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Date Feb. 2002

From Aromatherapy

 

Re benzoin as a preservative.

 

In 1992 RIFM (the worlds leading experts in safety issues of all

aromatic extracts), issued new guidelines on the use of Benzoin

extracts in cosmetic products. They recommended that only extracts

processed by methods which eliminated allergens should be used. This

was done because of the numerous cases recorded of benzoin

sensitization many of which are documented and referenced in my

publications.

 

This recommendation still left a major loophole through which

dangerous extracts of benzoin could slip. This is that in the USA

only very large cosmetics suppliers test their products for their

potential skin sensitizing properties. In Europe all cosmetic type

agents must now undergo full safety evaluation. Smaller suppliers do

not do that, and frequently do not have a clue as to whether the

benzoin they purchase is allergen free or not. The cruder the

benzoin the more potential to cause sensitization. Additionally,

benzoin oil most times contains a whole range of powerful chemical

solvents to make it pourable. The crude powder is of course free of

those solvents, but who knows what the heck the variety is being used

and certainly this will contain all of the allergens.

 

Anyone involved in product safety assessment should be familiar with

RIFM guidelines, if they are not familiar with them then they are not

acompetent product assessor.

 

It may be that the use of low levels of benzoin in soap to prevent

rancidity in the fats used is safe. However, RIFM do not make this

distinction in relation to benzoin and their advice does cover soaps

and detergents.

 

Any small suppliers who claim " their 1000 or so customers have NOT

had any problems " are badly misleading people with such statements.

This is the same weak argument we hear time and time again in

aromatherapy. The fact is they DO NOT KNOW. Unless someone

complains of a problem it will not be recorded, and even if someone

goes to a dermatologist the problem may never be traced to a

particular product or specific supplier. Neither small soap makers or

the aromatherapy trade have any system of reporting adverse reactions

to a centralised data gathering resource.

 

Only with such a system can any kind of assessment be made of

problems occuring with products. One person in 1000 getting

sensitized is far to high.

 

The fact that for example benzoic acid is a permitted food additive

has absolutely nothing to do with the use of crude grades of benzoin

resin. For a start whole benzoin will contain traces of dozens to

hundreds of natural chemicals both the good ones and the bad ones.

The exact chemical/s causing sensitization may not be known.

Incidentally, even benzoic acid is a recognised allergen within

dermatology.

 

Secondly, the fact that an extract is used safely in food has little

relationship to the same extract being used in skin care products.

For example a single drop of GENUINE cinnamon bark oil in an apple

pie is fine, but it should never ever be used on the skin unless its

activity has been modified by other additives.

 

In Europe and doubtless in the USA, there is increasing evidence that

a significant number of the population (possibly up to 10%) are

becoming sensitized by the use of routine cosmetic and medicated skin

applications. Therefore the fact something has been used for years is

without any meaning at all in regard to safety. Many people thought

smoking cigarettes was perfectly safe, now look at the results!

 

The incidence of generalised allergic reactions is rising at a

staggering rate throughout the developed world. Part of the causes

are of cause environmental, but part are almost certainly due to what

we put in and ON our bodies.

 

As a herbalist and essential oils educator, give me a well tried and

tested synthetic preservative anyday to a natural one, particularly

when the safety of the natural one has not been adequately tested.

Natural is NOT inevitably safe as many seem to think.

 

Finally for those that do not know, sensitization is not just an

irritation of the skin. It is an immune system response and can be

temporary, but can be with you for LIFE. Those that become cosmetic

ingredient sensitized can have the most appallingly disfiguring skin

conditions, particularly in young women when it is on their face or

neck. No one making so-called 'natural' products should ever forget

what the results can be if they do not educate themselves properly on

safety. Don't think your insurance will cover you, they will opt out

as soon as they learn you have manufactured products against the

advice of best trade practice.

 

Martin Wattt, UK.

-------

Re Benzoin

 

As I promised Tony Burfield, I am putting forward reasons why I

consider this material should not be used for skin application

purposes by anyone.

 

As used by aromatherapists benzoin it is not a 'natural' material.

 

As I explained the other day, all liquid benzoin is the resin

dissolved in a variety of synthetic solvents. In some cases this

leaves the therapist in a vulnerable legal position, although that

will of course depend on their individual insurance policies.

However, the use of synthetic materials is contrary to the declared

principles of aromatherapy as well as to Websters dictionary

definition of what the word means.

 

The use of petrochemical solvents is likely to increase skin

absorption of the sensitising agents in the benzoin resin/s.

 

Various kinds of benzoin preparations are well recognised skin

sensitisers and this is not just from RIFM who advise their members

not to use crude benzoin.

 

I acknowledge that some benzoin resins seem to be allergen free, but

the problem is an aromatherapist has not got a clue what is actually

in the bottle. All they can do is rely on what their supplier tells

them; frequently aromatherapy suppliers in turn rely on what their

suppliers tell them, and on through the chain. I know this trade too

well to have any faith in that method of ascertaining what's in the

bottle.

 

In addition to the RIFM member recommendations we have dozens of

other reports from around the world on what a bad sensitiser benzoin

is. Here are just a few:

 

A comparison study on 300 patients between the use of gum mastic and

benzoin tincture for adhesive wound dressings. 57 patients developed

contact dermatitis to benzoin. J. Dermatol. Surg. Oncol. 1992. Nov.

18. 11. 990.

 

Numerous cases of compound tincture of benzoin sensitivity have been

reported with eczema as the major manifestation. Spott D. & Shelly.

1970. J. Am. Med. Ass. 214 (10) 1881.

 

When used as a preservative, *Benzoic acid* caused adverse

reactions in 8 out of 179 patients with cosmetic dermatitis. de Groot

A. 1993. Adverse Reactions to Cosmetics p.p. 62.

 

Allergic dermatitis was reported following the use of Benzoin for

fissured nipples, as wound dressings, as antiseptics and for hair

preparations. Mitchell J. & Rook 1979. Botanical Dermatology. (out

of print but I got it).

 

Sensitisation to fragrances is fast increasing and yes a lot of that

may be over exposure to synthetic fragrances, but, that can't be

seized on as the sole reason because plant allergens are well known

for being a cause. For example in Denmark it is estimated that 1-2%

of the population has fragrance allergy. (Perfume Causes Allergy.

Danish Environment Internet Edition 2, September 1996: Niels moller

Madsen). I have heard of much higher reported figures in Europe. So

when people try and say these cases are very rare, clearly they have

not studied the available data, 1-2% of the population is a heck of a

high figure. When you look at the statistics of those tested who

already have a skin problem, then the percentage figures zoom up

 

During a 7 year period (1988-1994) 670 patients, 6 months to 12 years

of age, were patch tested with the European standard series. Positive

results were reported in 42% of patients. (Cosmetics and Toiletries

July 1998 V.113 N.7, p47(4)

 

A German study showed 15.3% of 9,835 eczema patients had sensitivity

to fragrance.

 

You must remember I am *only* against its use on the skin, in the

bath, or regularly in the diet. I am not against its use in a heated

oil diffuser in small amounts.

 

Now lets leave aside the sensitisation issue even though I have

dozens of other references. Lets look at what benzoin is used for.

 

Trawling through my aromatherapy novels I find the commonest theme is

the use of benzoin for damaged skin. Yet it is just such a condition

that dramatically increases the chance for sensitisation to occur.

 

Why use benzoin when there are clinically proven skin healing agents

with a very low sensitisation rate such as German Chamomile?

Lavender; not so well clinically proven as a healing agent, but even

I acknowledge it is. Neroli; proven anti inflammatory and anti

microbial (if genuine). Rose; (soothing) traditional use, but more

importantly hardly any reports of adverse skin reactions. There are

a few other oils with traditional and proven actions with minute

adverse reaction rates that will do the job as well as benzoin or

better.

 

Frequently I come across the traditional use of benzoin for cracked

nipples from breast feeding, as a suggested use in aromatherapy

books. As far as I am concerned that is totally contra indicated.

You are far more likely to trigger sensitisation, the baby will get a

dreadful taste as you can't wash benzoin off the skin with anything

other than strong alcohol, and you even stand a chance of sensitising

the babies lips. We have very safe effective ready prepared creams

containing Chamomile extracts, so why toy around with benzoin or even

other essential oils? These creams have been used by millions of

women and I have only seen two recorded cases of an adverse reaction

and even then it is not clear if it was the Chamomile or perhaps more

likely the preservatives used.

 

Many of the aromatherapy suggested uses are to do with psychological

factors. Well in that case why apply it to the skin at all.

Fragrance works via the nose not the skin! So use it in a diffuser if

you must.

 

It looks as if many of the suggested uses in aromatherapy have been

extrapolated from the old pharmacopoeias. I have most of them and

interestingly most of the past medical uses do not advocate the

material in massage. They used it in things like skin creams, in

tinctures for application to wounds, for inhalants and internally.

Those old uses were perfectly valid as often they had no alternative

treatment available. Now we do, and now we also know a heck of a lot

more about adverse skin reactions. In the past these mattered far

less than curing the infection that might be present in a wound.

 

Sadly I have heard that benzoin is still used in some hospitals. No

one should ever assume therefore that this means the stuff is safe to

use. The medical profession are notorious for not taking into

account know adverse effects of drugs, let alone traditionally used

materials like benzoin. Unless you look you do not find, they are

the source of most adverse reaction reports.

 

So without turning this into a book, I just want to know why

aromatherapists insist on using a material that does have significant

risks associated with it and is NOT NATURAL, while on the other hand

we have materials that are safe, natural and will do the job as well

or probably better?

Martin Watt, UK

 

-----------------------

Aromatherapy

 

Benzoin my final reply

 

I acknowledged in my article that there may be safe varieties of

benzoin. Even RIFM acknowledge that (see below). However Tony you

confirm my point about how the heck is an aromatherapist supposed to

know what is in the bottle they buy. You know as well as I do the

supply trade often do not have a clue on the exact botanical origin

of most oils/resins. So unless someone takes the bull by the horns

and markets a benzoin from verified botanical sources, or processed

in such a way as to remove the allergens, and can prove it, and other

oil suppliers don't then lie about what they are really selling(as

they often do), then all we can do for safetys sake is say-OK we

don't use the stuff.

 

I have seen a reaction to benzoin on a lady in her mid 30s and on her

chin. She used it because of what the aromatherapy books say and as

a result may be sensitised for life. I truly hope not, but that is a

dreadful thing for a supposed 'caring' profession to be responsible

for.

 

RIFM member guidelines are not always published but I have seen them

and they say: " The I.F.R.A. recommends that styrax gums and

resinoids should not be used as fragrance ingredients. Only

preparations free of the sensitising allergens should be used. This

is based on research indicating the potent sensitising potential of

gums and resinoids of Asian and American styrax, but absence of

sensitising reactions from samples obtained by refluxing with aqueous

alkali, solvent extraction, washing the extracts to neutrality and

removal of the solvent. Only extracts or distillates (resinoids,

absolutes or oils), prepared from Liquidambar orientalis Mill., can

be used and should not exceed a level of 0.6% in consumer products " .

 

Now as to the use of other absolutes: This is not remotely

compatible to the use of benzoin. Genuine floral absolutes should

contain no more than a few parts per billion of the solvents used to

process them. Those levels are set at a level assuming consumption

as food flavours. With benzoin we are dealing with massively higher

levels of solvents in the resin, indeed in some samples as you know,

the bulk of the product is a synthetic solvent.

 

Tony said:

>The " benzoin oils " on the market I have analysed have<

>proven to be synthetic reconstruction's in a high boiling solvent.<

 

Well what more can I say, I rest my case?

Martin.

--------

 

Reply to

I have no more to say on benzoin that is of any practical use and I

emphasise 'practical'. Clearly no one knows precisely what types of

benzoin resulted in the many cases of adverse reactions. Clearly

few aromatherapy suppliers have got the slightest idea on what they

are selling.

 

It is for the supply trade working with dermatology testing

facilities to get their act together if they want to ensure benzoin

extracts are safe. It is also in the public interest that such

information is passed down the chain so the consumer knows exactly

what they are using (some hopes)! I see little indication of this

occurring, but am ready to be corrected if I am wrong.

 

So until that occurs, I insist that aromatherapists are using an

unreliable semi synthetic material fraught with dangers, and can

anyway be substituted for far safer natural extracts.

 

Martin Watt.

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> As a herbalist and essential oils educator, give me a well tried

and tested synthetic preservative anyday to a natural one,

particularly when the safety of the natural one has not been

adequately tested. Natural is NOT inevitably safe as many seem to

think.<

 

Ok, if you had the choice between a lotion made by someone

knowledgeable about herbs and essential oils, that was " self

preserved " using only all natural ingredients; and that lotion was

safety testing including a standard Bacterial Essay, Challenge

Testing and Shelf Life Testing to determine the formula that works

and is safe - vs. - a lotion that was made using a forumla from an

online discussion group and the person felt it was safe to sell

because they added the maximum suggested amount of a paraben

preservative to their batch? I know which I'd pick...the natural

lotion.

 

It seems to me that many of the people trying to make the most

natural product possible know they have the additional challenge of

adequate preservation and concern over the safety of the other

ingredients such as EOs - as opposed to the people who make products

with synthetic fragrances labeled " skin safe " and adding the most

preservatives they think they can get away with, and who " guess "

their product is safe because they are told these

preservatives " work " and they are told the FOs are safe while EOs

are " dangerous " .

 

The debate is often reduced to the natural formulator " must " be

risking safety and the only way to know for sure your product is safe

is to buy synthetic preservatives and add in the most you can get

away with. It's the illusion of manufacturing a safe product, not an

actual safe product. They don't bother to perform even the most

BASIC tests when going synthetic, because the actual " ingredients "

say " skin safe " ...so they assume their PRODUCT is safe.

 

Now, I don't mean every homemade/handcrafted cosmetics maker falls

into one " camp " , there are plenty people who make natural products

who don't test anything and I am sure there are some who make

primarily synthetic products who do...but in general it " seems " from

my years reading, participating, and yes debating natural

ingredients...the anti-natural people feel their products are safer

in spite of not testing them and the pro-natural people seem to

research the individual ingredients more simply because they know

they will be under additional scrutiny.

 

>one making so-called 'natural' products should ever forget what the

results can be if they do not educate themselves properly on safety.

Don't think your insurance will cover you, they will opt out as soon

as they learn you have manufactured products against the advice of

best trade practice.<

 

I'd guess 99.9% of the people selling handmade/handcrafted cosmetics

don't carry any insurance. Natural or synthetic. I know this too has

been discussed many, many times and the excuse is often " it's too

expensive...I'll just take my chances. "

 

Sue

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I have read it all through and agree in re checking my formulas. NO doubts about

it and try to find some substitute for benzoin

Altough you admit that the tears of benzoin have no toxic solvents. That

dissolved in water, the alergen is diluted into part per billion.

let it be clear I never used benzoin oil resin, but the dried sap of the tree,

Never in liquid form, but solid in form of tears. That thing that they used as

remedy for lungs in the bible .

 

I even have a better idea. I am going to translate the text above and present

to my clients. For them to know what are the risks of using my Rosacea lotion

and try and change it for a different ingredient, like copaíba, for example or

alfa bisabolol, both very easy to find and cheap to use and as effective as

benzoin to treat their rosacea.

I thank you a lot for the attention you gave and will always look for your

suggestions when I prepare a new formulation

By the way, vanillin is made out of benzoin oil and nobody said anything about

it but keep aromatizing their cakes and ice creams with it. Should you not make

an alarm in the food industry or it only concerns when is skin sensitization?

Tnakfully

Ane*

 

 

 

Search

Música para ver e ouvir: You're Beautiful, do James Blunt

 

 

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> Altough you admit that the tears of benzoin have no toxic solvents.

That dissolved in water, the alergen is diluted into part per billion.<

 

I understood him to say that they do NOT dissolve in water. That is

what I understood from my studying over the years as well. Which went

back to my question...if they did dissolve in water then they would be

washed off the trees by rain and not even BE there to collect. Sue

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Martin Watt

Now I remember your name ...

You are the guy who sells mole and earthworm oil to put in cosmetics...

I know I could trust my memory (if not my knowledge...)

 

Many regards...

Ane* from Brazil

 

 

 

 

Search

Música para ver e ouvir: You're Beautiful, do James Blunt

 

 

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From http://encyclopedia.thefreedictionary.com/vanillin

 

Artificial vanilla flavoring is a solution of pure vanillin, usually of

synthetic origin. Because of the scarcity and expense of natural vanilla

extract, there has long been interest in the synthetic preparation of

its predominant component. The first commercial synthesis of vanillin

began with the more readily available natural compound eugenol

<http://encyclopedia.thefreedictionary.com/eugenol>. Isomerization to

isoeugenol, followed by oxidation provides vanillin. Currently, the

industrial processes for creating vanillin involve formylation

<http://encyclopedia.thefreedictionary.com/formylation+reaction> of

guaiacol <http://encyclopedia.thefreedictionary.com/guaiacol> (by the

Reimer-Tiemann reaction

<http://encyclopedia.thefreedictionary.com/Reimer-Tiemann+reaction>) and

also the fermentation of lignin

<http://encyclopedia.thefreedictionary.com/lignin>, a natural

constituent of wood <http://encyclopedia.thefreedictionary.com/wood>

which is a byproduct of the paper industry.

 

Shelley

 

 

 

ane walsh wrote:

> By the way, vanillin is made out of benzoin oil and nobody said anything

about it but keep aromatizing their cakes and ice creams with it. Should you not

make an alarm in the food industry or it only concerns when is skin

sensitization?

> Tnakfully

> Ane*

>

>

 

 

 

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>You are the guy who sells mole and earthworm oil

No, those are really OLD jokes. Written to show what rubbish is

promoted by some authors, on web sites and several newsgroups. Most

people understood that of course.

 

Martin watt

 

, ane walsh <sagullinha7

wrote:

>

> Martin Watt

> Now I remember your name ...

> You are the guy who sells mole and earthworm oil to put in

cosmetics...

> I know I could trust my memory (if not my knowledge...)

>

> Many regards...

> Ane* from Brazil

>

>

>

>

> Search

> Música para ver e ouvir: You're Beautiful, do James Blunt

>

>

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>That dissolved in water, the alergen is diluted into part per

>billion.

You keep saying this, but benzoin resin does not dissolve in water.

Therefore I am at a loss to know what it is you are using.

 

>I never used benzoin oil resin, but the dried sap of the tree

Benzoin resin IS the dried sap of the tree.

 

>That thing that they used as remedy for lungs in the bible

It is not possible to be certain about many of the herbs written

about in the Bible. That text is a compilation of manuscripts from a

huge geographic area and with many mis-translations. If in that area

they imported Benzoin is not clear. They may have done, but I do not

know for certain. In any case, the fact a remedy was used in

traditional medicine that far back does not make it acceptable

nowadays on safety and other grounds. Many herbs and oils or resins

are now known to be very dangerous and some are banned. The simple

fact is there are several essential oils that will heal better and

safer than benzoin. It is a huge problem in America in particular,

that people take formulas out of old books and recreate them without

a second thought on what modern knowledge knows about the ingredients.

 

>and change it for a different ingredient, like copaíba

Copaiba can also be a skin sensitiser, but not as bad as benzoin. one

person in 25 reacted in tests. That is far too high a number, so I

would not use it to heal damaged skin.

 

>vanillin is made out of benzoin oil

As I said in an earlier post, many fragrance chemicals are made from

natural starting materials. However, the chemical processes used

will often remove allergens making the final substance far safer than

the crude natural one.

 

I really wonder what your training is in this area. Are you a

traditional herbalist, aromatherapist, or what? To make safe

effective products you do need more than self education.

 

Martin Watt

http://www.aromamedical.com

, ane walsh <sagullinha7

wrote:

>

> I have read it all through and agree in re checking my formulas. NO

doubts about it and try to find some substitute for benzoin

> Altough you admit that the tears of benzoin have no toxic

solvents. That dissolved in water, the alergen is diluted into part

per billion.

> let it be clear I never used benzoin oil resin, but the dried sap

of the tree, Never in liquid form, but solid in form of tears. That

thing that they used as remedy for lungs in the bible .

>

> I even have a better idea. I am going to translate the text above

and present to my clients. For them to know what are the risks of

using my Rosacea lotion and try and change it for a different

ingredient, like copaíba, for example or alfa bisabolol, both very

easy to find and cheap to use and as effective as benzoin to treat

their rosacea.

> I thank you a lot for the attention you gave and will always look

for your suggestions when I prepare a new formulation

> By the way, vanillin is made out of benzoin oil and nobody said

anything about it but keep aromatizing their cakes and ice creams

with it. Should you not make an alarm in the food industry or it only

concerns when is skin sensitization?

> Tnakfully

> Ane*

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, " CT HERB " <Email wrote:

>

> >

Sue,

Of cours you have seen pine resin when a tree is cut, haven't you? Well

it is almost the same with benzoin.

You have heard of Bach florals too. And of course you know how to make

them, don't you?

Now put the two ideas together.

Did it click?

Ane * From Brazil (already getting tired)

 

 

 

Altough you admit that the tears of benzoin have no toxic solvents.

> That dissolved in water, the alergen is diluted into part per

billion.<

>

> I understood him to say that they do NOT dissolve in water. That is

> what I understood from my studying over the years as well. Which went

> back to my question...if they did dissolve in water then they would

be

> washed off the trees by rain and not even BE there to collect. Sue

>

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, " CT HERB " <Email wrote:

>

> >

Sue,

Of course you have seen pine resin when a tree is cut, haven't you?

Well it is almost the same with benzoin. The rain does not wash it.

You have heard of Bach florals too. And of course you know how to make

them, don't you?

Now put the two ideas together.

Did it click? Benzoin water is something like that.

Ane * From Brazil (already getting tired)

 

 

 

Altough you admit that the tears of benzoin have no toxic solvents.

> That dissolved in water, the alergen is diluted into part per

billion.<

>

> I understood him to say that they do NOT dissolve in water. That is

> what I understood from my studying over the years as well. Which went

> back to my question...if they did dissolve in water then they would

be

> washed off the trees by rain and not even BE there to collect. Sue

>

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> Sue,

> Of course you have seen pine resin when a tree is cut, haven't you?<

 

Sure...I live in CT...plenty of pine trees.

 

> Well it is almost the same with benzoin. The rain does not wash it.

You have heard of Bach florals too. And of course you know how to make

them, don't you?<

 

Yes, they are more like homeopathy; energy medicine.

 

> Now put the two ideas together. Did it click? Benzoin water is

something like that.<

 

Except Resins are insoluble in water.

 

Here is an easy to understand article:

 

" A Brief Overview of GUMS, RESINS, RESINOIDS By Jeanne Rose

 

1. Gums can be natural or synthetic. Our discussion only allows for

natural gums.

 

Strictly speaking, gums are always water-soluble. As an

example: Gum acacia, Gum Tragacanth.

 

Acacia gum (Acacia senegal ) also called gum arabic. Water

soluble and when dissolved in boiling water, clarifies and makes a very

good adhesive that is used, among other things, to make scented beads

and pomanders. The gum is edible, nutritive, and acts as a demulcent

to soothe irritated mucous membranes. It is also an ingredient in

medicinal compounds for diarrhea, dysentery, coughs and catarrh. The

bark of the acacia plant is very rich in tannin. (Herbs & Things)

 

Resins are sometimes called gums. However, gums form solutions

or " sols " with water, resins do not. Resins are insoluble in water.

 

The word " gum " is truly an herbal term, as gums are used in

herbalism to make sticky solutions in cosmetics, or to adhere dry

ingredients together.

 

2. Gum resin. Extruded naturally from plants or trees. Consist of

both a gum and a resin, sometimes with a small amount of EO.

 

Example: Benzoin. "

 

continued...www.jeannerose.net/articles/gums_resins_resinoids.html

 

Sue

 

"

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