Jump to content
IndiaDivine.org

Liquid soap recipe that I use...

Rate this topic


Guest guest

Recommended Posts

Guest guest

This is based on the Catherine Failor method (although I use my crock pot

instead of actually cooking anything on the stove.)

 

 

 

Olive oil 33 oz

 

Castor oil 10 oz

 

Coconut oil 5 oz

 

 

 

Lye 9.31 oz

 

1lb 2 oz water.

 

 

 

I usually Mix the Lye and the water together and let it cool down cause it

gets soooo hot.

 

 

 

Measure oils, put in crock pot let melt when it’s melted and the lye has

cooled down to approx 110 degrees or less

 

 

 

Make sure the oils are coolish (approx. room temp) too. (Hot oils + Hot lye

water = boil over = not good)

 

 

 

Mix with either a stick blender or spoon (I prefer a rubber spatula that’s

heat resistant) (I put the crock pot on Low just to be sure that I don’t

get a boil over)

 

 

 

If you’ve never made liquid soap before.. trace will come in some different

forms… (looks like milk (what I call the first stage of trace) then it will

start looking like vanilla pudding, and then all of a sudden it will be

harder than anything to stir) what I do at this point is take my spatula and

kind of mush it around in the pot.) Then I let it cook until it’s a golden

color… (sometimes it’s a dark amber color, some times a light straw color,

depending on the type of oils used.) for this recipe it should be a medium

amber color… Kind of like the color of the Neutragena bars and somewhat

transparent. (There you have the paste.) Catherine failor’s book says that

the pH should be between a 9.5 – 10… I myself like it on the low side I

prefer a 7.5-8 In order to test you should either have test strips on hand

or Phenopthalein.. To change the ph use Borax, or Citric acid (If you need

specifics please email me off list). If you get a soap to be that low in

PH you should add a preservative to be safe…you can use Vitamin E or ROE

 

 

 

The cook ends up being 3+ hours (after making soap a couple of times you’ll

understand why I say +) with stirring about every 15 min.

 

 

 

When you are satisfied that it is cooked enough (test the clarity) 1 oz of

soap paste in 2 oz boiling distilled water and let cool to see if there’s

any free floating fatty acids that will cloud the finished soap… If it is

clear enough for you.. You are ready to dilute the soap…

 

 

 

(The soap paste can be diluted all at once or you can keep the paste in the

fridge and dilute when needed.) I like to keep some in the fridge just

cause I’m weird that way. Once you dilute the soap, you can thicken/ dilute

more/ and do pretty much what ever you want to it (color, scent, add other

things)

 

 

 

If you are using this for Foamy bottles I’ve found that after diluting the

soap to 20% soap (2lb of water per lb of paste {If you have 6lbs of paste

you would end up with 12 lbs of soap}), I can fill ¼ of the bottle with soap

mixture and then add water the rest of the way to fill… (Makes for a way

high profit margin, since most of what the person is paying for is the

bottle and the additives and your time)

 

 

 

Now mind you this is paraphrasing and adding information to Failor’s method…

You will find in time that you will modify the way you make soap too to fit

your own personality…

 

 

 

To thicken your soap.. You can use Borax… (dissolve 4 oz borax in 8 oz

distilled water, and add ½ oz to 1 oz per lb of soap stock (add to cooled

soap, the thickening will be more noticeable that way.)) Or you can use

Pickling salt 4TBS pickling salt in 8 oz distilled water, and wait until

*brine* is clear. For every Lb of soap stock add 1-2 TBS of brine, after a

certain point adding any more will cause the soap to become watery and

lessen it’s foaming ability..

 

When you are happy with the thickening of the soap.. time to color and scent

if you wish..

 

 

 

You can also use xanthan gum, Catherine Failor suggests usage at 1% of the

total weight that the diluted soap will weigh..

 

 

 

(this may cloud the soap a bit.)

 

 

 

If you have any questions please feel free to ask. I will not be here on

Saturday, and Sunday, but I will be here the rest of the week.

 

 

 

Jennifer..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dare to dream and go with grace!

 

 

 

Jennifer Janek-Markey

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

On 4/21/06, Jennifer <pixieladie wrote:

>

> This is based on the Catherine Failor method (although I use my crock pot

> instead of actually cooking anything on the stove.)

>

>

>

> Olive oil 33 oz

>

> Castor oil 10 oz

>

> Coconut oil 5 oz

>

>

>

> Lye 9.31 oz

>

> 1lb 2 oz water.

>

>

>

> I usually Mix the Lye and the water together and let it cool down cause it

> gets soooo hot.

>

>

>

> Measure oils, put in crock pot let melt when it's melted and the lye has

> cooled down to approx 110 degrees or less

>

>

>

> Make sure the oils are coolish (approx. room temp) too. (Hot oils + Hot

> lye

> water = boil over = not good)

>

>

>

> Mix with either a stick blender or spoon (I prefer a rubber spatula that's

> heat resistant) (I put the crock pot on Low just to be sure that I don't

> get a boil over)

>

>

>

> If you've never made liquid soap before.. trace will come in some

> different

> forms… (looks like milk (what I call the first stage of trace) then it

> will

> start looking like vanilla pudding, and then all of a sudden it will be

> harder than anything to stir) what I do at this point is take my spatula

> and

> kind of mush it around in the pot.) Then I let it cook until it's a golden

> color… (sometimes it's a dark amber color, some times a light straw

> color,

> depending on the type of oils used.) for this recipe it should be a medium

> amber color… Kind of like the color of the Neutragena bars and somewhat

> transparent. (There you have the paste.) Catherine failor's book says

> that

> the pH should be between a 9.5 – 10… I myself like it on the low side I

> prefer a 7.5-8 In order to test you should either have test strips on

> hand

> or Phenopthalein.. To change the ph use Borax, or Citric acid (If you

> need

> specifics please email me off list). If you get a soap to be that low

> in

> PH you should add a preservative to be safe…you can use Vitamin E or ROE

>

>

>

> The cook ends up being 3+ hours (after making soap a couple of times

> you'll

> understand why I say +) with stirring about every 15 min.

>

>

>

> When you are satisfied that it is cooked enough (test the clarity) 1 oz of

> soap paste in 2 oz boiling distilled water and let cool to see if there's

> any free floating fatty acids that will cloud the finished soap… If it is

> clear enough for you.. You are ready to dilute the soap…

>

>

>

> (The soap paste can be diluted all at once or you can keep the paste in

> the

> fridge and dilute when needed.) I like to keep some in the fridge just

> cause I'm weird that way. Once you dilute the soap, you can thicken/

> dilute

> more/ and do pretty much what ever you want to it (color, scent, add other

> things)

>

>

>

> If you are using this for Foamy bottles I've found that after diluting the

> soap to 20% soap (2lb of water per lb of paste {If you have 6lbs of paste

> you would end up with 12 lbs of soap}), I can fill ¼ of the bottle with

> soap

> mixture and then add water the rest of the way to fill… (Makes for a way

> high profit margin, since most of what the person is paying for is the

> bottle and the additives and your time)

>

>

>

> Now mind you this is paraphrasing and adding information to Failor's

> method…

> You will find in time that you will modify the way you make soap too to

> fit

> your own personality…

>

>

>

> To thicken your soap.. You can use Borax… (dissolve 4 oz borax in 8 oz

> distilled water, and add ½ oz to 1 oz per lb of soap stock (add to cooled

> soap, the thickening will be more noticeable that way.)) Or you can use

> Pickling salt 4TBS pickling salt in 8 oz distilled water, and wait until

> *brine* is clear. For every Lb of soap stock add 1-2 TBS of brine, after a

> certain point adding any more will cause the soap to become watery and

> lessen it's foaming ability..

>

> When you are happy with the thickening of the soap.. time to color and

> scent

> if you wish..

>

>

>

> You can also use xanthan gum, Catherine Failor suggests usage at 1% of the

> total weight that the diluted soap will weigh..

>

>

>

> (this may cloud the soap a bit.)

>

>

>

> If you have any questions please feel free to ask. I will not be here on

> Saturday, and Sunday, but I will be here the rest of the week.

>

>

>

> Jennifer..

>

>

>

Dare to dream and go with grace!

>

>

>

> Jennifer Janek-Markey

>

>

>

>

>

>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

hi Jennifer,

 

I tried your soap today. Feels great. But not sure if I did it

right. When it finished in the crock pot it was almost solid like

bar soap. Also, I put the pot of water boiling. Once it hit

boiling stage I droped in the soap. It came out pretty thick which

is not a problem. I like thick soap. It is like a off white color.

no where near clear. Now this is not necessaryly a problem too

much for me as long as I color it. Is this how it is surpose to

be. I'm not too sure as the appearence it will make. Its not the

prettiest. But it feels good and lather is good.

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

thank you

donna

 

, " Woobey Queen "

<WoobeyQueen wrote:

>

> On 4/21/06, Jennifer <pixieladie wrote:

> >

> > This is based on the Catherine Failor method (although I use my

crock pot

> > instead of actually cooking anything on the stove.)

> >

> >

> >

> > Olive oil 33 oz

> >

> > Castor oil 10 oz

> >

> > Coconut oil 5 oz

> >

> >

> >

> > Lye 9.31 oz

> >

> > 1lb 2 oz water.

> >

> >

> >

> > I usually Mix the Lye and the water together and let it cool

down cause it

> > gets soooo hot.

> >

> >

> >

> > Measure oils, put in crock pot let melt when it's melted and the

lye has

> > cooled down to approx 110 degrees or less

> >

> >

> >

> > Make sure the oils are coolish (approx. room temp) too. (Hot

oils + Hot

> > lye

> > water = boil over = not good)

> >

> >

> >

> > Mix with either a stick blender or spoon (I prefer a rubber

spatula that's

> > heat resistant) (I put the crock pot on Low just to be sure

that I don't

> > get a boil over)

> >

> >

> >

> > If you've never made liquid soap before.. trace will come in some

> > different

> > forms… (looks like milk (what I call the first stage of trace)

then it

> > will

> > start looking like vanilla pudding, and then all of a sudden it

will be

> > harder than anything to stir) what I do at this point is take my

spatula

> > and

> > kind of mush it around in the pot.) Then I let it cook until

it's a golden

> > color… (sometimes it's a dark amber color, some times a light

straw

> > color,

> > depending on the type of oils used.) for this recipe it should

be a medium

> > amber color… Kind of like the color of the Neutragena bars and

somewhat

> > transparent. (There you have the paste.) Catherine failor's

book says

> > that

> > the pH should be between a 9.5 – 10… I myself like it on the

low side I

> > prefer a 7.5-8 In order to test you should either have test

strips on

> > hand

> > or Phenopthalein.. To change the ph use Borax, or Citric acid

(If you

> > need

> > specifics please email me off list). If you get a soap to be

that low

> > in

> > PH you should add a preservative to be safe…you can use Vitamin

E or ROE

> >

> >

> >

> > The cook ends up being 3+ hours (after making soap a couple of

times

> > you'll

> > understand why I say +) with stirring about every 15 min.

> >

> >

> >

> > When you are satisfied that it is cooked enough (test the

clarity) 1 oz of

> > soap paste in 2 oz boiling distilled water and let cool to see

if there's

> > any free floating fatty acids that will cloud the finished soap…

If it is

> > clear enough for you.. You are ready to dilute the soap…

> >

> >

> >

> > (The soap paste can be diluted all at once or you can keep the

paste in

> > the

> > fridge and dilute when needed.) I like to keep some in the

fridge just

> > cause I'm weird that way. Once you dilute the soap, you can

thicken/

> > dilute

> > more/ and do pretty much what ever you want to it (color, scent,

add other

> > things)

> >

> >

> >

> > If you are using this for Foamy bottles I've found that after

diluting the

> > soap to 20% soap (2lb of water per lb of paste {If you have 6lbs

of paste

> > you would end up with 12 lbs of soap}), I can fill ¼ of the

bottle with

> > soap

> > mixture and then add water the rest of the way to fill… (Makes

for a way

> > high profit margin, since most of what the person is paying for

is the

> > bottle and the additives and your time)

> >

> >

> >

> > Now mind you this is paraphrasing and adding information to

Failor's

> > method…

> > You will find in time that you will modify the way you make soap

too to

> > fit

> > your own personality…

> >

> >

> >

> > To thicken your soap.. You can use Borax… (dissolve 4 oz borax

in 8 oz

> > distilled water, and add ½ oz to 1 oz per lb of soap stock (add

to cooled

> > soap, the thickening will be more noticeable that way.)) Or

you can use

> > Pickling salt 4TBS pickling salt in 8 oz distilled water, and

wait until

> > *brine* is clear. For every Lb of soap stock add 1-2 TBS of

brine, after a

> > certain point adding any more will cause the soap to become

watery and

> > lessen it's foaming ability..

> >

> > When you are happy with the thickening of the soap.. time to

color and

> > scent

> > if you wish..

> >

> >

> >

> > You can also use xanthan gum, Catherine Failor suggests usage at

1% of the

> > total weight that the diluted soap will weigh..

> >

> >

> >

> > (this may cloud the soap a bit.)

> >

> >

> >

> > If you have any questions please feel free to ask. I will not

be here on

> > Saturday, and Sunday, but I will be here the rest of the week.

> >

> >

> >

> > Jennifer..

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > Dare to dream and go with grace!

> >

> >

> >

> > Jennifer Janek-Markey

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

Oh yes please please!!!!! I would love to have it!!!!!

 

also don't you sell the " paste " on your website? I looked but couldn't find

it...

 

thanks Chris!!!

the other donna

 

Donna Buchholz

Something Different Soap & Things

www.somethingdifferentsoap.com

Prairie Craft

www.prairie-craft.com coming soon!

-

Christine Ziegler

Hi Donna,

 

In my experience, a liquid soap paste (concentrated base) should come

out to sort of like a Vaseline consistency and translucency. When

diluted, depending on the formula the soap can range from clear as oil

to cloudy to almost pearly. After letting a cloudy soap sit for a while

you will more likely than not notice it separate into clear and cloudy

parts.

 

I personally don't do Failor's method. I find it to be unnecessarily

complicated and I don't get the results I want.

 

I'll be happy to repost my method for anyone who missed the message :)

 

*Smile*

Chris (list mom)

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

Hi Donna,

 

In my experience, a liquid soap paste (concentrated base) should come

out to sort of like a Vaseline consistency and translucency. When

diluted, depending on the formula the soap can range from clear as oil

to cloudy to almost pearly. After letting a cloudy soap sit for a while

you will more likely than not notice it separate into clear and cloudy

parts.

 

I personally don't do Failor's method. I find it to be unnecessarily

complicated and I don't get the results I want.

 

I'll be happy to repost my method for anyone who missed the message :)

 

*Smile*

Chris (list mom)

 

Jasmine & Orange Blossom Floral Waxes

Pre-Buy Special Going On NOW!

<http://www.alittleolfactory.com/> http://www.alittleolfactory.com

 

 

 

d4lacoste

 

hi Jennifer,

 

I tried your soap today. Feels great. But not sure if I did it

right. When it finished in the crock pot it was almost solid like

bar soap. Also, I put the pot of water boiling. Once it hit

boiling stage I droped in the soap. It came out pretty thick which

is not a problem. I like thick soap. It is like a off white color.

no where near clear. Now this is not necessaryly a problem too

much for me as long as I color it. Is this how it is surpose to

be. I'm not too sure as the appearence it will make. Its not the

prettiest. But it feels good and lather is good.

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

thank you

donna

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

Actually, I read about your " paste " from a post on another group...they were

saying how easy it was to use. I will go check out the website again...I have

always wanted to make liquid soap but it just sounded so complicated...I have a

hard enough time with regular soap!!! lol The luxury one sounds soooo nice!!!!

 

thanks!!! I'll watch for the recipe!!

hugs, donna

 

Donna Buchholz

Something Different Soap & Things

www.somethingdifferentsoap.com

Prairie Craft

www.prairie-craft.com coming soon!

-

Christine Ziegler

Wednesday, April 26, 2006 4:24 PM

RE: Liquid soap recipe that I use...

 

 

Hi Donna,

 

I'll send the liquid soap instructions post to the group again right

after this post ...

 

Yes, I do sell the paste. I'm actually about to add 2 new varieties to

the site today - a Hemp Seed Oil one and a luxury one with tropical

butters & oils such as Shea, Mango, Avocado & Macadamia.

 

http://www.alittleolfactory.com/liquidsoapbase.htm

 

*Smile*

Chris (list mom)

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

Hi Donna,

 

I'll send the liquid soap instructions post to the group again right

after this post ...

 

Yes, I do sell the paste. I'm actually about to add 2 new varieties to

the site today - a Hemp Seed Oil one and a luxury one with tropical

butters & oils such as Shea, Mango, Avocado & Macadamia.

 

http://www.alittleolfactory.com/liquidsoapbase.htm

 

*Smile*

Chris (list mom)

 

Jasmine & Orange Blossom Floral Waxes

Pre-Buy Special Going On NOW!

<http://www.alittleolfactory.com/> http://www.alittleolfactory.com

 

 

Donna Buchholz

 

 

Oh yes please please!!!!! I would love to have it!!!!!

 

also don't you sell the " paste " on your website? I looked but couldn't

find it...

 

thanks Chris!!!

the other donna

 

Donna Buchholz

Something Different Soap & Things

www.somethingdifferentsoap.com

Prairie Craft

www.prairie-craft.com coming soon!

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

Donna,

 

Did the paste come out a translucent color before you added the water?

 

This the first recipe I ever made... I did have to sequester it (Let it

settle out after the paste was dissolved)

 

Was the paste translucent at all? Before you put it in the boiling water?

What sounds like is either I gave you the wrong calculations or the paste

wasn't fully saponified, or It could be that using a stick blender

incorporated too much air into it...

 

Did you test the soap's PH before you added it to the boiling water?

 

And Yes Chris I find that Failor's methods are quite complex... and Lengthy.

I'd definitely take a look at Chris' instructions as well. I just haven't

had time to do much, and at this point the bathroom and I are mere

acquaintances.

 

Jennifer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

Tahnk you chris I really appreciate it.

 

Donna

 

, " Christine Ziegler "

<chrisziggy wrote:

>

> Hi Donna,

>

> I'll send the liquid soap instructions post to the group again

right

> after this post ...

>

> Yes, I do sell the paste. I'm actually about to add 2 new

varieties to

> the site today - a Hemp Seed Oil one and a luxury one with tropical

> butters & oils such as Shea, Mango, Avocado & Macadamia.

>

> http://www.alittleolfactory.com/liquidsoapbase.htm

>

> *Smile*

> Chris (list mom)

>

> Jasmine & Orange Blossom Floral Waxes

> Pre-Buy Special Going On NOW!

> <http://www.alittleolfactory.com/> http://www.alittleolfactory.com

>

>

> Donna Buchholz

>

>

> Oh yes please please!!!!! I would love to have it!!!!!

>

> also don't you sell the " paste " on your website? I looked but

couldn't

> find it...

>

> thanks Chris!!!

> the other donna

>

> Donna Buchholz

> Something Different Soap & Things

> www.somethingdifferentsoap.com

> Prairie Craft

> www.prairie-craft.com coming soon!

>

>

>

>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

jennifer,

hi, no it was just like bar soap. To me the only difference was one

stayed in the pot and one was molded. The feel is great very smooth

and silky. Alot like the bar soap I make. The only real thing I

can see it that it is still pretty thick. and the color is like a

off white with a pinch of yellow. Does this sound like a real

problem.

 

donna

 

, " Jennifer " <pixieladie

wrote:

>

> Donna,

>

> Did the paste come out a translucent color before you added the

water?

>

> This the first recipe I ever made... I did have to sequester it

(Let it

> settle out after the paste was dissolved)

>

> Was the paste translucent at all? Before you put it in the boiling

water?

> What sounds like is either I gave you the wrong calculations or

the paste

> wasn't fully saponified, or It could be that using a stick blender

> incorporated too much air into it...

>

> Did you test the soap's PH before you added it to the boiling

water?

>

> And Yes Chris I find that Failor's methods are quite complex...

and Lengthy.

> I'd definitely take a look at Chris' instructions as well. I just

haven't

> had time to do much, and at this point the bathroom and I are mere

> acquaintances.

>

> Jennifer

>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

Hi Donna,

 

From the description you give of it being opaque and white with a tinge

of yellow - it sounds like the soap never went into that " gel " stage ..

?

 

The only other thing I can think of is - did you use for of lye known as

Potassium hydroxide (KOH) used for liquid soap instead of the Sodium

hydroxide (NaOH) used for bar soap?

 

*Smile*

Chris (list mom)

 

Jasmine & Orange Blossom Floral Waxes

LAST DAYS TO ORDER AT PRE-BUY PRICES!

<http://www.alittleolfactory.com> http://www.alittleolfactory.com

 

 

d4lacoste

 

jennifer,

hi, no it was just like bar soap. To me the only difference was one

stayed in the pot and one was molded. The feel is great very smooth

and silky. Alot like the bar soap I make. The only real thing I

can see it that it is still pretty thick. and the color is like a

off white with a pinch of yellow. Does this sound like a real

problem.

 

donna

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

Hi,

 

I used my regular lye when making it> I didn't know it had to be a

different one. Can you get the one i am needing out of stores or do

you have to order it? Thank you for all the help.

 

thank you

donna

 

, " Christine Ziegler "

<chrisziggy wrote:

>

> Hi Donna,

>

> From the description you give of it being opaque and white with a

tinge

> of yellow - it sounds like the soap never went into that " gel "

stage ..

> ?

>

> The only other thing I can think of is - did you use for of lye

known as

> Potassium hydroxide (KOH) used for liquid soap instead of the

Sodium

> hydroxide (NaOH) used for bar soap?

>

> *Smile*

> Chris (list mom)

>

> Jasmine & Orange Blossom Floral Waxes

> LAST DAYS TO ORDER AT PRE-BUY PRICES!

> <http://www.alittleolfactory.com> http://www.alittleolfactory.com

>

>

> d4lacoste

>

> jennifer,

> hi, no it was just like bar soap. To me the only difference was

one

> stayed in the pot and one was molded. The feel is great very

smooth

> and silky. Alot like the bar soap I make. The only real thing I

> can see it that it is still pretty thick. and the color is like a

> off white with a pinch of yellow. Does this sound like a real

> problem.

>

> donna

>

>

>

>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

Donna,

 

Where are you? You can't go to just any grocery store to get it...

You can order it on line. I bought 25lbs the last time a group of soapers

decided to get some but there are a bunch of chemical supply places in and

around Houston and someone usually will make a run and let us know when they

are going to do it...

 

I am sooooo sorry I thought I put that It had to be KOH in stead of Na oh...

 

With what you have it pretty much stays in goooey stage.....I usually make

my " GO JO " with NaOH cause it really gets the Gunk off and it still has that

slimy Go JO feeling... I use the GO JO stuff for gardeners soap...and to

remove oil and grease from my hands after working on the Car (oil/brakes

etc.)

 

Jennifer

 

 

On Behalf Of d4lacoste

Thursday, April 27, 2006 2:51 PM

 

Re: Liquid soap recipe that I use...

 

Hi,

 

I used my regular lye when making it> I didn't know it had to be a

different one. Can you get the one i am needing out of stores or do

you have to order it? Thank you for all the help.

 

thank you

donna

 

, " Christine Ziegler "

<chrisziggy wrote:

>

> Hi Donna,

>

> From the description you give of it being opaque and white with a

tinge

> of yellow - it sounds like the soap never went into that " gel "

stage ..

> ?

>

> The only other thing I can think of is - did you use for of lye

known as

> Potassium hydroxide (KOH) used for liquid soap instead of the

Sodium

> hydroxide (NaOH) used for bar soap?

>

> *Smile*

> Chris (list mom)

>

> Jasmine & Orange Blossom Floral Waxes

> LAST DAYS TO ORDER AT PRE-BUY PRICES!

> <http://www.alittleolfactory.com> http://www.alittleolfactory.com

>

>

> d4lacoste

>

> jennifer,

> hi, no it was just like bar soap. To me the only difference was

one

> stayed in the pot and one was molded. The feel is great very

smooth

> and silky. Alot like the bar soap I make. The only real thing I

> can see it that it is still pretty thick. and the color is like a

> off white with a pinch of yellow. Does this sound like a real

> problem.

>

> donna

>

>

>

>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

I am in louisiana. I am gonna have to try to get some off line.

Thanks for the help.

 

donna

 

, " Jennifer " <pixieladie

wrote:

>

> Donna,

>

> Where are you? You can't go to just any grocery store to get it...

> You can order it on line. I bought 25lbs the last time a group of

soapers

> decided to get some but there are a bunch of chemical supply

places in and

> around Houston and someone usually will make a run and let us know

when they

> are going to do it...

>

> I am sooooo sorry I thought I put that It had to be KOH in stead

of Na oh...

>

> With what you have it pretty much stays in goooey stage.....I

usually make

> my " GO JO " with NaOH cause it really gets the Gunk off and it

still has that

> slimy Go JO feeling... I use the GO JO stuff for gardeners

soap...and to

> remove oil and grease from my hands after working on the Car

(oil/brakes

> etc.)

>

> Jennifer

>

>

>

 

> On Behalf Of d4lacoste

> Thursday, April 27, 2006 2:51 PM

>

> Re: Liquid soap recipe that I use...

>

> Hi,

>

> I used my regular lye when making it> I didn't know it had to be

a

> different one. Can you get the one i am needing out of stores or

do

> you have to order it? Thank you for all the help.

>

> thank you

> donna

>

> , " Christine Ziegler "

> <chrisziggy@> wrote:

> >

> > Hi Donna,

> >

> > From the description you give of it being opaque and white with

a

> tinge

> > of yellow - it sounds like the soap never went into that " gel "

> stage ..

> > ?

> >

> > The only other thing I can think of is - did you use for of lye

> known as

> > Potassium hydroxide (KOH) used for liquid soap instead of the

> Sodium

> > hydroxide (NaOH) used for bar soap?

> >

> > *Smile*

> > Chris (list mom)

> >

> > Jasmine & Orange Blossom Floral Waxes

> > LAST DAYS TO ORDER AT PRE-BUY PRICES!

> > <http://www.alittleolfactory.com>

http://www.alittleolfactory.com

> >

> >

> > d4lacoste

> >

> > jennifer,

> > hi, no it was just like bar soap. To me the only difference was

> one

> > stayed in the pot and one was molded. The feel is great very

> smooth

> > and silky. Alot like the bar soap I make. The only real thing

I

> > can see it that it is still pretty thick. and the color is like

a

> > off white with a pinch of yellow. Does this sound like a real

> > problem.

> >

> > donna

> >

> >

> >

> >

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You are posting as a guest. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...