 cup baby oatmeal2 ounces glycerinThis can be stirred in while the lye and milk mixture is cooling. It is not necessary to stir the whole time. Watch the temperature of 1.5 pounds of fat. Fat should also be at about 85 or 900F. If you have to heat it to melt, make sure it has cooled again. Run the mixer on low for about 15 minutes, then turn off and let soap rest 5 minutes; run 5 minutes and rest 5 minutes. Repeat this and watch closely because soap will suddenly take consistency and must be poured into the mold. Pour when ready; smooth top surface and keep mold at even temperature for about 24 hours. Cloth can then be peeled off and bars can be cut with a serrated knife or scored and broken.Aging: Age the soap for at least a month, unwrapped. It is better if it ages 2 or 3 months. Failures sometimes occur. Sometimes melting the soap on a very low heat and stirring it some more is all that is necessary to make it set.A few suggestions: I always double the recipe so that I can use the whole can of lye and I can also buy 3 pound block of lard. I mix the lye and milk. Then I put in the block of lard and stir until it has melted. I powder regular oatmeal in the blender. I add it some baking soda and glycerin to the mixture. I stir about 5 or 10 minutes. I stick my thermometer in. It is usually about 1200F. I go about my business for an hour or so and then come back. When it is around 900F I stir for 15 minutes, rest 5, stir 5 and so on. When the spoon can stand up in the middle of the bowl by itself I start spooning it in the molds.-------------------------Basic Goat Milk and Honey Soap #213 cups lard or rendered fat (6.5 pounds)1 can caustic soda1/2 cup honey4 cups goat milk1 cup hot waterInto a large stainless steel or enamel container, dissolve the honey into the hot water. Add the 4 cups goat milk, stir to mix well and slowly add the lye to the milk/honey mixture. This will get very hot. Let it set until it cools down to 750F. This could take an hour or more. When the lye mixture reaches 750F, warm the lard to 850F and pour in a slow steady stream into the lye/milk mixture. Stir constantly until the mixture reaches the consistency of honey. This will take 20 or 30 minutes.When thick as honey pour into prepared molds. Allow to set for 24 to 48 hours. Unmold and cut into bars. Air-dry the soap for 4-5 weeks to cure it.-------------------------Oatmeal & Honey Goat Milk Soap #36 cups goat milk4 cups lard (2 pounds)2/3 can Red Devil brand lye2 cups dry oatmeal (run through the blender)1/2 cup honeyCarefully mix the milk and lye in a stainless container. Allow to cool to 850F. Stir in the refined oatmeal and honey. Mix well. Warm lard to 85 degrees and slowly add to milk mixture. Mix for 15 minutes, let stand 5 minutes. Mix again for 5 minutes. Watch closely as soap takes shape suddenly. When thick like honey pour into prepared molds. Let set 24-48 hours until set. Cut into bars and air cure for 3 to 4 weeks.I made the above one over the weekend. I used my regular recipe (doubled) and added about 3/4 cup of honey. I did it the way I normally do. I left it to set and checked on it about every 15 minutes. The last time I checked it it had almost hardened in the bowl. It did do okay though and I managed to pour it into a large pan.-------------------------Rhonda's Goat Milk Soap Recipe!Hello! Here is a great recipe for goat milk soap...works every time!42 oz olive oil28 oz coconut oil18 oz palm oil12.7 oz caustic soda33 oz goat milk (or buttermilk can be used too )1 cup ground oatmeal4 Tbsp. raw honeyfats and oil temp: 920Flye/milk temp: 920Fcure for 4-6 weeksEven with no FO added, this soap still smells like honey and oatmeal 4 weeks later. Enjoy!-------------------------Soap XI -- Goat Milk Soap - Elaine White - copyrighted(by measurements, not weight)1 cup lard, melted1 cup coconut oil, melted1 cup goat (or other) milk1/4 cup caustic soda granules (not flakes or crystals from other sources)1/4 cup waterDissolve the lye in the water.Ingredients near 110 to 1200F.Add the lye/water to the fat. Stir in the milk.Tracing time about 1 hour 15 minutes.Leave in molds 2 daysPlace in freezer 3 hoursRemove soap from molds, age 3 weeks.-------------------------Fat to Lye temperature chart:Beef tallow = 1300F Lye = 950FPure Lard = 850F Lye = 750F1/2 Beef & 1/2 Lard = 110 degrees Lye = 850F-------------------------HAND-MILLED SOAPChristmas Spice Bars4 tsp (4g) ground ginger1 TBS (6g) ground cinnamon4 TBS (28g) fresh grated orange peel10 drops each of cinnamon and neroli fragrance or essential oils1-1/2 pounds (680g) grated Basic Soap18 oz (510g) waterMelt grated Basic Soap and combine with water as per instructions on the Hand-Milled Soap page. Combine the first 3 ingredients and add to the melted soap. Mix well and then stir in the scents. Mix thoroughly and pour into prepared molds. Finish as per instructions on the Hand-Milled Soap page. Due to the spices added, soap will have a medium brown color.-------------------------Handmade Oatmeal Soaps Sugar Plum Sundries - copyrightedWe have all seen the oatmeal soaps in the store that cost a fortune. Here's how to make your own. Uou can also add other dried material such as cornmeal or pumice for varying abrasive effects.10oz palm4oz coconut oil2oz olive oil1/4cup regular oatmeal, run through the blender2oz lye1 cup distilled wateroptional scentMix lye and water and set aside to cool. Melt palm oil and coconut oil together and set aside to cool. In a blender or food processor, mix the olive oil and oatmeal. When the lye reaches 1000F and the fats are 1200F pour lye into fats and stir until it traces. Add the oatmeal mixture, and stir until well mixed. pour the soap into the molds. Allow to sit for 48 hours. Unmold and cut if needed. allow to age for 3 weeks.-------------------------LAUNDRY SOAPSoap I -- Pure Soap Elaine WhiteThis is the only recipe I've discovered that remains scent-free without adding fragrance to the recipe. This soap is a bit too harsh for bath soap, but great for cleaning, washing dishes, delicate laundry, etc. Great lather and no fragrance.16 oz coconut oil2.8 oz lye1 cup water (8 fluid ounces)Fat and lye/water temperature about 1200FEstimated tracing time: 1 1/2 hoursTime in molds: 48 hoursAge: 3 weeks-------------------------Tony's No Fail (and no weigh) Soap Recipe2 cans (3 lb) veggie shortening1 can (12 0z) lye2 cups waterMix lye and water in enamel pan, OUTSIDE, set aside to cool. Melt shortening, set aside to cool. When both are "hot to the touch (on the outside of the pan) pour lye into shortening. Stir until consistency of mashed potatoes. Pour into prepared mold and let set 24 hours, covered. Uncover, poke it and see if it's firm. If it is, turn it out on newspapers and cut it into bars. Put them someplace safe and let cure for 2-3 weeks, minimum. If its not firm, cover and let sit for another 24 hours, then turn out and cut.MOLD: my favorite is a cardboard box lined with a trash bag. I usually get the ones that soft drinks or beer are shipped in because they're the perfect size for this batch. YIELD: around 24 bars, usually.CONVERTING TO WASHING POWDER: Let it cure out for about a month minimum. Grate it up real fine and there it is. I use around 1/2 of one of those disposable scoops from the commercial detergents. I also add a little dry or liquid bleach and a little borax to help with whitening and odor control.-------------------------Grandma Herald's Laundry Soap Flakes1 quart cold water12 ounce sodium hydroxide1 cup sugar1/2 cup borax2 quarts washed strained grease1 cup AmmoniascentPour water in earthenware jar. Pour in lye and stir with wooden stick. Let stand till cold (will take around an hour). Put sugar and borax into an earthenware or enamel vessel and stir well. Pour warm grease into borax mixture and stir well. Add ammonia and stir. Add cooled lye solution to grease mixture. Stir until mixture thickens to fudge consistency. Pour into a mold and let stand overnight. (Use a paper box lined with waxed paper). The soap hardens in a few days. Grate the soap finely into soap flakes and use.Washing fat drippings: Put fat in a large pan with 2 times the amount of water and one sliced potato, washed but not peeled. Boil hard for 30 minutes and strain into another pan. Cool for 24 hours. Cut fat off the top, hold under faucet to wash off scum which forms at the bottom. The fat is now clean and free of salt. Favorite scents: Sassafras, wintergreen, pine. Vegetable dye can be used to color the soap.-------------------------Laundry Cleaner and Fabric Softener1 cup soap flakes1/2 cup borax1/2 cup vinegar, in rinse cycleYou may have to fiddle around with the amounts to fit your machine and type of laundry. This should cut down on rashes from detergent. Fabric softeners are just waxes that melt in the dryer, and evidently they are bad for fabrics, cottons especially (I can't stand the little oily spots they leave all over t-shirts and cotton knits).Bleach your whites about once a month with 1-1/2 c. chlorine bleach, instead of 1/2 c. every wash.-------------------------Liquid Laundry Soap2 1/2 gallons distilled water1 sodium hydroxide, can7 cups lard, melted1 cup Ammonia2 cups borax, or Borateem3 cups wisk or similar liquid detergent boosterMix in 5 gallon crock or plastic bucket. Add enough water to fill pail. Stir a few minutes till reaches consistency of chicken gravy. Stir a couple times a day until it thickens. It will get like thick lotion and turn white. You can add 1/4 c liquid bluing if you like. Amount to use depends on type of water and size of load (no better directions given). Source: Countryside and Small Stock Journal, Vol 79, No 3:-------------------------LIQUID SOAPHandmade Liquid Soap - Sugar Plum Sundries - copyrightedIn the old days, people made soap using the lye they had leached from wood ashes. This was a long and arduous project, and resulted in a paste-like soap. The reason for the paste consistency was the fact that the lye was Potassium Hydroxide rather than Sodium Hydroxide. Today, you can purchase either variety. The more Potash (Potassium Hydroxide, or KOH) you use, the softer the soap, if you increase the amount of Sodium Hydroxide, your soap will be harder.WARNING! you cannot replace NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide) with KOH in a 1 to 1 swap. It requires approx. 1.4 times as much KOH as NaOH. So, without further ado, here is the recipe12oz Palm Oil4oz coconut oil3.5oz POTASSIUM hydroxide1 cup waterMix potash lye and water, set aside to cool. melt oils and cool. With lye at 950F and oils at 1150F combine and stir. This is a much warmer reaction than the NaOH soap. You will notice it if you use a big gulp cup and are holding it in your hand. It takes a little longer to trace, about 45-50 minutes. The trace happens suddenly. You can leave this soap in the cup to age if you like, since you will be mixing it with water later (maybe) Age for 2 weeks.If you wish, you may now thin it to a usable consistency. Add water a little at a time, and mix well. A blender works well for this. When you have the thickness you like, Add whatever fragrance you wish to use. This is another good thing about liquid soap, the essential oils need never come in contact with the lye, so the fragrance stays pure. Store it in a bottle or pump jar, and enjoy.-------------------------Liquid Soap1 ounce avocado oil4 ounces coconut oil11 ounces soybean oil3.1 ounces lye8 ounces waterMix as usual per basic instructionsCombine water and lye, then added to melted fats. Stir until trace . Allow to sit for a few days until pH tests low. Then slowly stir in extra water to create a liquid soap.-------------------------Liquid SoapGrate 2 oz (56.7g) of Basic Soap recipe under Bath and Body Bars8 oz (227g) waterScent or color as desiredGently heat grated soap and water in saucepan. Stir gently until melted. Mix in any additives. Check consistency in a cool water bath. Correct thickness by adding water, thicken by adding more grated soap. Pour into container. Shake every few days to keep smooth.-------------------------SHAMPOOSoap II -- Pure Soap Mink Oil Shampoo Elaine White16 oz weight coconut oil1/2 cup mink oil or (4 T. Castor oil)2.9 oz lye1 cup water (8 fluid oz.)Oil room temperature. Mix and use lye when the water turns clear. Put all ingredients in the blender. Follow the instructions for "Blender Soap" Don't let this soap trace. Process until the mixture is smooth (no oil streaks) and pour it into molds.Leave in molds 2 daysFreeze soap 3 hours to release it from the molds.Age 3 weeks.-------------------------SOAP BALLSSoap balls is a nifty way to get rid of extra soap that won't fill an individual mold or get rid of all those little scrap pieces left over from the shower. There are two easy ways to do this:Method One - For Scraps: Gather together like colors of soap (or you'll end up with an ugly colored ball). Place scraps in a bowl. If they are very small - great, no further work needed. If not, either break them up with a knife or grate the pieces with a vegetable grater. Sprinkle pieces with warm water; let sit 15 minutes to soften. Gather up a handful and squeeze into a ball shape. It will take from two days to two weeks to completely cure in a warm, dry area. Reshape every two days to maintain a round shape. Don't worry about irregularities; they will lend interest to your soap.Method Two - Balls From New Soap: Select your favorite Hand-Milled Soap recipe, but instead of pouring it into individual molds, pour the soap into one large one mold. Place everything in the freezer until it can be cut into blocks and hold its shape.Grate the blocks and allow to dry in a bowl up to a week. While still moist, gather up a handful and squeeze into ball shapes. It will take from two days to two weeks to completely dry in a warm, dry area. Reshape every two days to maintain a round shape. Again, irregularities will make your soap interesting-------------------------Contributors' websites where available:Countryman's Rustic Cuts SoapworksElaine White's Lather LandSugar Plum SundriesTony O'Seland's Cedar Wolf ProductionsRainbow Meadow-------------------------...Go Back to Recipes Page 1...Return to Main Soapmaking Page ...Return to Hand-Milled Soap Pageherbal remedies , Pamela Tand <stambrys wrote:>> Bryan,> I make soap. Though at this time I do not make mine organic (it is very> expensive, and the market cannot bear the price I'd have to charge). The> preservative I use is not 100% natural but it is the most natural I can find> and I'm required by law to use one. Sodium and Potassium Hydroxide is made> through a chemical process. However there is another way to do this, with> wood ashes and rain. I've not tried it, as it is dangerous and needs to be> guarded against animals and children.> Do you raise animals? If you do, when you slaughter them do you render the> tallow/fat? That is how soap was originally made, with the sodium> hydroxide/water and tallow/fats. I use botanical oils, and mostly essential> oils. Though for selling I do use fragrance oils for some of my products> (give the customer what they want = being able to pay the rent). I always> try to steer the customers to the products without fragrance oils.> Now I can explain the process of making soap but with this word of caution!> If you try making soaps yourself, you MUST research/read as much as you can> before you start. There are certain things you can/cannot do, the safety> precautions are imperative to follow, there is not much worse then lye burns> (I know by personal experience).> Pam> > > > On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 4:40 PM, Bryan Shillington <> bryan wrote:> > >> >> > Great!!!!> > I'm Bryan,> > Father of one and a blacksmith, wildcrafter, chronic gardener, wood worker,> > roofer and stucco man.> > My wife Kelly likes to cook, make crafty little things, plant seeds and> > hike in the woods.> > My one and a half y/o daughter Zea loves to hide other peoples possessions,> > tend the dirt, plant seeds, play with the rabbit and devour Basil plants.> > You'll find a lot in common with the folks here on Herbal Remedies. :-)> > Please do contribute any knowledge you have!!!!!!!> >> > Does anyone know how to make 100% Organic Soap?> > Does anyone know how to make Vinegar?> > Does anyone have a great Raw recipe?> > How do you use / cook with your gathered edibles.> >> > ~B> >> >> > On 4/20/2010 3:28 PM, Jennifer wrote:> >> >> >> > Hi Everyone,> >> > I'm a mom of four living in PA. We homeschool and we garden. One of the> > things we do is have the children maintain an herb garden.> >> > Next year for our oldest, he will be making soap from the dried hetbs.> >> > Our younger son is maintaining an herbal tea garden.> >> > As for me, I enjoy the medicinal value of herbs. I also love wild> > gathering.> >> > I hope to learn alot here as well as contribute )> >> > Thanks for having me!> >> > Jennifer in PA> >> > > >> > > > -- > Pamela Tand> Stambry's Crescent Moon Soap Company> stambrys Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. Learn more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 24, 2010 Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 Thanks Lori, I look forward to some of those recipes (and even some of the more “advanced” ones). We have skin issues here and tried and proven recipes are what I’m after! Lisa herbal remedies [herbal remedies ] On Behalf Of Lori Smith Friday, April 23, 2010 8:00 PM Bryan Schillington RE: {Herbal Remedies} Re: Teach HR something Since I also make my own soaps, I know that the temperatures on these recipes are way wrong. Most soap recipes are mixed (lye mixture mixed with fat/oils mixture) when they both reach the same exact temperature, usually 100 degrees Farenheit up to 140 degrees Farenheit, but the higher temps are usually reserved for soaps that contain a measurable amount of beeswax. I normally mix my soaps at 100-110 degrees Farenheit. The lye water (or lye milk) will heat up to well over 200 degrees Farenheit and can be cooled by placing a 2 quart Pyrex mixing bowl with spout in a sink with cold water to prevent the milk from burning (if it turns orange it is ruined); ice in the water can be very beneficial and will keep the milk from burning. I have used cows milk the same way as goats milk, though it is not as rich. I always spray my molds (I usually line a box or a disposable chafing pan with parchment paper) with cooking spray such as Pam and I never have had any problems. I've also sprayed plastic containers with cooking spray and the soap releases well. In fact, I just made soap a couple of months back and I used plastic drawer dividers sprayed with cooking spray as my molds and they worked very well (I've used these before). I will post a few a few easy soap recipes later for you to see if you'd like to try. Making soap is not hard, but it is time consuming and you need to babysit it the entire time, which means you should not do this with little ones around who also need babysat. Lori " By preventing a free market in education, a handful of social engineers - backed by the industries that profit from compulsory schooling: teacher colleges, textbook publishers, materials suppliers, et al. - has ensured that most of our children will not have an education, even though they may be thoroughly schooled. " – John Taylor Gatto He who cultivates his land will have plenty of food, but from idle pursuits a man has his fill of poverty. Proverbs 28:19 herbal remedies tita_mel Fri, 23 Apr 2010 19:20:32 +0000 {Herbal Remedies} Re: Teach HR something Bryan, Here are some soap recipes from Noah's Ark and others. I normally use coconut oil instead of tallow or animal fat. Sometimes i put in a bit of olive oil. I suggest you go to Elaine White's website and read about how to make soap there. She also has many recipes in her own website. I would say it is a must to read Elaine's instructions. Melly ============ Soap Recipes Page 2 Recipe Index This Page Goat's Milk Hand-Milled Luxury Soap Laundry Liquid Soap Shampoo Soap Balls Please note that there are a number copyrighted soap recipes here. These people/companies have listed their recipes on the Internet for folks to try for free to help promote their product line. This is fine. What would not be fine is if we didn't give these folks all the credit due their efforts or take these as our own bits of brilliance. The copyrighted materials are duly noted next to each recipe. Since these folks have all been making soap commercially for some time, it would be a good idea to visit their site for additional information, tips or try their product line. They certainly give us good targets to aim for! At the bottom of this page, you'll find quick links to the contributors' websites. ------------------------- NOTE: Red Devil lye has changed the product container size. If your soap recipes have called for a portion of a can, e.g. 2/3 can, rather than a specified amount, and you haven't adjusted for the change, it will cause your soap recipes to fail. The old metal container held 12 ounces. The new plastic container holds 18 ounces, so adjust your recipes accordingly. GOAT'S MILK SOAP Goat Milk Soap Recipe #1 This size recipe can be mixed with the electric mixer. The recipe can be doubled and mixed by hand with a wooden paddle. Have ready an electric mixer and 2 large bowls, stainless or glass (not plastic). Mold: Can use styrofoam or an old cake pan. Have a piece of cloth ready to put on top of the soap and a lid to put on top of the cloth. Can be wrapped with a blanket or towels for insulation. (note from Steve: I use glass casserole dishes well greased with vaseline. Don't try to grease with oil, as it will saponify! Clear plastic candy molds make nice little soaps, too.) Fat: 1.5 lb melted fat (tallow, lard, tallow/lard mixture. Lard can be purchased in 1lb boxes.) Clarified fat, mixed pork and beef. If the fat has burned particles in it or is rancid, it can be clarified by boiling it up in a large pan with about a quart of water and then cooling it and scooping the clean fat off the top. The impurities settle to the bottom in the water. Measure 1/2 can lye (6.5 ounces). Handle with great care. Pour into a paper cup. Make sure the lid is securely back on the lye can. Put 3 cups goat milk in stainless steel mixer bowl. Pour the lye in slowly, running the mixer on low. It will get hot and the milk turns golden as the chemical reaction takes place. Cool until about 850F. May use dairy thermometer. 2 tsp Borax 1 cup baby oatmeal 2 ounces glycerin This can be stirred in while the lye and milk mixture is cooling. It is not necessary to stir the whole time. Watch the temperature of 1.5 pounds of fat. Fat should also be at about 85 or 900F. If you have to heat it to melt, make sure it has cooled again. Run the mixer on low for about 15 minutes, then turn off and let soap rest 5 minutes; run 5 minutes and rest 5 minutes. Repeat this and watch closely because soap will suddenly take consistency and must be poured into the mold. Pour when ready; smooth top surface and keep mold at even temperature for about 24 hours. Cloth can then be peeled off and bars can be cut with a serrated knife or scored and broken. Aging: Age the soap for at least a month, unwrapped. It is better if it ages 2 or 3 months. Failures sometimes occur. Sometimes melting the soap on a very low heat and stirring it some more is all that is necessary to make it set. A few suggestions: I always double the recipe so that I can use the whole can of lye and I can also buy 3 pound block of lard. I mix the lye and milk. Then I put in the block of lard and stir until it has melted. I powder regular oatmeal in the blender. I add it some baking soda and glycerin to the mixture. I stir about 5 or 10 minutes. I stick my thermometer in. It is usually about 1200F. I go about my business for an hour or so and then come back. When it is around 900F I stir for 15 minutes, rest 5, stir 5 and so on. When the spoon can stand up in the middle of the bowl by itself I start spooning it in the molds. ------------------------- Basic Goat Milk and Honey Soap #2 13 cups lard or rendered fat (6.5 pounds) 1 can caustic soda 1/2 cup honey 4 cups goat milk 1 cup hot water Into a large stainless steel or enamel container, dissolve the honey into the hot water. Add the 4 cups goat milk, stir to mix well and slowly add the lye to the milk/honey mixture. This will get very hot. Let it set until it cools down to 750F. This could take an hour or more. When the lye mixture reaches 750F, warm the lard to 850F and pour in a slow steady stream into the lye/milk mixture. Stir constantly until the mixture reaches the consistency of honey. This will take 20 or 30 minutes. When thick as honey pour into prepared molds. Allow to set for 24 to 48 hours. Unmold and cut into bars. Air-dry the soap for 4-5 weeks to cure it. ------------------------- Oatmeal & Honey Goat Milk Soap #3 6 cups goat milk 4 cups lard (2 pounds) 2/3 can Red Devil brand lye 2 cups dry oatmeal (run through the blender) 1/2 cup honey Carefully mix the milk and lye in a stainless container. Allow to cool to 850F. Stir in the refined oatmeal and honey. Mix well. Warm lard to 85 degrees and slowly add to milk mixture. Mix for 15 minutes, let stand 5 minutes. Mix again for 5 minutes. Watch closely as soap takes shape suddenly. When thick like honey pour into prepared molds. Let set 24-48 hours until set. Cut into bars and air cure for 3 to 4 weeks. I made the above one over the weekend. I used my regular recipe (doubled) and added about 3/4 cup of honey. I did it the way I normally do. I left it to set and checked on it about every 15 minutes. The last time I checked it it had almost hardened in the bowl. It did do okay though and I managed to pour it into a large pan. ------------------------- Rhonda's Goat Milk Soap Recipe! Hello! Here is a great recipe for goat milk soap...works every time! 42 oz olive oil 28 oz coconut oil 18 oz palm oil 12.7 oz caustic soda 33 oz goat milk (or buttermilk can be used too ) 1 cup ground oatmeal 4 Tbsp. raw honey fats and oil temp: 920F lye/milk temp: 920F cure for 4-6 weeks Even with no FO added, this soap still smells like honey and oatmeal 4 weeks later. Enjoy! ------------------------- Soap XI -- Goat Milk Soap - Elaine White - copyrighted (by measurements, not weight) 1 cup lard, melted 1 cup coconut oil, melted 1 cup goat (or other) milk 1/4 cup caustic soda granules (not flakes or crystals from other sources) 1/4 cup water Dissolve the lye in the water. Ingredients near 110 to 1200F. Add the lye/water to the fat. Stir in the milk. Tracing time about 1 hour 15 minutes. Leave in molds 2 days Place in freezer 3 hours Remove soap from molds, age 3 weeks. ------------------------- Fat to Lye temperature chart: Beef tallow = 1300F Lye = 950F Pure Lard = 850F Lye = 750F 1/2 Beef & 1/2 Lard = 110 degrees Lye = 850F ------------------------- HAND-MILLED SOAP Christmas Spice Bars 4 tsp (4g) ground ginger 1 TBS (6g) ground cinnamon 4 TBS (28g) fresh grated orange peel 10 drops each of cinnamon and neroli fragrance or essential oils 1-1/2 pounds (680g) grated Basic Soap 18 oz (510g) water Melt grated Basic Soap and combine with water as per instructions on the Hand-Milled Soap page. Combine the first 3 ingredients and add to the melted soap. Mix well and then stir in the scents. Mix thoroughly and pour into prepared molds. Finish as per instructions on the Hand-Milled Soap page. Due to the spices added, soap will have a medium brown color. ------------------------- Handmade Oatmeal Soaps Sugar Plum Sundries - copyrighted We have all seen the oatmeal soaps in the store that cost a fortune. Here's how to make your own. Uou can also add other dried material such as cornmeal or pumice for varying abrasive effects. 10oz palm 4oz coconut oil 2oz olive oil 1/4cup regular oatmeal, run through the blender 2oz lye 1 cup distilled water optional scent Mix lye and water and set aside to cool. Melt palm oil and coconut oil together and set aside to cool. In a blender or food processor, mix the olive oil and oatmeal. When the lye reaches 1000F and the fats are 1200F pour lye into fats and stir until it traces. Add the oatmeal mixture, and stir until well mixed. pour the soap into the molds. Allow to sit for 48 hours. Unmold and cut if needed. allow to age for 3 weeks. ------------------------- LAUNDRY SOAP Soap I -- Pure Soap Elaine White This is the only recipe I've discovered that remains scent-free without adding fragrance to the recipe. This soap is a bit too harsh for bath soap, but great for cleaning, washing dishes, delicate laundry, etc. Great lather and no fragrance. 16 oz coconut oil 2.8 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/water temperature about 1200F Estimated tracing time: 1 1/2 hours Time in molds: 48 hours Age: 3 weeks ------------------------- Tony's No Fail (and no weigh) Soap Recipe 2 cans (3 lb) veggie shortening 1 can (12 0z) lye 2 cups water Mix lye and water in enamel pan, OUTSIDE, set aside to cool. Melt shortening, set aside to cool. When both are " hot to the touch (on the outside of the pan) pour lye into shortening. Stir until consistency of mashed potatoes. Pour into prepared mold and let set 24 hours, covered. Uncover, poke it and see if it's firm. If it is, turn it out on newspapers and cut it into bars. Put them someplace safe and let cure for 2-3 weeks, minimum. If its not firm, cover and let sit for another 24 hours, then turn out and cut. MOLD: my favorite is a cardboard box lined with a trash bag. I usually get the ones that soft drinks or beer are shipped in because they're the perfect size for this batch. YIELD: around 24 bars, usually. CONVERTING TO WASHING POWDER: Let it cure out for about a month minimum. Grate it up real fine and there it is. I use around 1/2 of one of those disposable scoops from the commercial detergents. I also add a little dry or liquid bleach and a little borax to help with whitening and odor control. ------------------------- Grandma Herald's Laundry Soap Flakes 1 quart cold water 12 ounce sodium hydroxide 1 cup sugar 1/2 cup borax 2 quarts washed strained grease 1 cup Ammonia scent Pour water in earthenware jar. Pour in lye and stir with wooden stick. Let stand till cold (will take around an hour). Put sugar and borax into an earthenware or enamel vessel and stir well. Pour warm grease into borax mixture and stir well. Add ammonia and stir. Add cooled lye solution to grease mixture. Stir until mixture thickens to fudge consistency. Pour into a mold and let stand overnight. (Use a paper box lined with waxed paper). The soap hardens in a few days. Grate the soap finely into soap flakes and use. Washing fat drippings: Put fat in a large pan with 2 times the amount of water and one sliced potato, washed but not peeled. Boil hard for 30 minutes and strain into another pan. Cool for 24 hours. Cut fat off the top, hold under faucet to wash off scum which forms at the bottom. The fat is now clean and free of salt. Favorite scents: Sassafras, wintergreen, pine. Vegetable dye can be used to color the soap. ------------------------- Laundry Cleaner and Fabric Softener 1 cup soap flakes 1/2 cup borax 1/2 cup vinegar, in rinse cycle You may have to fiddle around with the amounts to fit your machine and type of laundry. This should cut down on rashes from detergent. Fabric softeners are just waxes that melt in the dryer, and evidently they are bad for fabrics, cottons especially (I can't stand the little oily spots they leave all over t-shirts and cotton knits). Bleach your whites about once a month with 1-1/2 c. chlorine bleach, instead of 1/2 c. every wash. ------------------------- Liquid Laundry Soap 2 1/2 gallons distilled water 1 sodium hydroxide, can 7 cups lard, melted 1 cup Ammonia 2 cups borax, or Borateem 3 cups wisk or similar liquid detergent booster Mix in 5 gallon crock or plastic bucket. Add enough water to fill pail. Stir a few minutes till reaches consistency of chicken gravy. Stir a couple times a day until it thickens. It will get like thick lotion and turn white. You can add 1/4 c liquid bluing if you like. Amount to use depends on type of water and size of load (no better directions given). Source: Countryside and Small Stock Journal, Vol 79, No 3: ------------------------- LIQUID SOAP Handmade Liquid Soap - Sugar Plum Sundries - copyrighted In the old days, people made soap using the lye they had leached from wood ashes. This was a long and arduous project, and resulted in a paste-like soap. The reason for the paste consistency was the fact that the lye was Potassium Hydroxide rather than Sodium Hydroxide. Today, you can purchase either variety. The more Potash (Potassium Hydroxide, or KOH) you use, the softer the soap, if you increase the amount of Sodium Hydroxide, your soap will be harder. WARNING! you cannot replace NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide) with KOH in a 1 to 1 swap. It requires approx. 1.4 times as much KOH as NaOH. So, without further ado, here is the recipe 12oz Palm Oil 4oz coconut oil 3.5oz POTASSIUM hydroxide 1 cup water Mix potash lye and water, set aside to cool. melt oils and cool. With lye at 950F and oils at 1150F combine and stir. This is a much warmer reaction than the NaOH soap. You will notice it if you use a big gulp cup and are holding it in your hand. It takes a little longer to trace, about 45-50 minutes. The trace happens suddenly. You can leave this soap in the cup to age if you like, since you will be mixing it with water later (maybe) Age for 2 weeks. If you wish, you may now thin it to a usable consistency. Add water a little at a time, and mix well. A blender works well for this. When you have the thickness you like, Add whatever fragrance you wish to use. This is another good thing about liquid soap, the essential oils need never come in contact with the lye, so the fragrance stays pure. Store it in a bottle or pump jar, and enjoy. ------------------------- Liquid Soap 1 ounce avocado oil 4 ounces coconut oil 11 ounces soybean oil 3.1 ounces lye 8 ounces water Mix as usual per basic instructions Combine water and lye, then added to melted fats. Stir until trace . Allow to sit for a few days until pH tests low. Then slowly stir in extra water to create a liquid soap. ------------------------- Liquid Soap Grate 2 oz (56.7g) of Basic Soap recipe under Bath and Body Bars 8 oz (227g) water Scent or color as desired Gently heat grated soap and water in saucepan. Stir gently until melted. Mix in any additives. Check consistency in a cool water bath. Correct thickness by adding water, thicken by adding more grated soap. Pour into container. Shake every few days to keep smooth. ------------------------- SHAMPOO Soap II -- Pure Soap Mink Oil Shampoo Elaine White 16 oz weight coconut oil 1/2 cup mink oil or (4 T. Castor oil) 2.9 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid oz.) Oil room temperature. Mix and use lye when the water turns clear. Put all ingredients in the blender. Follow the instructions for " Blender Soap " Don't let this soap trace. Process until the mixture is smooth (no oil streaks) and pour it into molds. Leave in molds 2 days Freeze soap 3 hours to release it from the molds. Age 3 weeks. ------------------------- SOAP BALLS Soap balls is a nifty way to get rid of extra soap that won't fill an individual mold or get rid of all those little scrap pieces left over from the shower. There are two easy ways to do this: Method One - For Scraps: Gather together like colors of soap (or you'll end up with an ugly colored ball). Place scraps in a bowl. If they are very small - great, no further work needed. If not, either break them up with a knife or grate the pieces with a vegetable grater. Sprinkle pieces with warm water; let sit 15 minutes to soften. Gather up a handful and squeeze into a ball shape. It will take from two days to two weeks to completely cure in a warm, dry area. Reshape every two days to maintain a round shape. Don't worry about irregularities; they will lend interest to your soap. Method Two - Balls From New Soap: Select your favorite Hand-Milled Soap recipe, but instead of pouring it into individual molds, pour the soap into one large one mold. Place everything in the freezer until it can be cut into blocks and hold its shape. Grate the blocks and allow to dry in a bowl up to a week. While still moist, gather up a handful and squeeze into ball shapes. It will take from two days to two weeks to completely dry in a warm, dry area. Reshape every two days to maintain a round shape. Again, irregularities will make your soap interesting -------------------------Contributors' websites where available: Countryman's Rustic Cuts Soapworks Elaine White's Lather Land Sugar Plum Sundries Tony O'Seland's Cedar Wolf Productions Rainbow Meadow ------------------------- ....Go Back to Recipes Page 1 ....Return to Main Soapmaking Page ...Return to Hand-Milled Soap Page herbal remedies , Pamela Tand <stambrys wrote: > > Bryan, > I make soap. Though at this time I do not make mine organic (it is very > expensive, and the market cannot bear the price I'd have to charge). The > preservative I use is not 100% natural but it is the most natural I can find > and I'm required by law to use one. Sodium and Potassium Hydroxide is made > through a chemical process. However there is another way to do this, with > wood ashes and rain. I've not tried it, as it is dangerous and needs to be > guarded against animals and children. > Do you raise animals? If you do, when you slaughter them do you render the > tallow/fat? That is how soap was originally made, with the sodium > hydroxide/water and tallow/fats. I use botanical oils, and mostly essential > oils. Though for selling I do use fragrance oils for some of my products > (give the customer what they want = being able to pay the rent). I always > try to steer the customers to the products without fragrance oils. > Now I can explain the process of making soap but with this word of caution! > If you try making soaps yourself, you MUST research/read as much as you can > before you start. There are certain things you can/cannot do, the safety > precautions are imperative to follow, there is not much worse then lye burns > (I know by personal experience). > Pam > > > > On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 4:40 PM, Bryan Shillington < > bryan wrote: > > > > > > > Great!!!! > > I'm Bryan, > > Father of one and a blacksmith, wildcrafter, chronic gardener, wood worker, > > roofer and stucco man. > > My wife Kelly likes to cook, make crafty little things, plant seeds and > > hike in the woods. > > My one and a half y/o daughter Zea loves to hide other peoples possessions, > > tend the dirt, plant seeds, play with the rabbit and devour Basil plants. > > You'll find a lot in common with the folks here on Herbal Remedies. :-) > > Please do contribute any knowledge you have!!!!!!! > > > > Does anyone know how to make 100% Organic Soap? > > Does anyone know how to make Vinegar? > > Does anyone have a great Raw recipe? > > How do you use / cook with your gathered edibles. > > > > ~B > > > > > > On 4/20/2010 3:28 PM, Jennifer wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi Everyone, > > > > I'm a mom of four living in PA. We homeschool and we garden. One of the > > things we do is have the children maintain an herb garden. > > > > Next year for our oldest, he will be making soap from the dried hetbs. > > > > Our younger son is maintaining an herbal tea garden. > > > > As for me, I enjoy the medicinal value of herbs. I also love wild > > gathering. > > > > I hope to learn alot here as well as contribute ) > > > > Thanks for having me! > > > > Jennifer in PA > > > > > > > > > > -- > Pamela Tand > Stambry's Crescent Moon Soap Company > stambrys > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. Learn more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 26, 2010 Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 Thank you Melly. This one looks the most natural and has no animal fats. Woo hoo!!! I'm gonna make soap. ~B Rhonda's Goat Milk Soap Recipe! Hello! Here is a great recipe for goat milk soap...works every time! 42 oz olive oil 28 oz coconut oil 18 oz palm oil 12.7 oz caustic soda 33 oz goat milk (or buttermilk can be used too ) 1 cup ground oatmeal 4 Tbsp. raw honey fats and oil temp: 920F lye/milk temp: 920F cure for 4-6 weeks Even with no FO added, this soap still smells like honey and oatmeal 4 weeks later. Enjoy! On 4/23/2010 3:20 PM, tita_mel wrote: Bryan, Here are some soap recipes from Noah's Ark and others. I normally use coconut oil instead of tallow or animal fat. Sometimes i put in a bit of olive oil. I suggest you go to Elaine White's website and read about how to make soap there. She also has many recipes in her own website. I would say it is a must to read Elaine's instructions. Melly ============ Soap Recipes Page 2 Recipe Index This Page Goat's Milk Hand-Milled Luxury Soap Laundry Liquid Soap Shampoo Soap Balls Please note that there are a number copyrighted soap recipes here. These people/companies have listed their recipes on the Internet for folks to try for free to help promote their product line. This is fine. What would not be fine is if we didn't give these folks all the credit due their efforts or take these as our own bits of brilliance. The copyrighted materials are duly noted next to each recipe. Since these folks have all been making soap commercially for some time, it would be a good idea to visit their site for additional information, tips or try their product line. They certainly give us good targets to aim for! At the bottom of this page, you'll find quick links to the contributors' websites. ------------------------- NOTE: Red Devil lye has changed the product container size. If your soap recipes have called for a portion of a can, e.g. 2/3 can, rather than a specified amount, and you haven't adjusted for the change, it will cause your soap recipes to fail. The old metal container held 12 ounces. The new plastic container holds 18 ounces, so adjust your recipes accordingly. GOAT'S MILK SOAP Goat Milk Soap Recipe #1 This size recipe can be mixed with the electric mixer. The recipe can be doubled and mixed by hand with a wooden paddle. Have ready an electric mixer and 2 large bowls, stainless or glass (not plastic). Mold: Can use styrofoam or an old cake pan. Have a piece of cloth ready to put on top of the soap and a lid to put on top of the cloth. Can be wrapped with a blanket or towels for insulation. (note from Steve: I use glass casserole dishes well greased with vaseline. Don't try to grease with oil, as it will saponify! Clear plastic candy molds make nice little soaps, too.) Fat: 1.5 lb melted fat (tallow, lard, tallow/lard mixture. Lard can be purchased in 1lb boxes.) Clarified fat, mixed pork and beef. If the fat has burned particles in it or is rancid, it can be clarified by boiling it up in a large pan with about a quart of water and then cooling it and scooping the clean fat off the top. The impurities settle to the bottom in the water. Measure 1/2 can lye (6.5 ounces). Handle with great care. Pour into a paper cup. Make sure the lid is securely back on the lye can. Put 3 cups goat milk in stainless steel mixer bowl. Pour the lye in slowly, running the mixer on low. It will get hot and the milk turns golden as the chemical reaction takes place. Cool until about 850F. May use dairy thermometer. 2 tsp Borax 1 cup baby oatmeal 2 ounces glycerin This can be stirred in while the lye and milk mixture is cooling. It is not necessary to stir the whole time. Watch the temperature of 1.5 pounds of fat. Fat should also be at about 85 or 900F. If you have to heat it to melt, make sure it has cooled again. Run the mixer on low for about 15 minutes, then turn off and let soap rest 5 minutes; run 5 minutes and rest 5 minutes. Repeat this and watch closely because soap will suddenly take consistency and must be poured into the mold. Pour when ready; smooth top surface and keep mold at even temperature for about 24 hours. Cloth can then be peeled off and bars can be cut with a serrated knife or scored and broken. Aging: Age the soap for at least a month, unwrapped. It is better if it ages 2 or 3 months. Failures sometimes occur. Sometimes melting the soap on a very low heat and stirring it some more is all that is necessary to make it set. A few suggestions: I always double the recipe so that I can use the whole can of lye and I can also buy 3 pound block of lard. I mix the lye and milk. Then I put in the block of lard and stir until it has melted. I powder regular oatmeal in the blender. I add it some baking soda and glycerin to the mixture. I stir about 5 or 10 minutes. I stick my thermometer in. It is usually about 1200F. I go about my business for an hour or so and then come back. When it is around 900F I stir for 15 minutes, rest 5, stir 5 and so on. When the spoon can stand up in the middle of the bowl by itself I start spooning it in the molds. ------------------------- Basic Goat Milk and Honey Soap #2 13 cups lard or rendered fat (6.5 pounds) 1 can caustic soda 1/2 cup honey 4 cups goat milk 1 cup hot water Into a large stainless steel or enamel container, dissolve the honey into the hot water. Add the 4 cups goat milk, stir to mix well and slowly add the lye to the milk/honey mixture. This will get very hot. Let it set until it cools down to 750F. This could take an hour or more. When the lye mixture reaches 750F, warm the lard to 850F and pour in a slow steady stream into the lye/milk mixture. Stir constantly until the mixture reaches the consistency of honey. This will take 20 or 30 minutes. When thick as honey pour into prepared molds. Allow to set for 24 to 48 hours. Unmold and cut into bars. Air-dry the soap for 4-5 weeks to cure it. ------------------------- Oatmeal & Honey Goat Milk Soap #3 6 cups goat milk 4 cups lard (2 pounds) 2/3 can Red Devil brand lye 2 cups dry oatmeal (run through the blender) 1/2 cup honey Carefully mix the milk and lye in a stainless container. Allow to cool to 850F. Stir in the refined oatmeal and honey. Mix well. Warm lard to 85 degrees and slowly add to milk mixture. Mix for 15 minutes, let stand 5 minutes. Mix again for 5 minutes. Watch closely as soap takes shape suddenly. When thick like honey pour into prepared molds. Let set 24-48 hours until set. Cut into bars and air cure for 3 to 4 weeks. I made the above one over the weekend. I used my regular recipe (doubled) and added about 3/4 cup of honey. I did it the way I normally do. I left it to set and checked on it about every 15 minutes. The last time I checked it it had almost hardened in the bowl. It did do okay though and I managed to pour it into a large pan. ------------------------- Rhonda's Goat Milk Soap Recipe! Hello! Here is a great recipe for goat milk soap...works every time! 42 oz olive oil 28 oz coconut oil 18 oz palm oil 12.7 oz caustic soda 33 oz goat milk (or buttermilk can be used too ) 1 cup ground oatmeal 4 Tbsp. raw honey fats and oil temp: 920F lye/milk temp: 920F cure for 4-6 weeks Even with no FO added, this soap still smells like honey and oatmeal 4 weeks later. Enjoy! ------------------------- Soap XI -- Goat Milk Soap - Elaine White - copyrighted (by measurements, not weight) 1 cup lard, melted 1 cup coconut oil, melted 1 cup goat (or other) milk 1/4 cup caustic soda granules (not flakes or crystals from other sources) 1/4 cup water Dissolve the lye in the water. Ingredients near 110 to 1200F. Add the lye/water to the fat. Stir in the milk. Tracing time about 1 hour 15 minutes. Leave in molds 2 days Place in freezer 3 hours Remove soap from molds, age 3 weeks. ------------------------- Fat to Lye temperature chart: Beef tallow = 1300F Lye = 950F Pure Lard = 850F Lye = 750F 1/2 Beef & 1/2 Lard = 110 degrees Lye = 850F ------------------------- HAND-MILLED SOAP Christmas Spice Bars 4 tsp (4g) ground ginger 1 TBS (6g) ground cinnamon 4 TBS (28g) fresh grated orange peel 10 drops each of cinnamon and neroli fragrance or essential oils 1-1/2 pounds (680g) grated Basic Soap 18 oz (510g) water Melt grated Basic Soap and combine with water as per instructions on the Hand-Milled Soap page. Combine the first 3 ingredients and add to the melted soap. Mix well and then stir in the scents. Mix thoroughly and pour into prepared molds. Finish as per instructions on the Hand-Milled Soap page. Due to the spices added, soap will have a medium brown color. ------------------------- Handmade Oatmeal Soaps Sugar Plum Sundries - copyrighted We have all seen the oatmeal soaps in the store that cost a fortune. Here's how to make your own. Uou can also add other dried material such as cornmeal or pumice for varying abrasive effects. 10oz palm 4oz coconut oil 2oz olive oil 1/4cup regular oatmeal, run through the blender 2oz lye 1 cup distilled water optional scent Mix lye and water and set aside to cool. Melt palm oil and coconut oil together and set aside to cool. In a blender or food processor, mix the olive oil and oatmeal. When the lye reaches 1000F and the fats are 1200F pour lye into fats and stir until it traces. Add the oatmeal mixture, and stir until well mixed. pour the soap into the molds. Allow to sit for 48 hours. Unmold and cut if needed. allow to age for 3 weeks. ------------------------- LAUNDRY SOAP Soap I -- Pure Soap Elaine White This is the only recipe I've discovered that remains scent-free without adding fragrance to the recipe. This soap is a bit too harsh for bath soap, but great for cleaning, washing dishes, delicate laundry, etc. Great lather and no fragrance. 16 oz coconut oil 2.8 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/water temperature about 1200F Estimated tracing time: 1 1/2 hours Time in molds: 48 hours Age: 3 weeks ------------------------- Tony's No Fail (and no weigh) Soap Recipe 2 cans (3 lb) veggie shortening 1 can (12 0z) lye 2 cups water Mix lye and water in enamel pan, OUTSIDE, set aside to cool. Melt shortening, set aside to cool. When both are "hot to the touch (on the outside of the pan) pour lye into shortening. Stir until consistency of mashed potatoes. Pour into prepared mold and let set 24 hours, covered. Uncover, poke it and see if it's firm. If it is, turn it out on newspapers and cut it into bars. Put them someplace safe and let cure for 2-3 weeks, minimum. If its not firm, cover and let sit for another 24 hours, then turn out and cut. MOLD: my favorite is a cardboard box lined with a trash bag. I usually get the ones that soft drinks or beer are shipped in because they're the perfect size for this batch. YIELD: around 24 bars, usually. CONVERTING TO WASHING POWDER: Let it cure out for about a month minimum. Grate it up real fine and there it is. I use around 1/2 of one of those disposable scoops from the commercial detergents. I also add a little dry or liquid bleach and a little borax to help with whitening and odor control. ------------------------- Grandma Herald's Laundry Soap Flakes 1 quart cold water 12 ounce sodium hydroxide 1 cup sugar 1/2 cup borax 2 quarts washed strained grease 1 cup Ammonia scent Pour water in earthenware jar. Pour in lye and stir with wooden stick. Let stand till cold (will take around an hour). Put sugar and borax into an earthenware or enamel vessel and stir well. Pour warm grease into borax mixture and stir well. Add ammonia and stir. Add cooled lye solution to grease mixture. Stir until mixture thickens to fudge consistency. Pour into a mold and let stand overnight. (Use a paper box lined with waxed paper). The soap hardens in a few days. Grate the soap finely into soap flakes and use. Washing fat drippings: Put fat in a large pan with 2 times the amount of water and one sliced potato, washed but not peeled. Boil hard for 30 minutes and strain into another pan. Cool for 24 hours. Cut fat off the top, hold under faucet to wash off scum which forms at the bottom. The fat is now clean and free of salt. Favorite scents: Sassafras, wintergreen, pine. Vegetable dye can be used to color the soap. ------------------------- Laundry Cleaner and Fabric Softener 1 cup soap flakes 1/2 cup borax 1/2 cup vinegar, in rinse cycle You may have to fiddle around with the amounts to fit your machine and type of laundry. This should cut down on rashes from detergent. Fabric softeners are just waxes that melt in the dryer, and evidently they are bad for fabrics, cottons especially (I can't stand the little oily spots they leave all over t-shirts and cotton knits). Bleach your whites about once a month with 1-1/2 c. chlorine bleach, instead of 1/2 c. every wash. ------------------------- Liquid Laundry Soap 2 1/2 gallons distilled water 1 sodium hydroxide, can 7 cups lard, melted 1 cup Ammonia 2 cups borax, or Borateem 3 cups wisk or similar liquid detergent booster Mix in 5 gallon crock or plastic bucket. Add enough water to fill pail. Stir a few minutes till reaches consistency of chicken gravy. Stir a couple times a day until it thickens. It will get like thick lotion and turn white. You can add 1/4 c liquid bluing if you like. Amount to use depends on type of water and size of load (no better directions given). Source: Countryside and Small Stock Journal, Vol 79, No 3: ------------------------- LIQUID SOAP Handmade Liquid Soap - Sugar Plum Sundries - copyrighted In the old days, people made soap using the lye they had leached from wood ashes. This was a long and arduous project, and resulted in a paste-like soap. The reason for the paste consistency was the fact that the lye was Potassium Hydroxide rather than Sodium Hydroxide. Today, you can purchase either variety. The more Potash (Potassium Hydroxide, or KOH) you use, the softer the soap, if you increase the amount of Sodium Hydroxide, your soap will be harder. WARNING! you cannot replace NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide) with KOH in a 1 to 1 swap. It requires approx. 1.4 times as much KOH as NaOH. So, without further ado, here is the recipe 12oz Palm Oil 4oz coconut oil 3.5oz POTASSIUM hydroxide 1 cup water Mix potash lye and water, set aside to cool. melt oils and cool. With lye at 950F and oils at 1150F combine and stir. This is a much warmer reaction than the NaOH soap. You will notice it if you use a big gulp cup and are holding it in your hand. It takes a little longer to trace, about 45-50 minutes. The trace happens suddenly. You can leave this soap in the cup to age if you like, since you will be mixing it with water later (maybe) Age for 2 weeks. If you wish, you may now thin it to a usable consistency. Add water a little at a time, and mix well. A blender works well for this. When you have the thickness you like, Add whatever fragrance you wish to use. This is another good thing about liquid soap, the essential oils need never come in contact with the lye, so the fragrance stays pure. Store it in a bottle or pump jar, and enjoy. ------------------------- Liquid Soap 1 ounce avocado oil 4 ounces coconut oil 11 ounces soybean oil 3.1 ounces lye 8 ounces water Mix as usual per basic instructions Combine water and lye, then added to melted fats. Stir until trace . Allow to sit for a few days until pH tests low. Then slowly stir in extra water to create a liquid soap. ------------------------- Liquid Soap Grate 2 oz (56.7g) of Basic Soap recipe under Bath and Body Bars 8 oz (227g) water Scent or color as desired Gently heat grated soap and water in saucepan. Stir gently until melted. Mix in any additives. Check consistency in a cool water bath. Correct thickness by adding water, thicken by adding more grated soap. Pour into container. Shake every few days to keep smooth. ------------------------- SHAMPOO Soap II -- Pure Soap Mink Oil Shampoo Elaine White 16 oz weight coconut oil 1/2 cup mink oil or (4 T. Castor oil) 2.9 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid oz.) Oil room temperature. Mix and use lye when the water turns clear. Put all ingredients in the blender. Follow the instructions for "Blender Soap" Don't let this soap trace. Process until the mixture is smooth (no oil streaks) and pour it into molds. Leave in molds 2 days Freeze soap 3 hours to release it from the molds. Age 3 weeks. ------------------------- SOAP BALLS Soap balls is a nifty way to get rid of extra soap that won't fill an individual mold or get rid of all those little scrap pieces left over from the shower. There are two easy ways to do this: Method One - For Scraps: Gather together like colors of soap (or you'll end up with an ugly colored ball). Place scraps in a bowl. If they are very small - great, no further work needed. If not, either break them up with a knife or grate the pieces with a vegetable grater. Sprinkle pieces with warm water; let sit 15 minutes to soften. Gather up a handful and squeeze into a ball shape. It will take from two days to two weeks to completely cure in a warm, dry area. Reshape every two days to maintain a round shape. Don't worry about irregularities; they will lend interest to your soap. Method Two - Balls From New Soap: Select your favorite Hand-Milled Soap recipe, but instead of pouring it into individual molds, pour the soap into one large one mold. Place everything in the freezer until it can be cut into blocks and hold its shape. Grate the blocks and allow to dry in a bowl up to a week. While still moist, gather up a handful and squeeze into ball shapes. It will take from two days to two weeks to completely dry in a warm, dry area. Reshape every two days to maintain a round shape. Again, irregularities will make your soap interesting -------------------------Contributors' websites where available: Countryman's Rustic Cuts Soapworks Elaine White's Lather Land Sugar Plum Sundries Tony O'Seland's Cedar Wolf Productions Rainbow Meadow ------------------------- ....Go Back to Recipes Page 1 ....Return to Main Soapmaking Page ...Return to Hand-Milled Soap Page herbal remedies , Pamela Tand <stambrys wrote: > > Bryan, > I make soap. Though at this time I do not make mine organic (it is very > expensive, and the market cannot bear the price I'd have to charge). The > preservative I use is not 100% natural but it is the most natural I can find > and I'm required by law to use one. Sodium and Potassium Hydroxide is made > through a chemical process. However there is another way to do this, with > wood ashes and rain. I've not tried it, as it is dangerous and needs to be > guarded against animals and children. > Do you raise animals? If you do, when you slaughter them do you render the > tallow/fat? That is how soap was originally made, with the sodium > hydroxide/water and tallow/fats. I use botanical oils, and mostly essential > oils. Though for selling I do use fragrance oils for some of my products > (give the customer what they want = being able to pay the rent). I always > try to steer the customers to the products without fragrance oils. > Now I can explain the process of making soap but with this word of caution! > If you try making soaps yourself, you MUST research/read as much as you can > before you start. There are certain things you can/cannot do, the safety > precautions are imperative to follow, there is not much worse then lye burns > (I know by personal experience). > Pam > > > > On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 4:40 PM, Bryan Shillington < > bryan wrote: > > > > > > > Great!!!! > > I'm Bryan, > > Father of one and a blacksmith, wildcrafter, chronic gardener, wood worker, > > roofer and stucco man. > > My wife Kelly likes to cook, make crafty little things, plant seeds and > > hike in the woods. > > My one and a half y/o daughter Zea loves to hide other peoples possessions, > > tend the dirt, plant seeds, play with the rabbit and devour Basil plants. > > You'll find a lot in common with the folks here on Herbal Remedies. :-) > > Please do contribute any knowledge you have!!!!!!! > > > > Does anyone know how to make 100% Organic Soap? > > Does anyone know how to make Vinegar? > > Does anyone have a great Raw recipe? > > How do you use / cook with your gathered edibles. > > > > ~B > > > > > > On 4/20/2010 3:28 PM, Jennifer wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi Everyone, > > > > I'm a mom of four living in PA. We homeschool and we garden. One of the > > things we do is have the children maintain an herb garden. > > > > Next year for our oldest, he will be making soap from the dried hetbs. > > > > Our younger son is maintaining an herbal tea garden. > > > > As for me, I enjoy the medicinal value of herbs. I also love wild > > gathering. > > > > I hope to learn alot here as well as contribute ) > > > > Thanks for having me! > > > > Jennifer in PA > > > > > > > > > > -- > Pamela Tand > Stambry's Crescent Moon Soap Company > stambrys > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 26, 2010 Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 ok , so i dont know whats going on and have no clue .. i admitt to that .... but what is caustic soda , and FO ....??? and what about the temperatures 920 F .... thank you gab On 4/26/2010 1:15 PM, Bryan Shillington wrote: Thank you Melly. This one looks the most natural and has no animal fats. Woo hoo!!! I'm gonna make soap. ~B Rhonda's Goat Milk Soap Recipe! Hello! Here is a great recipe for goat milk soap...works every time! 42 oz olive oil 28 oz coconut oil 18 oz palm oil 12.7 oz caustic soda 33 oz goat milk (or buttermilk can be used too ) 1 cup ground oatmeal 4 Tbsp. raw honey fats and oil temp: 920F lye/milk temp: 920F cure for 4-6 weeks Even with no FO added, this soap still smells like honey and oatmeal 4 weeks later. Enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 26, 2010 Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 Thanks for the temperature information. I can't wait to read how you do it. Pictures???? :-) ~B On 4/23/2010 8:00 PM, Lori Smith wrote: Since I also make my own soaps, I know that the temperatures on these recipes are way wrong. Most soap recipes are mixed (lye mixture mixed with fat/oils mixture) when they both reach the same exact temperature, usually 100 degrees Farenheit up to 140 degrees Farenheit, but the higher temps are usually reserved for soaps that contain a measurable amount of beeswax. I normally mix my soaps at 100-110 degrees Farenheit. The lye water (or lye milk) will heat up to well over 200 degrees Farenheit and can be cooled by placing a 2 quart Pyrex mixing bowl with spout in a sink with cold water to prevent the milk from burning (if it turns orange it is ruined); ice in the water can be very beneficial and will keep the milk from burning. I have used cows milk the same way as goats milk, though it is not as rich. I always spray my molds (I usually line a box or a disposable chafing pan with parchment paper) with cooking spray such as Pam and I never have had any problems. I've also sprayed plastic containers with cooking spray and the soap releases well. In fact, I just made soap a couple of months back and I used plastic drawer dividers sprayed with cooking spray as my molds and they worked very well (I've used these before). I will post a few a few easy soap recipes later for you to see if you'd like to try. Making soap is not hard, but it is time consuming and you need to babysit it the entire time, which means you should not do this with little ones around who also need babysat. Lori "By preventing a free market in education, a handful of social engineers - backed by the industries that profit from compulsory schooling: teacher colleges, textbook publishers, materials suppliers, et al. - has ensured that most of our children will not have an education, even though they may be thoroughly schooled."– John Taylor Gatto He who cultivates his land will have plenty of food, but from idle pursuits a man has his fill of poverty. Proverbs 28:19 herbal remedies tita_mel Fri, 23 Apr 2010 19:20:32 +0000 {Herbal Remedies} Re: Teach HR something Bryan, Here are some soap recipes from Noah's Ark and others. I normally use coconut oil instead of tallow or animal fat. Sometimes i put in a bit of olive oil. I suggest you go to Elaine White's website and read about how to make soap there. She also has many recipes in her own website. I would say it is a must to read Elaine's instructions. Melly ============ Soap Recipes Page 2 Recipe Index This Page Goat's Milk Hand-Milled Luxury Soap Laundry Liquid Soap Shampoo Soap Balls Please note that there are a number copyrighted soap recipes here. These people/companies have listed their recipes on the Internet for folks to try for free to help promote their product line. This is fine. What would not be fine is if we didn't give these folks all the credit due their efforts or take these as our own bits of brilliance. The copyrighted materials are duly noted next to each recipe. Since these folks have all been making soap commercially for some time, it would be a good idea to visit their site for additional information, tips or try their product line. They certainly give us good targets to aim for! At the bottom of this page, you'll find quick links to the contributors' websites. ------------------------- NOTE: Red Devil lye has changed the product container size. If your soap recipes have called for a portion of a can, e.g. 2/3 can, rather than a specified amount, and you haven't adjusted for the change, it will cause your soap recipes to fail. The old metal container held 12 ounces. The new plastic container holds 18 ounces, so adjust your recipes accordingly. GOAT'S MILK SOAP Goat Milk Soap Recipe #1 This size recipe can be mixed with the electric mixer. The recipe can be doubled and mixed by hand with a wooden paddle. Have ready an electric mixer and 2 large bowls, stainless or glass (not plastic). Mold: Can use styrofoam or an old cake pan. Have a piece of cloth ready to put on top of the soap and a lid to put on top of the cloth. Can be wrapped with a blanket or towels for insulation. (note from Steve: I use glass casserole dishes well greased with vaseline. Don't try to grease with oil, as it will saponify! Clear plastic candy molds make nice little soaps, too.) Fat: 1.5 lb melted fat (tallow, lard, tallow/lard mixture. Lard can be purchased in 1lb boxes.) Clarified fat, mixed pork and beef. If the fat has burned particles in it or is rancid, it can be clarified by boiling it up in a large pan with about a quart of water and then cooling it and scooping the clean fat off the top. The impurities settle to the bottom in the water. Measure 1/2 can lye (6.5 ounces). Handle with great care. Pour into a paper cup. Make sure the lid is securely back on the lye can. Put 3 cups goat milk in stainless steel mixer bowl. Pour the lye in slowly, running the mixer on low. It will get hot and the milk turns golden as the chemical reaction takes place. Cool until about 850F. May use dairy thermometer. 2 tsp Borax 1 cup baby oatmeal 2 ounces glycerin This can be stirred in while the lye and milk mixture is cooling. It is not necessary to stir the whole time. Watch the temperature of 1.5 pounds of fat. Fat should also be at about 85 or 900F. If you have to heat it to melt, make sure it has cooled again. Run the mixer on low for about 15 minutes, then turn off and let soap rest 5 minutes; run 5 minutes and rest 5 minutes. Repeat this and watch closely because soap will suddenly take consistency and must be poured into the mold. Pour when ready; smooth top surface and keep mold at even temperature for about 24 hours. Cloth can then be peeled off and bars can be cut with a serrated knife or scored and broken. Aging: Age the soap for at least a month, unwrapped. It is better if it ages 2 or 3 months. Failures sometimes occur. Sometimes melting the soap on a very low heat and stirring it some more is all that is necessary to make it set. A few suggestions: I always double the recipe so that I can use the whole can of lye and I can also buy 3 pound block of lard. I mix the lye and milk. Then I put in the block of lard and stir until it has melted. I powder regular oatmeal in the blender. I add it some baking soda and glycerin to the mixture. I stir about 5 or 10 minutes. I stick my thermometer in. It is usually about 1200F. I go about my business for an hour or so and then come back. When it is around 900F I stir for 15 minutes, rest 5, stir 5 and so on. When the spoon can stand up in the middle of the bowl by itself I start spooning it in the molds. ------------------------- Basic Goat Milk and Honey Soap #2 13 cups lard or rendered fat (6.5 pounds) 1 can caustic soda 1/2 cup honey 4 cups goat milk 1 cup hot water Into a large stainless steel or enamel container, dissolve the honey into the hot water. Add the 4 cups goat milk, stir to mix well and slowly add the lye to the milk/honey mixture. This will get very hot. Let it set until it cools down to 750F. This could take an hour or more. When the lye mixture reaches 750F, warm the lard to 850F and pour in a slow steady stream into the lye/milk mixture. Stir constantly until the mixture reaches the consistency of honey. This will take 20 or 30 minutes. When thick as honey pour into prepared molds. Allow to set for 24 to 48 hours. Unmold and cut into bars. Air-dry the soap for 4-5 weeks to cure it. ------------------------- Oatmeal & Honey Goat Milk Soap #3 6 cups goat milk 4 cups lard (2 pounds) 2/3 can Red Devil brand lye 2 cups dry oatmeal (run through the blender) 1/2 cup honey Carefully mix the milk and lye in a stainless container. Allow to cool to 850F. Stir in the refined oatmeal and honey. Mix well. Warm lard to 85 degrees and slowly add to milk mixture. Mix for 15 minutes, let stand 5 minutes. Mix again for 5 minutes. Watch closely as soap takes shape suddenly. When thick like honey pour into prepared molds. Let set 24-48 hours until set. Cut into bars and air cure for 3 to 4 weeks. I made the above one over the weekend. I used my regular recipe (doubled) and added about 3/4 cup of honey. I did it the way I normally do. I left it to set and checked on it about every 15 minutes. The last time I checked it it had almost hardened in the bowl. It did do okay though and I managed to pour it into a large pan. ------------------------- Rhonda's Goat Milk Soap Recipe! Hello! Here is a great recipe for goat milk soap...works every time! 42 oz olive oil 28 oz coconut oil 18 oz palm oil 12.7 oz caustic soda 33 oz goat milk (or buttermilk can be used too ) 1 cup ground oatmeal 4 Tbsp. raw honey fats and oil temp: 920F lye/milk temp: 920F cure for 4-6 weeks Even with no FO added, this soap still smells like honey and oatmeal 4 weeks later. Enjoy! ------------------------- Soap XI -- Goat Milk Soap - Elaine White - copyrighted (by measurements, not weight) 1 cup lard, melted 1 cup coconut oil, melted 1 cup goat (or other) milk 1/4 cup caustic soda granules (not flakes or crystals from other sources) 1/4 cup water Dissolve the lye in the water. Ingredients near 110 to 1200F. Add the lye/water to the fat. Stir in the milk. Tracing time about 1 hour 15 minutes. Leave in molds 2 days Place in freezer 3 hours Remove soap from molds, age 3 weeks. ------------------------- Fat to Lye temperature chart: Beef tallow = 1300F Lye = 950F Pure Lard = 850F Lye = 750F 1/2 Beef & 1/2 Lard = 110 degrees Lye = 850F ------------------------- HAND-MILLED SOAP Christmas Spice Bars 4 tsp (4g) ground ginger 1 TBS (6g) ground cinnamon 4 TBS (28g) fresh grated orange peel 10 drops each of cinnamon and neroli fragrance or essential oils 1-1/2 pounds (680g) grated Basic Soap 18 oz (510g) water Melt grated Basic Soap and combine with water as per instructions on the Hand-Milled Soap page. Combine the first 3 ingredients and add to the melted soap. Mix well and then stir in the scents. Mix thoroughly and pour into prepared molds. Finish as per instructions on the Hand-Milled Soap page. Due to the spices added, soap will have a medium brown color. ------------------------- Handmade Oatmeal Soaps Sugar Plum Sundries - copyrighted We have all seen the oatmeal soaps in the store that cost a fortune. Here's how to make your own. Uou can also add other dried material such as cornmeal or pumice for varying abrasive effects. 10oz palm 4oz coconut oil 2oz olive oil 1/4cup regular oatmeal, run through the blender 2oz lye 1 cup distilled water optional scent Mix lye and water and set aside to cool. Melt palm oil and coconut oil together and set aside to cool. In a blender or food processor, mix the olive oil and oatmeal. When the lye reaches 1000F and the fats are 1200F pour lye into fats and stir until it traces. Add the oatmeal mixture, and stir until well mixed. pour the soap into the molds. Allow to sit for 48 hours. Unmold and cut if needed. allow to age for 3 weeks. ------------------------- LAUNDRY SOAP Soap I -- Pure Soap Elaine White This is the only recipe I've discovered that remains scent-free without adding fragrance to the recipe. This soap is a bit too harsh for bath soap, but great for cleaning, washing dishes, delicate laundry, etc. Great lather and no fragrance. 16 oz coconut oil 2.8 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/water temperature about 1200F Estimated tracing time: 1 1/2 hours Time in molds: 48 hours Age: 3 weeks ------------------------- Tony's No Fail (and no weigh) Soap Recipe 2 cans (3 lb) veggie shortening 1 can (12 0z) lye 2 cups water Mix lye and water in enamel pan, OUTSIDE, set aside to cool. Melt shortening, set aside to cool. When both are "hot to the touch (on the outside of the pan) pour lye into shortening. Stir until consistency of mashed potatoes. Pour into prepared mold and let set 24 hours, covered. Uncover, poke it and see if it's firm. If it is, turn it out on newspapers and cut it into bars. Put them someplace safe and let cure for 2-3 weeks, minimum. If its not firm, cover and let sit for another 24 hours, then turn out and cut. MOLD: my favorite is a cardboard box lined with a trash bag. I usually get the ones that soft drinks or beer are shipped in because they're the perfect size for this batch. YIELD: around 24 bars, usually. CONVERTING TO WASHING POWDER: Let it cure out for about a month minimum. Grate it up real fine and there it is. I use around 1/2 of one of those disposable scoops from the commercial detergents. I also add a little dry or liquid bleach and a little borax to help with whitening and odor control. ------------------------- Grandma Herald's Laundry Soap Flakes 1 quart cold water 12 ounce sodium hydroxide 1 cup sugar 1/2 cup borax 2 quarts washed strained grease 1 cup Ammonia scent Pour water in earthenware jar. Pour in lye and stir with wooden stick. Let stand till cold (will take around an hour). Put sugar and borax into an earthenware or enamel vessel and stir well. Pour warm grease into borax mixture and stir well. Add ammonia and stir. Add cooled lye solution to grease mixture. Stir until mixture thickens to fudge consistency. Pour into a mold and let stand overnight. (Use a paper box lined with waxed paper). The soap hardens in a few days. Grate the soap finely into soap flakes and use. Washing fat drippings: Put fat in a large pan with 2 times the amount of water and one sliced potato, washed but not peeled. Boil hard for 30 minutes and strain into another pan. Cool for 24 hours. Cut fat off the top, hold under faucet to wash off scum which forms at the bottom. The fat is now clean and free of salt. Favorite scents: Sassafras, wintergreen, pine. Vegetable dye can be used to color the soap. ------------------------- Laundry Cleaner and Fabric Softener 1 cup soap flakes 1/2 cup borax 1/2 cup vinegar, in rinse cycle You may have to fiddle around with the amounts to fit your machine and type of laundry. This should cut down on rashes from detergent. Fabric softeners are just waxes that melt in the dryer, and evidently they are bad for fabrics, cottons especially (I can't stand the little oily spots they leave all over t-shirts and cotton knits). Bleach your whites about once a month with 1-1/2 c. chlorine bleach, instead of 1/2 c. every wash. ------------------------- Liquid Laundry Soap 2 1/2 gallons distilled water 1 sodium hydroxide, can 7 cups lard, melted 1 cup Ammonia 2 cups borax, or Borateem 3 cups wisk or similar liquid detergent booster Mix in 5 gallon crock or plastic bucket. Add enough water to fill pail. Stir a few minutes till reaches consistency of chicken gravy. Stir a couple times a day until it thickens. It will get like thick lotion and turn white. You can add 1/4 c liquid bluing if you like. Amount to use depends on type of water and size of load (no better directions given). Source: Countryside and Small Stock Journal, Vol 79, No 3: ------------------------- LIQUID SOAP Handmade Liquid Soap - Sugar Plum Sundries - copyrighted In the old days, people made soap using the lye they had leached from wood ashes. This was a long and arduous project, and resulted in a paste-like soap. The reason for the paste consistency was the fact that the lye was Potassium Hydroxide rather than Sodium Hydroxide. Today, you can purchase either variety. The more Potash (Potassium Hydroxide, or KOH) you use, the softer the soap, if you increase the amount of Sodium Hydroxide, your soap will be harder. WARNING! you cannot replace NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide) with KOH in a 1 to 1 swap. It requires approx. 1.4 times as much KOH as NaOH. So, without further ado, here is the recipe 12oz Palm Oil 4oz coconut oil 3.5oz POTASSIUM hydroxide 1 cup water Mix potash lye and water, set aside to cool. melt oils and cool. With lye at 950F and oils at 1150F combine and stir. This is a much warmer reaction than the NaOH soap. You will notice it if you use a big gulp cup and are holding it in your hand. It takes a little longer to trace, about 45-50 minutes. The trace happens suddenly. You can leave this soap in the cup to age if you like, since you will be mixing it with water later (maybe) Age for 2 weeks. If you wish, you may now thin it to a usable consistency. Add water a little at a time, and mix well. A blender works well for this. When you have the thickness you like, Add whatever fragrance you wish to use. This is another good thing about liquid soap, the essential oils need never come in contact with the lye, so the fragrance stays pure. Store it in a bottle or pump jar, and enjoy. ------------------------- Liquid Soap 1 ounce avocado oil 4 ounces coconut oil 11 ounces soybean oil 3.1 ounces lye 8 ounces water Mix as usual per basic instructions Combine water and lye, then added to melted fats. Stir until trace . Allow to sit for a few days until pH tests low. Then slowly stir in extra water to create a liquid soap. ------------------------- Liquid Soap Grate 2 oz (56.7g) of Basic Soap recipe under Bath and Body Bars 8 oz (227g) water Scent or color as desired Gently heat grated soap and water in saucepan. Stir gently until melted. Mix in any additives. Check consistency in a cool water bath. Correct thickness by adding water, thicken by adding more grated soap. Pour into container. Shake every few days to keep smooth. ------------------------- SHAMPOO Soap II -- Pure Soap Mink Oil Shampoo Elaine White 16 oz weight coconut oil 1/2 cup mink oil or (4 T. Castor oil) 2.9 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid oz.) Oil room temperature. Mix and use lye when the water turns clear. Put all ingredients in the blender. Follow the instructions for "Blender Soap" Don't let this soap trace. Process until the mixture is smooth (no oil streaks) and pour it into molds. Leave in molds 2 days Freeze soap 3 hours to release it from the molds. Age 3 weeks. ------------------------- SOAP BALLS Soap balls is a nifty way to get rid of extra soap that won't fill an individual mold or get rid of all those little scrap pieces left over from the shower. There are two easy ways to do this: Method One - For Scraps: Gather together like colors of soap (or you'll end up with an ugly colored ball). Place scraps in a bowl. If they are very small - great, no further work needed. If not, either break them up with a knife or grate the pieces with a vegetable grater. Sprinkle pieces with warm water; let sit 15 minutes to soften. Gather up a handful and squeeze into a ball shape. It will take from two days to two weeks to completely cure in a warm, dry area. Reshape every two days to maintain a round shape. Don't worry about irregularities; they will lend interest to your soap. Method Two - Balls From New Soap: Select your favorite Hand-Milled Soap recipe, but instead of pouring it into individual molds, pour the soap into one large one mold. Place everything in the freezer until it can be cut into blocks and hold its shape. Grate the blocks and allow to dry in a bowl up to a week. While still moist, gather up a handful and squeeze into ball shapes. It will take from two days to two weeks to completely dry in a warm, dry area. Reshape every two days to maintain a round shape. Again, irregularities will make your soap interesting -------------------------Contributors' websites where available: Countryman's Rustic Cuts Soapworks Elaine White's Lather Land Sugar Plum Sundries Tony O'Seland's Cedar Wolf Productions Rainbow Meadow ------------------------- ....Go Back to Recipes Page 1 ....Return to Main Soapmaking Page ...Return to Hand-Milled Soap Page herbal remedies , Pamela Tand <stambrys wrote: > > Bryan, > I make soap. Though at this time I do not make mine organic (it is very > expensive, and the market cannot bear the price I'd have to charge). The > preservative I use is not 100% natural but it is the most natural I can find > and I'm required by law to use one. Sodium and Potassium Hydroxide is made > through a chemical process. However there is another way to do this, with > wood ashes and rain. I've not tried it, as it is dangerous and needs to be > guarded against animals and children. > Do you raise animals? If you do, when you slaughter them do you render the > tallow/fat? That is how soap was originally made, with the sodium > hydroxide/water and tallow/fats. I use botanical oils, and mostly essential > oils. Though for selling I do use fragrance oils for some of my products > (give the customer what they want = being able to pay the rent). I always > try to steer the customers to the products without fragrance oils. > Now I can explain the process of making soap but with this word of caution! > If you try making soaps yourself, you MUST research/read as much as you can > before you start. There are certain things you can/cannot do, the safety > precautions are imperative to follow, there is not much worse then lye burns > (I know by personal experience). > Pam > > > > On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 4:40 PM, Bryan Shillington < > bryan wrote: > > > > > > > Great!!!! > > I'm Bryan, > > Father of one and a blacksmith, wildcrafter, chronic gardener, wood worker, > > roofer and stucco man. > > My wife Kelly likes to cook, make crafty little things, plant seeds and > > hike in the woods. > > My one and a half y/o daughter Zea loves to hide other peoples possessions, > > tend the dirt, plant seeds, play with the rabbit and devour Basil plants. > > You'll find a lot in common with the folks here on Herbal Remedies. :-) > > Please do contribute any knowledge you have!!!!!!! > > > > Does anyone know how to make 100% Organic Soap? > > Does anyone know how to make Vinegar? > > Does anyone have a great Raw recipe? > > How do you use / cook with your gathered edibles. > > > > ~B > > > > > > On 4/20/2010 3:28 PM, Jennifer wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi Everyone, > > > > I'm a mom of four living in PA. We homeschool and we garden. One of the > > things we do is have the children maintain an herb garden. > > > > Next year for our oldest, he will be making soap from the dried hetbs. > > > > Our younger son is maintaining an herbal tea garden. > > > > As for me, I enjoy the medicinal value of herbs. I also love wild > > gathering. > > > > I hope to learn alot here as well as contribute ) > > > > Thanks for having me! > > > > Jennifer in PA > > > > > > > > > > -- > Pamela Tand > Stambry's Crescent Moon Soap Company > stambrys > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. Learn more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 26, 2010 Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 Hi Gab, I am going to try to answer your questions, though I am not the original poster. Caustic soda is just plain old lye. This can be hard to find anymore(meth makers use this, I'm told!), but it can be found in old hardwares, if you are lucky. Most grocers quit carrying it. I think the FO is a typo and should have said EO for Essential Oils, or perhaps it means Fragrance Oil. Most fragrance oils are not strong enough to stand up to the lye and the smell is burned out. That is why most soapers use essential oils. I believe the proper temperature should be that both the fats/oils and the lye liquid should be at 120 degrees each before combining. Use a candy thermometer in each container to monitor the temps. From another soapmaker (among many other things! ),~ Lori "By preventing a free market in education, a handful of social engineers - backed by the industries that profit from compulsory schooling: teacher colleges, textbook publishers, materials suppliers, et al. - has ensured that most of our children will not have an education, even though they may be thoroughly schooled."– John Taylor Gatto He who cultivates his land will have plenty of food, but from idle pursuits a man has his fill of poverty. Proverbs 28:19 herbal remedies From: gcliburnDate: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 13:22:34 -0400Re: {Herbal Remedies} Re: Teach HR something ok , so i dont know whats going on and have no clue .. i admitt to that ... but what is caustic soda , and FO ....??? and what about the temperatures 920 F ....thank you gabOn 4/26/2010 1:15 PM, Bryan Shillington wrote: Thank you Melly. This one looks the most natural and has no animal fats. Woo hoo!!! I'm gonna make soap. ~BRhonda's Goat Milk Soap Recipe!Hello! Here is a great recipe for goat milk soap...works every time!42 oz olive oil28 oz coconut oil18 oz palm oil12.7 oz caustic soda33 oz goat milk (or buttermilk can be used too )1 cup ground oatmeal4 Tbsp. raw honeyfats and oil temp: 920Flye/milk temp: 920Fcure for 4-6 weeksEven with no FO added, this soap still smells like honey and oatmeal 4 weeks later. Enjoy! The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. Get started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 26, 2010 Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 Bryan, I make a similar soap only with water instead of milk. I like to put my oats in a blender or food processor and powder it so that it is not rough on the skin, yet it adds a wonderful addition to any soap. Honey will make soap a bit softer than had it not been added. The longer you let your soap cure the harder it will get. I usually can't wait to try what I make and will usually use at least one bar within 3 weeks of making it! Lori "By preventing a free market in education, a handful of social engineers - backed by the industries that profit from compulsory schooling: teacher colleges, textbook publishers, materials suppliers, et al. - has ensured that most of our children will not have an education, even though they may be thoroughly schooled."– John Taylor Gatto He who cultivates his land will have plenty of food, but from idle pursuits a man has his fill of poverty. Proverbs 28:19 herbal remedies From: bryanDate: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 13:15:01 -0400Re: {Herbal Remedies} Re: Teach HR something Thank you Melly. This one looks the most natural and has no animal fats. Woo hoo!!! I'm gonna make soap. ~BRhonda's Goat Milk Soap Recipe!Hello! Here is a great recipe for goat milk soap...works every time!42 oz olive oil28 oz coconut oil18 oz palm oil12.7 oz caustic soda33 oz goat milk (or buttermilk can be used too )1 cup ground oatmeal4 Tbsp. raw honeyfats and oil temp: 920Flye/milk temp: 920Fcure for 4-6 weeksEven with no FO added, this soap still smells like honey and oatmeal 4 weeks later. Enjoy!On 4/23/2010 3:20 PM, tita_mel wrote: Bryan,Here are some soap recipes from Noah's Ark and others. I normally use coconut oil instead of tallow or animal fat. Sometimes i put in a bit of olive oil. I suggest you go to Elaine White's website and read about how to make soap there. She also has many recipes in her own website. I would say it is a must to read Elaine's instructions.Melly============SoapRecipesPage 2 Recipe Index This PageGoat's MilkHand-Milled Luxury SoapLaundryLiquid SoapShampooSoap BallsPlease note that there are a number copyrighted soap recipes here. These people/companies have listed their recipes on the Internet for folks to try for free to help promote their product line. This is fine. What would not be fine is if we didn't give these folks all the credit due their efforts or take these as our own bits of brilliance. The copyrighted materials are duly noted next to each recipe. Since these folks have all been making soap commercially for some time, it would be a good idea to visit their site for additional information, tips or try their product line. They certainly give us good targets to aim for! At the bottom of this page, you'll find quick links to the contributors' websites.-------------------------NOTE: Red Devil lye has changed the product container size. If your soap recipes have called for a portion of a can, e.g. 2/3 can, rather than a specified amount, and you haven't adjusted for the change, it will cause your soap recipes to fail. The old metal container held 12 ounces. The new plastic container holds 18 ounces, so adjust your recipes accordingly. GOAT'S MILK SOAPGoat Milk Soap Recipe #1This size recipe can be mixed with the electric mixer. The recipe can be doubled and mixed by hand with a wooden paddle. Have ready an electric mixer and 2 large bowls, stainless or glass (not plastic).Mold: Can use styrofoam or an old cake pan. Have a piece of cloth ready to put on top of the soap and a lid to put on top of the cloth. Can be wrapped with a blanket or towels for insulation. (note from Steve: I use glass casserole dishes well greased with vaseline. Don't try to grease with oil, as it will saponify! Clear plastic candy molds make nice little soaps, too.)Fat: 1.5 lb melted fat (tallow, lard, tallow/lard mixture. Lard can be purchased in 1lb boxes.) Clarified fat, mixed pork and beef. If the fat has burned particles in it or is rancid, it can be clarified by boiling it up in a large pan with about a quart of water and then cooling it and scooping the clean fat off the top. The impurities settle to the bottom in the water.Measure 1/2 can lye (6.5 ounces). Handle with great care. Pour into a paper cup. Make sure the lid is securely back on the lye can. Put 3 cups goat milk in stainless steel mixer bowl. Pour the lye in slowly, running the mixer on low. It will get hot and the milk turns golden as the chemical reaction takes place. Cool until about 850F. May use dairy thermometer.2 tsp Borax1 cup baby oatmeal2 ounces glycerinThis can be stirred in while the lye and milk mixture is cooling. It is not necessary to stir the whole time. Watch the temperature of 1.5 pounds of fat. Fat should also be at about 85 or 900F. If you have to heat it to melt, make sure it has cooled again. Run the mixer on low for about 15 minutes, then turn off and let soap rest 5 minutes; run 5 minutes and rest 5 minutes. Repeat this and watch closely because soap will suddenly take consistency and must be poured into the mold. Pour when ready; smooth top surface and keep mold at even temperature for about 24 hours. Cloth can then be peeled off and bars can be cut with a serrated knife or scored and broken.Aging: Age the soap for at least a month, unwrapped. It is better if it ages 2 or 3 months. Failures sometimes occur. Sometimes melting the soap on a very low heat and stirring it some more is all that is necessary to make it set.A few suggestions: I always double the recipe so that I can use the whole can of lye and I can also buy 3 pound block of lard. I mix the lye and milk. Then I put in the block of lard and stir until it has melted. I powder regular oatmeal in the blender. I add it some baking soda and glycerin to the mixture. I stir about 5 or 10 minutes. I stick my thermometer in. It is usually about 1200F. I go about my business for an hour or so and then come back. When it is around 900F I stir for 15 minutes, rest 5, stir 5 and so on. When the spoon can stand up in the middle of the bowl by itself I start spooning it in the molds.-------------------------Basic Goat Milk and Honey Soap #213 cups lard or rendered fat (6.5 pounds)1 can caustic soda1/2 cup honey4 cups goat milk1 cup hot waterInto a large stainless steel or enamel container, dissolve the honey into the hot water. Add the 4 cups goat milk, stir to mix well and slowly add the lye to the milk/honey mixture. This will get very hot. Let it set until it cools down to 750F. This could take an hour or more. When the lye mixture reaches 750F, warm the lard to 850F and pour in a slow steady stream into the lye/milk mixture. Stir constantly until the mixture reaches the consistency of honey. This will take 20 or 30 minutes.When thick as honey pour into prepared molds. Allow to set for 24 to 48 hours. Unmold and cut into bars. Air-dry the soap for 4-5 weeks to cure it.-------------------------Oatmeal & Honey Goat Milk Soap #36 cups goat milk4 cups lard (2 pounds)2/3 can Red Devil brand lye2 cups dry oatmeal (run through the blender)1/2 cup honeyCarefully mix the milk and lye in a stainless container. Allow to cool to 850F. Stir in the refined oatmeal and honey. Mix well. Warm lard to 85 degrees and slowly add to milk mixture. Mix for 15 minutes, let stand 5 minutes. Mix again for 5 minutes. Watch closely as soap takes shape suddenly. When thick like honey pour into prepared molds. Let set 24-48 hours until set. Cut into bars and air cure for 3 to 4 weeks.I made the above one over the weekend. I used my regular recipe (doubled) and added about 3/4 cup of honey. I did it the way I normally do. I left it to set and checked on it about every 15 minutes. The last time I checked it it had almost hardened in the bowl. It did do okay though and I managed to pour it into a large pan.-------------------------Rhonda's Goat Milk Soap Recipe!Hello! Here is a great recipe for goat milk soap...works every time!42 oz olive oil28 oz coconut oil18 oz palm oil12.7 oz caustic soda33 oz goat milk (or buttermilk can be used too )1 cup ground oatmeal4 Tbsp. raw honeyfats and oil temp: 920Flye/milk temp: 920Fcure for 4-6 weeksEven with no FO added, this soap still smells like honey and oatmeal 4 weeks later. Enjoy!-------------------------Soap XI -- Goat Milk Soap - Elaine White - copyrighted(by measurements, not weight)1 cup lard, melted1 cup coconut oil, melted1 cup goat (or other) milk1/4 cup caustic soda granules (not flakes or crystals from other sources)1/4 cup waterDissolve the lye in the water.Ingredients near 110 to 1200F.Add the lye/water to the fat. Stir in the milk.Tracing time about 1 hour 15 minutes.Leave in molds 2 daysPlace in freezer 3 hoursRemove soap from molds, age 3 weeks.-------------------------Fat to Lye temperature chart:Beef tallow = 1300F Lye = 950FPure Lard = 850F Lye = 750F1/2 Beef & 1/2 Lard = 110 degrees Lye = 850F-------------------------HAND-MILLED SOAPChristmas Spice Bars4 tsp (4g) ground ginger1 TBS (6g) ground cinnamon4 TBS (28g) fresh grated orange peel10 drops each of cinnamon and neroli fragrance or essential oils1-1/2 pounds (680g) grated Basic Soap18 oz (510g) waterMelt grated Basic Soap and combine with water as per instructions on the Hand-Milled Soap page. Combine the first 3 ingredients and add to the melted soap. Mix well and then stir in the scents. Mix thoroughly and pour into prepared molds. Finish as per instructions on the Hand-Milled Soap page. Due to the spices added, soap will have a medium brown color.-------------------------Handmade Oatmeal Soaps Sugar Plum Sundries - copyrightedWe have all seen the oatmeal soaps in the store that cost a fortune. Here's how to make your own. Uou can also add other dried material such as cornmeal or pumice for varying abrasive effects.10oz palm4oz coconut oil2oz olive oil1/4cup regular oatmeal, run through the blender2oz lye1 cup distilled wateroptional scentMix lye and water and set aside to cool. Melt palm oil and coconut oil together and set aside to cool. In a blender or food processor, mix the olive oil and oatmeal. When the lye reaches 1000F and the fats are 1200F pour lye into fats and stir until it traces. Add the oatmeal mixture, and stir until well mixed. pour the soap into the molds. Allow to sit for 48 hours. Unmold and cut if needed. allow to age for 3 weeks.-------------------------LAUNDRY SOAPSoap I -- Pure Soap Elaine WhiteThis is the only recipe I've discovered that remains scent-free without adding fragrance to the recipe. This soap is a bit too harsh for bath soap, but great for cleaning, washing dishes, delicate laundry, etc. Great lather and no fragrance.16 oz coconut oil2.8 oz lye1 cup water (8 fluid ounces)Fat and lye/water temperature about 1200FEstimated tracing time: 1 1/2 hoursTime in molds: 48 hoursAge: 3 weeks-------------------------Tony's No Fail (and no weigh) Soap Recipe2 cans (3 lb) veggie shortening1 can (12 0z) lye2 cups waterMix lye and water in enamel pan, OUTSIDE, set aside to cool. Melt shortening, set aside to cool. When both are "hot to the touch (on the outside of the pan) pour lye into shortening. Stir until consistency of mashed potatoes. Pour into prepared mold and let set 24 hours, covered. Uncover, poke it and see if it's firm. If it is, turn it out on newspapers and cut it into bars. Put them someplace safe and let cure for 2-3 weeks, minimum. If its not firm, cover and let sit for another 24 hours, then turn out and cut.MOLD: my favorite is a cardboard box lined with a trash bag. I usually get the ones that soft drinks or beer are shipped in because they're the perfect size for this batch. YIELD: around 24 bars, usually.CONVERTING TO WASHING POWDER: Let it cure out for about a month minimum. Grate it up real fine and there it is. I use around 1/2 of one of those disposable scoops from the commercial detergents. I also add a little dry or liquid bleach and a little borax to help with whitening and odor control.-------------------------Grandma Herald's Laundry Soap Flakes1 quart cold water12 ounce sodium hydroxide1 cup sugar1/2 cup borax2 quarts washed strained grease1 cup AmmoniascentPour water in earthenware jar. Pour in lye and stir with wooden stick. Let stand till cold (will take around an hour). Put sugar and borax into an earthenware or enamel vessel and stir well. Pour warm grease into borax mixture and stir well. Add ammonia and stir. Add cooled lye solution to grease mixture. Stir until mixture thickens to fudge consistency. Pour into a mold and let stand overnight. (Use a paper box lined with waxed paper). The soap hardens in a few days. Grate the soap finely into soap flakes and use.Washing fat drippings: Put fat in a large pan with 2 times the amount of water and one sliced potato, washed but not peeled. Boil hard for 30 minutes and strain into another pan. Cool for 24 hours. Cut fat off the top, hold under faucet to wash off scum which forms at the bottom. The fat is now clean and free of salt. Favorite scents: Sassafras, wintergreen, pine. Vegetable dye can be used to color the soap.-------------------------Laundry Cleaner and Fabric Softener1 cup soap flakes1/2 cup borax1/2 cup vinegar, in rinse cycleYou may have to fiddle around with the amounts to fit your machine and type of laundry. This should cut down on rashes from detergent. Fabric softeners are just waxes that melt in the dryer, and evidently they are bad for fabrics, cottons especially (I can't stand the little oily spots they leave all over t-shirts and cotton knits).Bleach your whites about once a month with 1-1/2 c. chlorine bleach, instead of 1/2 c. every wash.-------------------------Liquid Laundry Soap2 1/2 gallons distilled water1 sodium hydroxide, can7 cups lard, melted1 cup Ammonia2 cups borax, or Borateem3 cups wisk or similar liquid detergent boosterMix in 5 gallon crock or plastic bucket. Add enough water to fill pail. Stir a few minutes till reaches consistency of chicken gravy. Stir a couple times a day until it thickens. It will get like thick lotion and turn white. You can add 1/4 c liquid bluing if you like. Amount to use depends on type of water and size of load (no better directions given). Source: Countryside and Small Stock Journal, Vol 79, No 3:-------------------------LIQUID SOAPHandmade Liquid Soap - Sugar Plum Sundries - copyrightedIn the old days, people made soap using the lye they had leached from wood ashes. This was a long and arduous project, and resulted in a paste-like soap. The reason for the paste consistency was the fact that the lye was Potassium Hydroxide rather than Sodium Hydroxide. Today, you can purchase either variety. The more Potash (Potassium Hydroxide, or KOH) you use, the softer the soap, if you increase the amount of Sodium Hydroxide, your soap will be harder.WARNING! you cannot replace NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide) with KOH in a 1 to 1 swap. It requires approx. 1.4 times as much KOH as NaOH. So, without further ado, here is the recipe12oz Palm Oil4oz coconut oil3.5oz POTASSIUM hydroxide1 cup waterMix potash lye and water, set aside to cool. melt oils and cool. With lye at 950F and oils at 1150F combine and stir. This is a much warmer reaction than the NaOH soap. You will notice it if you use a big gulp cup and are holding it in your hand. It takes a little longer to trace, about 45-50 minutes. The trace happens suddenly. You can leave this soap in the cup to age if you like, since you will be mixing it with water later (maybe) Age for 2 weeks.If you wish, you may now thin it to a usable consistency. Add water a little at a time, and mix well. A blender works well for this. When you have the thickness you like, Add whatever fragrance you wish to use. This is another good thing about liquid soap, the essential oils need never come in contact with the lye, so the fragrance stays pure. Store it in a bottle or pump jar, and enjoy.-------------------------Liquid Soap1 ounce avocado oil4 ounces coconut oil11 ounces soybean oil3.1 ounces lye8 ounces waterMix as usual per basic instructionsCombine water and lye, then added to melted fats. Stir until trace . Allow to sit for a few days until pH tests low. Then slowly stir in extra water to create a liquid soap.-------------------------Liquid SoapGrate 2 oz (56.7g) of Basic Soap recipe under Bath and Body Bars8 oz (227g) waterScent or color as desiredGently heat grated soap and water in saucepan. Stir gently until melted. Mix in any additives. Check consistency in a cool water bath. Correct thickness by adding water, thicken by adding more grated soap. Pour into container. Shake every few days to keep smooth.-------------------------SHAMPOOSoap II -- Pure Soap Mink Oil Shampoo Elaine White16 oz weight coconut oil1/2 cup mink oil or (4 T. Castor oil)2.9 oz lye1 cup water (8 fluid oz.)Oil room temperature. Mix and use lye when the water turns clear. Put all ingredients in the blender. Follow the instructions for "Blender Soap" Don't let this soap trace. Process until the mixture is smooth (no oil streaks) and pour it into molds.Leave in molds 2 daysFreeze soap 3 hours to release it from the molds.Age 3 weeks.-------------------------SOAP BALLSSoap balls is a nifty way to get rid of extra soap that won't fill an individual mold or get rid of all those little scrap pieces left over from the shower. There are two easy ways to do this:Method One - For Scraps: Gather together like colors of soap (or you'll end up with an ugly colored ball). Place scraps in a bowl. If they are very small - great, no further work needed. If not, either break them up with a knife or grate the pieces with a vegetable grater. Sprinkle pieces with warm water; let sit 15 minutes to soften. Gather up a handful and squeeze into a ball shape. It will take from two days to two weeks to completely cure in a warm, dry area. Reshape every two days to maintain a round shape. Don't worry about irregularities; they will lend interest to your soap.Method Two - Balls From New Soap: Select your favorite Hand-Milled Soap recipe, but instead of pouring it into individual molds, pour the soap into one large one mold. Place everything in the freezer until it can be cut into blocks and hold its shape.Grate the blocks and allow to dry in a bowl up to a week. While still moist, gather up a handful and squeeze into ball shapes. It will take from two days to two weeks to completely dry in a warm, dry area. Reshape every two days to maintain a round shape. Again, irregularities will make your soap interesting-------------------------Contributors' websites where available:Countryman's Rustic Cuts SoapworksElaine White's Lather LandSugar Plum SundriesTony O'Seland's Cedar Wolf ProductionsRainbow Meadow-------------------------...Go Back to Recipes Page 1...Return to Main Soapmaking Page ...Return to Hand-Milled Soap Pageherbal remedies , Pamela Tand <stambrys wrote:>> Bryan,> I make soap. Though at this time I do not make mine organic (it is very> expensive, and the market cannot bear the price I'd have to charge). The> preservative I use is not 100% natural but it is the most natural I can find> and I'm required by law to use one. Sodium and Potassium Hydroxide is made> through a chemical process. However there is another way to do this, with> wood ashes and rain. I've not tried it, as it is dangerous and needs to be> guarded against animals and children.> Do you raise animals? If you do, when you slaughter them do you render the> tallow/fat? That is how soap was originally made, with the sodium> hydroxide/water and tallow/fats. I use botanical oils, and mostly essential> oils. Though for selling I do use fragrance oils for some of my products> (give the customer what they want = being able to pay the rent). I always> try to steer the customers to the products without fragrance oils.> Now I can explain the process of making soap but with this word of caution!> If you try making soaps yourself, you MUST research/read as much as you can> before you start. There are certain things you can/cannot do, the safety> precautions are imperative to follow, there is not much worse then lye burns> (I know by personal experience).> Pam> > > > On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 4:40 PM, Bryan Shillington <> bryan wrote:> > >> >> > Great!!!!> > I'm Bryan,> > Father of one and a blacksmith, wildcrafter, chronic gardener, wood worker,> > roofer and stucco man.> > My wife Kelly likes to cook, make crafty little things, plant seeds and> > hike in the woods.> > My one and a half y/o daughter Zea loves to hide other peoples possessions,> > tend the dirt, plant seeds, play with the rabbit and devour Basil plants.> > You'll find a lot in common with the folks here on Herbal Remedies. :-)> > Please do contribute any knowledge you have!!!!!!!> >> > Does anyone know how to make 100% Organic Soap?> > Does anyone know how to make Vinegar?> > Does anyone have a great Raw recipe?> > How do you use / cook with your gathered edibles.> >> > ~B> >> >> > On 4/20/2010 3:28 PM, Jennifer wrote:> >> >> >> > Hi Everyone,> >> > I'm a mom of four living in PA. We homeschool and we garden. One of the> > things we do is have the children maintain an herb garden.> >> > Next year for our oldest, he will be making soap from the dried hetbs.> >> > Our younger son is maintaining an herbal tea garden.> >> > As for me, I enjoy the medicinal value of herbs. I also love wild> > gathering.> >> > I hope to learn alot here as well as contribute )> >> > Thanks for having me!> >> > Jennifer in PA> >> > > >> > > > -- > Pamela Tand> Stambry's Crescent Moon Soap Company> stambrys The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hotmail. Get busy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 On 4/26/2010 6:10 thanks lori ... looks like there were more than one typo in the origianl post .. you want kefir grains ?? i'll trade you enough grains for a bar of your soap .... [ you do not need too many grains , they'll reproduce on their own ] . thank you for the info . i dont think i will be making soap any time soon , i do NOT need another project or another thing to collect ... gab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 Oh bummer…I have lots of milk kefir grains AND water grains – wish I had thought of that trade J Lisa herbal remedies [herbal remedies ] On Behalf Of gabriele Monday, April 26, 2010 9:18 PM herbal remedies Re: {Herbal Remedies} Re: Teach HR something On 4/26/2010 6:10 thanks lori ... looks like there were more than one typo in the origianl post .. you want kefir grains ?? i'll trade you enough grains for a bar of your soap .... [ you do not need too many grains , they'll reproduce on their own ] . thank you for the info . i dont think i will be making soap any time soon , i do NOT need another project or another thing to collect ... gab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 Thanks for the tips. I'm gonna do it. I can't wait, works making me though. :-) Thanks a lot. ~B On 4/26/2010 6:43 PM, Lori Smith wrote: Bryan, I make a similar soap only with water instead of milk. I like to put my oats in a blender or food processor and powder it so that it is not rough on the skin, yet it adds a wonderful addition to any soap. Honey will make soap a bit softer than had it not been added. The longer you let your soap cure the harder it will get. I usually can't wait to try what I make and will usually use at least one bar within 3 weeks of making it! Lori "By preventing a free market in education, a handful of social engineers - backed by the industries that profit from compulsory schooling: teacher colleges, textbook publishers, materials suppliers, et al. - has ensured that most of our children will not have an education, even though they may be thoroughly schooled."– John Taylor Gatto He who cultivates his land will have plenty of food, but from idle pursuits a man has his fill of poverty. Proverbs 28:19 herbal remedies bryan (AT) academyofnaturalhealing (DOT) com Mon, 26 Apr 2010 13:15:01 -0400 Re: {Herbal Remedies} Re: Teach HR something Thank you Melly. This one looks the most natural and has no animal fats. Woo hoo!!! I'm gonna make soap. ~B Rhonda's Goat Milk Soap Recipe! Hello! Here is a great recipe for goat milk soap...works every time! 42 oz olive oil 28 oz coconut oil 18 oz palm oil 12.7 oz caustic soda 33 oz goat milk (or buttermilk can be used too ) 1 cup ground oatmeal 4 Tbsp. raw honey fats and oil temp: 920F lye/milk temp: 920F cure for 4-6 weeks Even with no FO added, this soap still smells like honey and oatmeal 4 weeks later. Enjoy! On 4/23/2010 3:20 PM, tita_mel wrote: Bryan, Here are some soap recipes from Noah's Ark and others. I normally use coconut oil instead of tallow or animal fat. Sometimes i put in a bit of olive oil. I suggest you go to Elaine White's website and read about how to make soap there. She also has many recipes in her own website. I would say it is a must to read Elaine's instructions. Melly ============ Soap Recipes Page 2 Recipe Index This Page Goat's Milk Hand-Milled Luxury Soap Laundry Liquid Soap Shampoo Soap Balls Please note that there are a number copyrighted soap recipes here. These people/companies have listed their recipes on the Internet for folks to try for free to help promote their product line. This is fine. What would not be fine is if we didn't give these folks all the credit due their efforts or take these as our own bits of brilliance. The copyrighted materials are duly noted next to each recipe. Since these folks have all been making soap commercially for some time, it would be a good idea to visit their site for additional information, tips or try their product line. They certainly give us good targets to aim for! At the bottom of this page, you'll find quick links to the contributors' websites. ------------------------- NOTE: Red Devil lye has changed the product container size. If your soap recipes have called for a portion of a can, e.g. 2/3 can, rather than a specified amount, and you haven't adjusted for the change, it will cause your soap recipes to fail. The old metal container held 12 ounces. The new plastic container holds 18 ounces, so adjust your recipes accordingly. GOAT'S MILK SOAP Goat Milk Soap Recipe #1 This size recipe can be mixed with the electric mixer. The recipe can be doubled and mixed by hand with a wooden paddle. Have ready an electric mixer and 2 large bowls, stainless or glass (not plastic). Mold: Can use styrofoam or an old cake pan. Have a piece of cloth ready to put on top of the soap and a lid to put on top of the cloth. Can be wrapped with a blanket or towels for insulation. (note from Steve: I use glass casserole dishes well greased with vaseline. Don't try to grease with oil, as it will saponify! Clear plastic candy molds make nice little soaps, too.) Fat: 1.5 lb melted fat (tallow, lard, tallow/lard mixture. Lard can be purchased in 1lb boxes.) Clarified fat, mixed pork and beef. If the fat has burned particles in it or is rancid, it can be clarified by boiling it up in a large pan with about a quart of water and then cooling it and scooping the clean fat off the top. The impurities settle to the bottom in the water. Measure 1/2 can lye (6.5 ounces). Handle with great care. Pour into a paper cup. Make sure the lid is securely back on the lye can. Put 3 cups goat milk in stainless steel mixer bowl. Pour the lye in slowly, running the mixer on low. It will get hot and the milk turns golden as the chemical reaction takes place. Cool until about 850F. May use dairy thermometer. 2 tsp Borax 1 cup baby oatmeal 2 ounces glycerin This can be stirred in while the lye and milk mixture is cooling. It is not necessary to stir the whole time. Watch the temperature of 1.5 pounds of fat. Fat should also be at about 85 or 900F. If you have to heat it to melt, make sure it has cooled again. Run the mixer on low for about 15 minutes, then turn off and let soap rest 5 minutes; run 5 minutes and rest 5 minutes. Repeat this and watch closely because soap will suddenly take consistency and must be poured into the mold. Pour when ready; smooth top surface and keep mold at even temperature for about 24 hours. Cloth can then be peeled off and bars can be cut with a serrated knife or scored and broken. Aging: Age the soap for at least a month, unwrapped. It is better if it ages 2 or 3 months. Failures sometimes occur. Sometimes melting the soap on a very low heat and stirring it some more is all that is necessary to make it set. A few suggestions: I always double the recipe so that I can use the whole can of lye and I can also buy 3 pound block of lard. I mix the lye and milk. Then I put in the block of lard and stir until it has melted. I powder regular oatmeal in the blender. I add it some baking soda and glycerin to the mixture. I stir about 5 or 10 minutes. I stick my thermometer in. It is usually about 1200F. I go about my business for an hour or so and then come back. When it is around 900F I stir for 15 minutes, rest 5, stir 5 and so on. When the spoon can stand up in the middle of the bowl by itself I start spooning it in the molds. ------------------------- Basic Goat Milk and Honey Soap #2 13 cups lard or rendered fat (6.5 pounds) 1 can caustic soda 1/2 cup honey 4 cups goat milk 1 cup hot water Into a large stainless steel or enamel container, dissolve the honey into the hot water. Add the 4 cups goat milk, stir to mix well and slowly add the lye to the milk/honey mixture. This will get very hot. Let it set until it cools down to 750F. This could take an hour or more. When the lye mixture reaches 750F, warm the lard to 850F and pour in a slow steady stream into the lye/milk mixture. Stir constantly until the mixture reaches the consistency of honey. This will take 20 or 30 minutes. When thick as honey pour into prepared molds. Allow to set for 24 to 48 hours. Unmold and cut into bars. Air-dry the soap for 4-5 weeks to cure it. ------------------------- Oatmeal & Honey Goat Milk Soap #3 6 cups goat milk 4 cups lard (2 pounds) 2/3 can Red Devil brand lye 2 cups dry oatmeal (run through the blender) 1/2 cup honey Carefully mix the milk and lye in a stainless container. Allow to cool to 850F. Stir in the refined oatmeal and honey. Mix well. Warm lard to 85 degrees and slowly add to milk mixture. Mix for 15 minutes, let stand 5 minutes. Mix again for 5 minutes. Watch closely as soap takes shape suddenly. When thick like honey pour into prepared molds. Let set 24-48 hours until set. Cut into bars and air cure for 3 to 4 weeks. I made the above one over the weekend. I used my regular recipe (doubled) and added about 3/4 cup of honey. I did it the way I normally do. I left it to set and checked on it about every 15 minutes. The last time I checked it it had almost hardened in the bowl. It did do okay though and I managed to pour it into a large pan. ------------------------- Rhonda's Goat Milk Soap Recipe! Hello! Here is a great recipe for goat milk soap...works every time! 42 oz olive oil 28 oz coconut oil 18 oz palm oil 12.7 oz caustic soda 33 oz goat milk (or buttermilk can be used too ) 1 cup ground oatmeal 4 Tbsp. raw honey fats and oil temp: 920F lye/milk temp: 920F cure for 4-6 weeks Even with no FO added, this soap still smells like honey and oatmeal 4 weeks later. Enjoy! ------------------------- Soap XI -- Goat Milk Soap - Elaine White - copyrighted (by measurements, not weight) 1 cup lard, melted 1 cup coconut oil, melted 1 cup goat (or other) milk 1/4 cup caustic soda granules (not flakes or crystals from other sources) 1/4 cup water Dissolve the lye in the water. Ingredients near 110 to 1200F. Add the lye/water to the fat. Stir in the milk. Tracing time about 1 hour 15 minutes. Leave in molds 2 days Place in freezer 3 hours Remove soap from molds, age 3 weeks. ------------------------- Fat to Lye temperature chart: Beef tallow = 1300F Lye = 950F Pure Lard = 850F Lye = 750F 1/2 Beef & 1/2 Lard = 110 degrees Lye = 850F ------------------------- HAND-MILLED SOAP Christmas Spice Bars 4 tsp (4g) ground ginger 1 TBS (6g) ground cinnamon 4 TBS (28g) fresh grated orange peel 10 drops each of cinnamon and neroli fragrance or essential oils 1-1/2 pounds (680g) grated Basic Soap 18 oz (510g) water Melt grated Basic Soap and combine with water as per instructions on the Hand-Milled Soap page. Combine the first 3 ingredients and add to the melted soap. Mix well and then stir in the scents. Mix thoroughly and pour into prepared molds. Finish as per instructions on the Hand-Milled Soap page. Due to the spices added, soap will have a medium brown color. ------------------------- Handmade Oatmeal Soaps Sugar Plum Sundries - copyrighted We have all seen the oatmeal soaps in the store that cost a fortune. Here's how to make your own. Uou can also add other dried material such as cornmeal or pumice for varying abrasive effects. 10oz palm 4oz coconut oil 2oz olive oil 1/4cup regular oatmeal, run through the blender 2oz lye 1 cup distilled water optional scent Mix lye and water and set aside to cool. Melt palm oil and coconut oil together and set aside to cool. In a blender or food processor, mix the olive oil and oatmeal. When the lye reaches 1000F and the fats are 1200F pour lye into fats and stir until it traces. Add the oatmeal mixture, and stir until well mixed. pour the soap into the molds. Allow to sit for 48 hours. Unmold and cut if needed. allow to age for 3 weeks. ------------------------- LAUNDRY SOAP Soap I -- Pure Soap Elaine White This is the only recipe I've discovered that remains scent-free without adding fragrance to the recipe. This soap is a bit too harsh for bath soap, but great for cleaning, washing dishes, delicate laundry, etc. Great lather and no fragrance. 16 oz coconut oil 2.8 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/water temperature about 1200F Estimated tracing time: 1 1/2 hours Time in molds: 48 hours Age: 3 weeks ------------------------- Tony's No Fail (and no weigh) Soap Recipe 2 cans (3 lb) veggie shortening 1 can (12 0z) lye 2 cups water Mix lye and water in enamel pan, OUTSIDE, set aside to cool. Melt shortening, set aside to cool. When both are "hot to the touch (on the outside of the pan) pour lye into shortening. Stir until consistency of mashed potatoes. Pour into prepared mold and let set 24 hours, covered. Uncover, poke it and see if it's firm. If it is, turn it out on newspapers and cut it into bars. Put them someplace safe and let cure for 2-3 weeks, minimum. If its not firm, cover and let sit for another 24 hours, then turn out and cut. MOLD: my favorite is a cardboard box lined with a trash bag. I usually get the ones that soft drinks or beer are shipped in because they're the perfect size for this batch. YIELD: around 24 bars, usually. CONVERTING TO WASHING POWDER: Let it cure out for about a month minimum. Grate it up real fine and there it is. I use around 1/2 of one of those disposable scoops from the commercial detergents. I also add a little dry or liquid bleach and a little borax to help with whitening and odor control. ------------------------- Grandma Herald's Laundry Soap Flakes 1 quart cold water 12 ounce sodium hydroxide 1 cup sugar 1/2 cup borax 2 quarts washed strained grease 1 cup Ammonia scent Pour water in earthenware jar. Pour in lye and stir with wooden stick. Let stand till cold (will take around an hour). Put sugar and borax into an earthenware or enamel vessel and stir well. Pour warm grease into borax mixture and stir well. Add ammonia and stir. Add cooled lye solution to grease mixture. Stir until mixture thickens to fudge consistency. Pour into a mold and let stand overnight. (Use a paper box lined with waxed paper). The soap hardens in a few days. Grate the soap finely into soap flakes and use. Washing fat drippings: Put fat in a large pan with 2 times the amount of water and one sliced potato, washed but not peeled. Boil hard for 30 minutes and strain into another pan. Cool for 24 hours. Cut fat off the top, hold under faucet to wash off scum which forms at the bottom. The fat is now clean and free of salt. Favorite scents: Sassafras, wintergreen, pine. Vegetable dye can be used to color the soap. ------------------------- Laundry Cleaner and Fabric Softener 1 cup soap flakes 1/2 cup borax 1/2 cup vinegar, in rinse cycle You may have to fiddle around with the amounts to fit your machine and type of laundry. This should cut down on rashes from detergent. Fabric softeners are just waxes that melt in the dryer, and evidently they are bad for fabrics, cottons especially (I can't stand the little oily spots they leave all over t-shirts and cotton knits). Bleach your whites about once a month with 1-1/2 c. chlorine bleach, instead of 1/2 c. every wash. ------------------------- Liquid Laundry Soap 2 1/2 gallons distilled water 1 sodium hydroxide, can 7 cups lard, melted 1 cup Ammonia 2 cups borax, or Borateem 3 cups wisk or similar liquid detergent booster Mix in 5 gallon crock or plastic bucket. Add enough water to fill pail. Stir a few minutes till reaches consistency of chicken gravy. Stir a couple times a day until it thickens. It will get like thick lotion and turn white. You can add 1/4 c liquid bluing if you like. Amount to use depends on type of water and size of load (no better directions given). Source: Countryside and Small Stock Journal, Vol 79, No 3: ------------------------- LIQUID SOAP Handmade Liquid Soap - Sugar Plum Sundries - copyrighted In the old days, people made soap using the lye they had leached from wood ashes. This was a long and arduous project, and resulted in a paste-like soap. The reason for the paste consistency was the fact that the lye was Potassium Hydroxide rather than Sodium Hydroxide. Today, you can purchase either variety. The more Potash (Potassium Hydroxide, or KOH) you use, the softer the soap, if you increase the amount of Sodium Hydroxide, your soap will be harder. WARNING! you cannot replace NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide) with KOH in a 1 to 1 swap. It requires approx. 1.4 times as much KOH as NaOH. So, without further ado, here is the recipe 12oz Palm Oil 4oz coconut oil 3.5oz POTASSIUM hydroxide 1 cup water Mix potash lye and water, set aside to cool. melt oils and cool. With lye at 950F and oils at 1150F combine and stir. This is a much warmer reaction than the NaOH soap. You will notice it if you use a big gulp cup and are holding it in your hand. It takes a little longer to trace, about 45-50 minutes. The trace happens suddenly. You can leave this soap in the cup to age if you like, since you will be mixing it with water later (maybe) Age for 2 weeks. If you wish, you may now thin it to a usable consistency. Add water a little at a time, and mix well. A blender works well for this. When you have the thickness you like, Add whatever fragrance you wish to use. This is another good thing about liquid soap, the essential oils need never come in contact with the lye, so the fragrance stays pure. Store it in a bottle or pump jar, and enjoy. ------------------------- Liquid Soap 1 ounce avocado oil 4 ounces coconut oil 11 ounces soybean oil 3.1 ounces lye 8 ounces water Mix as usual per basic instructions Combine water and lye, then added to melted fats. Stir until trace . Allow to sit for a few days until pH tests low. Then slowly stir in extra water to create a liquid soap. ------------------------- Liquid Soap Grate 2 oz (56.7g) of Basic Soap recipe under Bath and Body Bars 8 oz (227g) water Scent or color as desired Gently heat grated soap and water in saucepan. Stir gently until melted. Mix in any additives. Check consistency in a cool water bath. Correct thickness by adding water, thicken by adding more grated soap. Pour into container. Shake every few days to keep smooth. ------------------------- SHAMPOO Soap II -- Pure Soap Mink Oil Shampoo Elaine White 16 oz weight coconut oil 1/2 cup mink oil or (4 T. Castor oil) 2.9 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid oz.) Oil room temperature. Mix and use lye when the water turns clear. Put all ingredients in the blender. Follow the instructions for "Blender Soap" Don't let this soap trace. Process until the mixture is smooth (no oil streaks) and pour it into molds. Leave in molds 2 days Freeze soap 3 hours to release it from the molds. Age 3 weeks. ------------------------- SOAP BALLS Soap balls is a nifty way to get rid of extra soap that won't fill an individual mold or get rid of all those little scrap pieces left over from the shower. There are two easy ways to do this: Method One - For Scraps: Gather together like colors of soap (or you'll end up with an ugly colored ball). Place scraps in a bowl. If they are very small - great, no further work needed. If not, either break them up with a knife or grate the pieces with a vegetable grater. Sprinkle pieces with warm water; let sit 15 minutes to soften. Gather up a handful and squeeze into a ball shape. It will take from two days to two weeks to completely cure in a warm, dry area. Reshape every two days to maintain a round shape. Don't worry about irregularities; they will lend interest to your soap. Method Two - Balls From New Soap: Select your favorite Hand-Milled Soap recipe, but instead of pouring it into individual molds, pour the soap into one large one mold. Place everything in the freezer until it can be cut into blocks and hold its shape. Grate the blocks and allow to dry in a bowl up to a week. While still moist, gather up a handful and squeeze into ball shapes. It will take from two days to two weeks to completely dry in a warm, dry area. Reshape every two days to maintain a round shape. Again, irregularities will make your soap interesting -------------------------Contributors' websites where available: Countryman's Rustic Cuts Soapworks Elaine White's Lather Land Sugar Plum Sundries Tony O'Seland's Cedar Wolf Productions Rainbow Meadow ------------------------- ....Go Back to Recipes Page 1 ....Return to Main Soapmaking Page ...Return to Hand-Milled Soap Page herbal remedies , Pamela Tand <stambrys wrote: > > Bryan, > I make soap. Though at this time I do not make mine organic (it is very > expensive, and the market cannot bear the price I'd have to charge). The > preservative I use is not 100% natural but it is the most natural I can find > and I'm required by law to use one. Sodium and Potassium Hydroxide is made > through a chemical process. However there is another way to do this, with > wood ashes and rain. I've not tried it, as it is dangerous and needs to be > guarded against animals and children. > Do you raise animals? If you do, when you slaughter them do you render the > tallow/fat? That is how soap was originally made, with the sodium > hydroxide/water and tallow/fats. I use botanical oils, and mostly essential > oils. Though for selling I do use fragrance oils for some of my products > (give the customer what they want = being able to pay the rent). I always > try to steer the customers to the products without fragrance oils. > Now I can explain the process of making soap but with this word of caution! > If you try making soaps yourself, you MUST research/read as much as you can > before you start. There are certain things you can/cannot do, the safety > precautions are imperative to follow, there is not much worse then lye burns > (I know by personal experience). > Pam > > > > On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 4:40 PM, Bryan Shillington < > bryan wrote: > > > > > > > Great!!!! > > I'm Bryan, > > Father of one and a blacksmith, wildcrafter, chronic gardener, wood worker, > > roofer and stucco man. > > My wife Kelly likes to cook, make crafty little things, plant seeds and > > hike in the woods. > > My one and a half y/o daughter Zea loves to hide other peoples possessions, > > tend the dirt, plant seeds, play with the rabbit and devour Basil plants. > > You'll find a lot in common with the folks here on Herbal Remedies. :-) > > Please do contribute any knowledge you have!!!!!!! > > > > Does anyone know how to make 100% Organic Soap? > > Does anyone know how to make Vinegar? > > Does anyone have a great Raw recipe? > > How do you use / cook with your gathered edibles. > > > > ~B > > > > > > On 4/20/2010 3:28 PM, Jennifer wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi Everyone, > > > > I'm a mom of four living in PA. We homeschool and we garden. One of the > > things we do is have the children maintain an herb garden. > > > > Next year for our oldest, he will be making soap from the dried hetbs. > > > > Our younger son is maintaining an herbal tea garden. > > > > As for me, I enjoy the medicinal value of herbs. I also love wild > > gathering. > > > > I hope to learn alot here as well as contribute ) > > > > Thanks for having me! > > > > Jennifer in PA > > > > > > > > > > -- > Pamela Tand > Stambry's Crescent Moon Soap Company > stambrys > The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hotmail. Get busy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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