Guest guest Posted November 5, 2008 Report Share Posted November 5, 2008 Reading the posts about herb beads reminded me of the recipes to make beads from rose petals. Here is some info on different methods. Cynthia Making Rose Beads There are nearly as many recipes for rose beads as there are varieties of roses. The common ingredient is rose petals, and the very simplest recipe calls for mashing the petals into a paste, then molding and drying the beads. The best roses to use for making beads are old-fashioned varieties such as Damask roses, apothecary roses, or cabbage roses. The petals of hybrid tea and floribunda roses have insufficient essential oils, and beads made from them may look rusty and lack fragrance when dried. Gather roses on a dry day when flowers are in full bloom, using only roses that haven't been treated with pesticides. It is best to gather them in the morning before the day's heat has affected the plant. Gather about 2 gallons volume of petals (about a shopping bag full), and cut away the white base of the petals. Although the Victorians used a mortar and pestle to mash their roses, a meat grinder or food processor will achieve the same effect. Traditionally the paste was processed in an iron pot. The oxidation of the iron affords a deep, rich, black color to the beads. If you want your beads a natural color (depending on the color of the roses you use they will be a pale rosy brown to a deep burgundy brown), dispense with the iron pot and use an enamel pot. Aluminum is not recommended. At this point, many recipes direct you to repeat the grinding process daily for anywhere from 3 days to two weeks! The more often you grind it, the smoother and richer your pulp will become. You can add a bit of water or rose water, just enough to barely cover the chopped roses. This is the time to add fixatives and binders. Fragrances evaporate over time and fixatives will slow the process. Gum Benzoin and Ground Orris Root are two botanicals used for their fixative qualities in aromatics. They add scent as well. Gum Benzoin is a resin with a strong fragrance resembling vanilla. It should be finely ground and used 1 oz. per 2 quarts of flowers. Ground Orris Root has a fragrance resembling violets, that improves with age and lasts for years. It can be used in the same or greater ratio. Your beads will last longer if you add one or more fixatives. Guar Gum and Gum Arabic are resins with superior binding qualities. Adding a small amount of one of these in a powdered form will " bind " your rose pulp, making your beads easier to form and more resiliant when dried. You can choose to cook your rose pulp, or let it rest in the pot. Either way, don't let it dry out. If you choose the more elaborate (cooking) process, heat your pulp very gently for about an hour. DO NOT BOIL! Set the pot aside and repeat the heating process for three consecutive days, adding just enough water to cover, if necessary. More modern recipes call for one session of slow heat for several hours, while Victorian recipes say to leave the mixture on the stove for five days, and heat slowly, but DO NOT BOIL, daily. When your rose " dough " is " done " and ready to mold, oil your fingers with a few drops of rose oil. Not only will the oil keep the " dough " from sticking to your fingers, it will add scent to the mixture. The molding process can get messy. The pulp can stain surfaces and clothing, as well as your skin. You might want to work on a plastic mat or tablecloth. Form your beads by cutting with a thimble, rolling " snakes " and slicing off sections, or simply pinching off small bits of dough and rolling with your fingers. Keep in mind that the beads will shrink up to 50% during the drying process. There are many methods of piercing the bead. Some recipes call for forming the bead around a large needle or an oiled bamboo skewer, and letting them partially dry before removing them. Other recipes advise drying the bead for a few days, then piercing with a large heated needle threaded with nylon twine. As the beads are pierced, they can be strung onto the line for further drying. It can take up to two weeks for the beads to completely dry, depending on the weather. It is important to twirl and slide the beads back and forth, several times a day to prevent sticking. When your beads are thoroughly dry you can lightly polish them with fine sand paper, buff them with a flannel cloth and string them onto a necklace. Don't coat them with varnish or lacquer for that would hold in the smell. As you wear your rose beads the oils from your skin will darken and polish them and the warmth of your body will release their fragrance. ROSE BEADS 2 .. Pick a large quantity of heavily scented rose petals, preferably early morning on a dry day. Put into a blender and reduce to a pulp. Spread the pulp on a large flat dish (glass or earthenware) and place in the refrigerator. Repeat the process for the next few days. Leave for a further 24 hrs in a cool place without adding any more petals. Mold the pulp into bead shapes between the palms of your hands. Leave to dry again for 24 hrs before piercing with a bodkin or darning needle. Put onto a baking tray and dry in a slow oven as you would with salt dough beads. The beads will shrink when dried so you have to make allowances when shaping and forming the hole. Pale colored petals will brown when dried and red and crimson will keep their color. Other Techniques Will give beads a traditional deep, almost black color. In a cast-iron cooking container, place a quart of fresh, finely minced rose petals, a cup of water, a few drops of rose oil to enhance the scent, and a handful of rusty nails. Simmer, covered, for 1 hour. Remove from heat, stir well with a wooden spoon, and let it stand overnight. Repeat the next day, and the next, adding water if necessary, un¬til the doughy mixture has darkened. Then set aside until it dries to a claylike consistency that can be easily molded. Wet your hands and roll into balls a little larger than a marble. (They will shrink about 50 percent as they dry.) Place on paper towels. When they are partly dry, thread a large needle with dental floss, string the beads, and hang them to dry. Turn them regularly so that they don't stick to the floss. In a week, your rose beads are ready for their final stringing, alternated with small, pretty beads used as spacers. Add a clasp and store in an airtight container to preserve the scent. Rose Beads 3 Spiced Rose Beads 1 lb red rose petals, strongly scented and trimmed of the hard white bit at the base 1 tsp each ground cinnamon and cloves Put the rose petals in an enamel or stainless steel saucepan and barely cover them with water. Heat gently, keeping them below simmering point for 1 hour. DO NOT let them boil. Leave for 24 hours. Reheat for 1 hour, leave for 24 hours. Repeat again, adding spices the third time. You should now have a smooth paste. Put greaseproof paper on a baking sheet. Wet hands lightly and roll small portions into even balls. Put them on the paper and leave for a day or so in a warm, dry place. When they become clay-like in texture, make your hole for the thread and do any other decorating you'd like to. Leave until completely dry and very hard (time frame varies greatly, sorry). If you don't have access to fresh rose petals, try this one, using a rose fragrance: Fragrant Beads 1 ounce powdered gum benzoin 1 ounce powdered gum acacia 1/2 ounce powdered orris root 1 ounce powdered mixed spice (cinnamon, clove, whatever) 2 tablespoons vegetable glycerin 10-15 drops essential oil of your choice Combine all ingredients and mix well. Follow forming and drying procedure as above. (Note from me - you can replace the spices with ground red sandalwood and it is heavenly! I also left out the orris root, as I'm allergic to it, with no ill effects. Just upped the other solids to make up the difference.) Making Rose Petal Beads Susan Belsinger This is a complex process but the result is *truly* worth it. These are some of the most beautiful and pleasant beads... very nice look and a sweet, floral scent! You will need: 2-3 quarts clean rose petals Large stainless steel pot Water Blender or food processor Jelly bag or cheesecloth Iron pot or skillet Rubber gloves Tray Newspapers Paper towels Rose essential oil Plastic containers with tight fitting lids 1/2 teaspoon measuring spoon 3/64th inch wide brass wire, cut into 12 inch lengths Empty small box or styrofoam tray Glass jars with lids Fine sandpaper Unwaxed dental floss An assortment of other kinds of beads, if desired MAKING THE MASH: Place the rose petals in the stainless steel pot with water to cover, about one quart. Bring the contents to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer slowly for 2 to 6 hours, stirring occasionally. You can cook the petals all day or cook them for a while one day, turn off the heat, and finish up the next day. The longer you cook the petals, the more the cellulose breaks down and the easier the job of pureeing the mash. In the blender or food processor, puree the cooled mash in batches. Add just enough extra water to each batch to enable the machine to puree it thoroughly at the highest speed. The finer the mash, the smoother and more uniform the bead. Drain the mash through the jelly bag or cheesecloth to remove any excess water. SLOW COOKING: Place the drained, pureed mash into the iron pot or skillet. When the mash is cooked in iron, a chemical reaction of the acid in the petals with the iron turns it black. (Once the mash turns black, it badly stains what ever it touched, so wear rubber gloves and old clothes when working with it.) Because the mash will remove the patina from an iron pot, use an old one. Cook the mash, covered, over the lowest heat possible, stirring occasionally, for 2 or 3 days, or until it is black and the consistency of soft cream cheese. You can cook it for a few hours, turn it off, and finish cooking it later. Keep it covered to prevent a crust from forming. The mash can also be baked, covered, at 250F for 1 to 2 days. COOLING, DRAINING: Layer the tray thickly with newspapers and cover with a layer of paper towels. (The mash will stick to newspaper but not to paper towels.) Turn the mash out to cool on the prepared tray, and cover it with another layer of paper towels. Let it drain. Change the newspaper padding when the mash has soaked through; this can take a few hours or overnight and may need to be done two or three times. Add a few drops of rose essence to the mash - 6 or 7 drops to one cup mash - and knead it in. You can make beads now or store the mash. To store, pack the mash into plastic containers with tight fitting lids and refrigerate for as long as a week or freeze for a few months. The mash can be thawed and refrozen as necessary. ROLLING: For each bead, measure out a slightly rounded 1/2 teaspoon of mash: the bead will shrink to about one-third its original size as it dries. Wearing gloves, knead each piece of mash in the palm of your hand to make sure it is smooth. With firm, even pressure, roll each bead between your palms until it is round. If the bead shows any cracks while you are rolling, dip the beads in a little water or rubbing alcohol and smooth them out, as the cracks will become bigger as the beads dry. DRYING: Carefully slide the beads onto wires to dry. The wire should pierce the center of each bead. Use brass wire because it does not rust. Place ten beads on 12-inches of wire, making sure that the beads do not touch each other. Lay the wires across the empty box or styrofoam tray so that the beads are suspended and do not touch the bottom of the container. Keep the beads at room temperature and away from any drafts. If the beads dry too fast, they will crack; if it is cold or damp, they may mold. During the first week, turn the beads daily, sliding them back and forth a little on the wire to keep them from sticking. Leave the beads on the wire for another week or two, or until they are completely dry. Remove the beads from the wires and store them in tightly covered glass jars, which help retain their perfume until you are ready to string them. After removing a batch of rose beads, sand the wires with fine sandpaper to smooth them in preparation for the next batch. FINISHING: Bead onto double strands of unwaxed dental floss. You can use small gold beads as spacers, or if you are talented in special bead crafting, you can make more complicated bead arrangements for rosaries and the sort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You are posting as a guest. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.