Guest guest Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 next time to go www.sfgate.com and search " vegetarian " or sometimes cut and paste the link which is a computer trick, then your link will work or posters like me so go to www.tinyurl.com to make the link easier shorter, I figured people will find a way to figure it out. I'm super busy finding more info, so I'll take more time next time. http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/09/19/FDASS2Q30.DTL & hw=veg\ etarian & sn=001 & sc=1000 The Accidental Vegetarian: Chefs have no beef with mock meat Amanda Berne, Special to The Chronicle Wednesday, September 19, 2007 <!-- OAS_RICH('x90'); //--> <SCRIPT language='JavaScript1.1' SRC= " http://ad.doubleclick.net/adj/N2998.SFGate.com/B2368472.20;abr=!ie;sz=88x31\ ;ord=902967547? " > </SCRIPT> <NOSCRIPT> <A HREF= " http://ad.doubleclick.net/jump/N2998.SFGate.com/B2368472.20;abr=!ie4;abr=!\ ie5;sz=88x31;ord=902967547? " > <IMG SRC= " http://ad.doubleclick.net/ad/N2998.SFGate.com/B2368472.20;abr=!ie4;abr=!ie5\ ;sz=88x31;ord=902967547? " BORDER=0 WIDTH=88 HEIGHT=31 ALT= " Click Here " ></A> </NOSCRIPT> document.getElementById('fontpopup').onmouseout = sfgate_chfont_mo; The Accidental Vegetarian Archive sfgate_get_fprefs(); For a rousing round of dinner roulette, bring a vegetarian out to eat and watch chefs scurry to cobble together a suitable meal. Will it be risotto or pasta? A large plate of all the finest vegetable sides? Those are often good, but these piecemeal entrees can give non-meat eaters an inferiority complex. Yet, a quick survey of some fun, funky Bay Area restaurants reveals some hidden gems that let vegetarians and vegans move out of the poor eating relation category to full-fledged members of the dining-out set. It's all about the fake meat. Although carnivores have derided vegetarians' use of such gems as mock bacon, the original meat substitutes - tempeh, tofu, and seitan - have been working hard for years in Buddhist cultures as stand-ins for duck, pork, chicken and beef in traditional regional dishes. While tofu has been commonplace, chefs are now playing with the other faux products. Instead of just being stand-ins, they take center stage. A stroll down the grocery store freezer aisle reveals options like fake riblets, chicken nuggets and bacon. Imitations are made with various soy, wheat and whole grain products, and restaurants are experimenting with what's available or making their own products, like seitan, from scratch. Although many of the imitation processed products were and are dreadful, the overall variety and quality of the seitan, tempeh and tofu has improved. They come in a range of firmness, with an option for whole grain, cooked, raw and pre-marinated. They all cook quickly, making dinner from scratch as easy to do as putting those mock nuggets and riblets in the oven. Seitan, tempeh and tofu are the building blocks many chefs and vegetarian home cooks often use due to their high protein, low fat and robust vitamin content. Wheat gluten, also known as seitan (pronounced " say-than " ), is made by removing the starch from flour, leaving the gluten, which is made into a flour. Liquids can be added to the gluten flour and the mass is kneaded into a spongy, doughlike ball. Seitan was first developed in China, where it was used to replace meat in dishes served to Buddhists. It became popular in Western countries in the 1950s when the macrobiotic diet gained more attention. It is high in protein (with more grams per serving than tofu), low in calories and fat, and freezes beautifully for four months. Seitan is a great replacement for soy, and most commonly is used in preparations that emulate chicken or other poultry. While wheat gluten was once available mainly in Asian markets, now major supermarkets carry it in the refrigerated section, and stock products made with this wheat meat in the freezer aisle. It's not difficult to make seitan from scratch using Vital wheat gluten or wheat gluten flour. Brad Levy, chef-owner of Firefly in San Francisco, flavors homemade gluten depending on what he's making that night - basil, oregano and garlic for Italian dishes; five-spice, ginger and garlic for Chinese dishes. By flavoring the seitan flour with Italian seasonings before adding water or stock to make a dough, Levy can then use the sausages in sandwiches, for breakfast, or chopped into a vegetarian Bolognese. The texture is bouncy, but when used in appropriate preparations it adds just the necessary chew to dishes like stews, stuffed vegetables or hearty sauces. Levy has had seitan on the menu since Firefly opened in 1993 He wanted to provide options, including vegan items, that " catered to everyone. " " I know so many couples where one is vegetarian and the other is not, " he says. " They always end up having one making sacrifices when they eat out. " At Weird Fish, a fish-meets-vegan restaurant in the Mission District, many of the dishes incorporate seitan, tempeh or tofu. I never missed the chicken in Buffalo Girls (see recipe), a seitan version of the classic bar wings. Though it takes a few steps to make at home, the payoff comes when biting into the crisp-coated, spicy snack. " Everyone is sick of tofu because when people started going in the direction of fake meat, that was your first meat substitute, " says Weird Fish owner Peter Hood. Seitan has a very different texture than tofu. " Even firm tofu isn't as sturdy as seitan, " he points out. Eric Tucker, the chef of Millennium, the vegan restaurant near Union Square, prefers tempeh as a main ingredient. While much of his menu relies on vegetables rather than meat substitutes - " We don't do big slabs emulating a cut of beef any more, " he says - he usually offers one seitan-based and one tempeh-based entree. His Tempeh Picadillo Empanada filling recipe is versatile and spiced enough to be used as a stuffing for vegetables, served plain over rice, or as a filling for empanadas. Tempeh is a high-protein, fermented soybean cake originally created in Indonesia. It can be baked or grilled, and in Indonesia it is often deep-fried before being added to curries. It has a crumbly texture that makes it a good substitute for ground meat in chili and ragus. Tempeh is more robust and mushroomy than seitan, so it should be used in preparations that call for strong flavors. And, it requires eight to 10 minutes to be cooked through. Tempeh is porous and can soak up a lot of flavor, so it's typically marinated before it's cooked. On its own, tempeh is low in calories, but high in protein and B vitamins. It can be kept refrigerated for 10 days, or frozen for several months. Tofu, the " meat substitute " most people are familiar with, can be used in any of these recipes, though the texture will change. Whereas the seitan provides a nice, chewy texture within the crisp crust in the Buffalo Girls, tofu would be softer and moister inside, and the crust might not remain crisp. Tofu provides calcium, protein and other minerals, including B vitamins, iron and potassium. It can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week, as long as it's covered in water that's changed daily. Tofu can also be frozen for a few months, but the texture will change. It should be defrosted then squeezed as dry as possible. The tofu will be a bit spongier, but is ideal for saucy dishes. Tofu is often included on standard menus, but a recipe from Ryan Scott of Myth Cafe, is more unusual. His Tofu Aioli (see recipe) can be used in place of mayonnaise, or leave it thicker as a great dip. It makes a fine substitute for ubiquitous hummus. One of my tasters liked it spread on seitan sausage sandwiches. Tofu is an easy sell. But how about fermented soy cake? Or chewy wheat gluten? " It's not hard to convince people, " says Hood. " It's kind of nice not to have that half-pound burger. " The restaurants Here are a few restaurants that serve the vegetarian or vegan recipes that accompany today's cover story Cafe Myth. 490 Pacific Ave., S.F.; (415) 677-4289. Lunch Mon.-Fri. Firefly. 4288 24th St., S.F.; (415) 821-7652. Dinner daily. Millennium. 580 Geary St., S.F.; (415) 345-3900. Dinner nightly. Weird Fish. 2193 Mission St., S.F.; (415) 863-4744. Lunch, dinner daily. Alex Arguellos' Pickled Red Onion Makes 11/2 cups 1 red onion, sliced into thin crescents1 tablespoon sugar2 tablespoons cider vinegar1/4 teaspoon saltInstructions: Combine all ingredients in a bowl. Let stand at least 1 hour before serving to meld flavors. Per 1/4 cup: 15 calories, 0 protein, 4 carbohydrate, 0 fat (0 saturated), 0 cholesterol, 89 mg sodium, 0 fiber. Mint Mojo Makes about 3/4 cup 1/2 bunch of mint leaves1 clove garlic1/2 serrano chileJuice of 2 limes1/2 cup light olive oilSalt to tasteInstructions: Place all ingredients in a blender and blend until fairly smooth, but still has texture. Per 2 tablespoon serving: 165 calories, 0 protein, 2 g carbohydrate, 18 g fat (2 g saturated), 0 cholesterol, 2 mg sodium, 0 fiber. Tempeh Picadillo Makes 2 cups One of the keys to this filling is to saute the tempeh with the onions and spices to infuse the it with the seasonings and bring out the slight nutty characters from the tempeh and chile. This also makes a great filling for stuffed eggplant, gypsy peppers or other vegetables and even a Latin-inspired " Sloppy Joe. " 1/2 yellow onion, small dice1 clove garlic, minced1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil1/4 teaspoon ground cumin1/2 teaspoon smoked pimenton (see Note)1/2 teaspoon ancho chile powder or other mild to medium chile powder1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon1/2 pound tempeh, crumbledJuice of 1 orange11/2 teaspoons sugar11/2 teaspoons tomato paste mixed into 1/4 cup vegetable stock + more stock as needed3 tablespoons raisins3 tablespoons chopped pitted green olivesSalt and pepper to tasteInstructions: In a large skillet, saute the onion and garlic with the oil over medium heat until soft and lightly caramelized. Add the cumin, pimenton, chile powder and cinnamon. Saute stirring for 30 seconds. Add the tempeh, saute stirring often for 5 minutes, until browned. Deglaze with the orange juice, scraping up the bottom. Add the sugar, tomato paste and stock, raisins and olives. Bring to a low simmer. If the liquid is absorbed too quickly and the mixture seems dry, add a little more stock. Cook until the mixture is thick with just a little moisture. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cool to room temperature. Note: Pimenton, smoky Spanish paprika, is available in the spice section of most well-stocked supermarkets. Per 1/3 cup): 130 calories, 8 g protein, 14 g carbohydrate, 6 g fat (1 g saturated), 0 cholesterol, 157 mg sodium, 3 g fiber. Tempeh Picadillo Empanadas Serves 6 This recipe is from Eric Tucker of Millennium, adapted from " The Artful Vegan, " ($35; Ten Speed Press) by Eric Tucker, Bruce Enloe, Renee Comet and Amy Pearce. The picadillo can be made well ahead. The dough needs to chill for an hour, so that time can be used to make the mint mojo and the pickled onions. The empanadas11/2 cups all-purpose flour2/3 cup fine cornmeal1/2 teaspoon salt1/2 cup unrefined corn oil or neutral vegetable oil-- Tempeh Picadillo (see recipe)To serve-- Mint Mojo (see recipe)-- Pickled Red Onion (see recipe)Instructions: Combine the flour, cornmeal and salt. Work the oil into the flour with your hands or fork until evenly distributed. Slowly drizzle in water, up to 1/2 cup, until the mixture holds together as a soft dough. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate dough for 1 hour. Preheat oven to 400°. Line a baking sheet with parchment. Flour a work surface. Divide dough into six pieces. Roll each piece of dough about 7 inches square, then cut into a 6-inch circle. Fill each empanada with 3-4 tablespoons of picadillo, leaving a 1/2-inch rim. Brush the perimeter with water, fold over and crimp the edges. Arrange empanadas on lined baking sheet. Bake about 15 minutes or until crust is lightly browned and dry. Serve each empanada with 2 tablespoons of the Mint Mojo and Pickled Red Onion. Per serving: 460 calories, 12 g protein, 49 g carbohydrate, 25 g fat (3 g saturated), 0 cholesterol, 336 mg sodium, 5 g fiber. Firefly Seitan Italian Sausage Serves 8 This is great to have on hand for breakfast, with sauteed peppers, or in lasagna. It's also good in a sandwich with Mock Aioli (see recipe, above) The wheat gluten and other specialty ingredients are available in natural foods stores and, sometimes, in well-stocked supermarkets. 1 tablespoon chopped garlic2 tablespoons finely chopped onion3 tablespoons olive oil2 teaspoons coarsely chopped toasted fennel seed1/2 teaspoon (more or less to taste) crushed red chiles1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil 2 cups Vital wheat gluten " flour " 1 tablespoon nutritional (brewer's) yeast1 tablespoon flour 3 cups vegetable stock1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce1 teaspoon molasses1 tablespoon mirinInstructions: Preheat oven to 375°. Saute garlic and onions in the oil over medium heat until light brown. Add fennel seeds, chiles, thyme, oregano and basil and cook another 30 seconds. Cool and reserve. In a large bowl, combine gluten, yeast and flour; set aside. In a medium bowl, combine 2 cups stock, soy, molasses and mirin. Add liquids and the reserved vegetables to the dry ingredients and knead until liquid is absorbed. Form into tubes or patties and place on a lightly oiled baking dish. Add remaining vegetable stock and cover dish with foil. Bake for about 1/2 hour, then remove foil and bake an additional 10-15 minutes. Per serving: 120 calories, 8 g protein, 9 g carbohydrate, 5 g fat (1 g saturated), 0 cholesterol, 273 mg sodium, 1 g fiber. Maverick's Pan-Fried Tempeh Serves 6-8 At Maverick in San Francisco, this upscale treatment of a meat alternative has been well received. Chef-owner Scott Youkilis serves it with a snap pea salad to cut through the rich sauce. The vegetables for the sauce can be prepared up to three days ahead. The tempeh2 eight-ounce packages Wildwood tempeh (plain), or your favorite tempeh 4 cloves garlic1 inch piece ginger, peeled and sliced thin1/2 cup soy sauce1/4 cup rice wine vinegarPinch of chile flakesThe sauce3/4 cup rice bran oil or vegetable oil 1 pound cremini mushrooms, cleaned1/2 yellow onion, sliced4 stalks celery, chopped4 shallots, peeled and halved1 head garlic, halved2 bay leaves2 cups all-purpose flour 3 eggs, beaten 2 cups panko Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste1 pound mixed mushrooms, possibly including shiitake, chanterelle, beech and hen-of-the-woods, cleaned and sliced or torn into strips 1/2 cup MadeiraInstructions: Cut each block of tempeh into four pieces lengthwise, then cut each piece into 6 triangles. Place in a nonreactive bowl. Mix the garlic, ginger, soy, vinegar, 1/2 cup water and chile flakes and pour over tempeh. Cover and let stand 1 hour, preferably overnight. Heat a stockpot over high, then add 2 tablespoons of the oil. Immediately add the cremini mushrooms and saute until they start to brown. Add the onion, celery, shallots, garlic, bay leaves and 4 cups water. Simmer for 45 minutes. Strain, then set aside. This can be made up to 3 days in advance. Remove the tempeh from the marinade, and strain off excess liquid. Heat 1/2 cup oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Put the flour on a plate, the eggs in a bowl and the panko on another plate. Dredge the tempeh in the flour, then in the eggs, then the panko. Fry the tempeh for 3-4 minutes per side, or until the panko is golden brown. Remove to a paper towel to drain, and season immediately with salt and pepper. In a saute pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and add mixed mushrooms. Saute until they start to turn golden, then add the Madeira. Scrape up bits and cook until almost dry, then add the reserved stock and boil down until most of the liquid is gone. To serve, place the tempeh on a plate and pour mushrooms and sauce over and around. Per serving: 380 calories, 16 g protein, 32 g carbohydrate, 20 g fat (4 g saturated), 66 mg cholesterol, 48 mg sodium, 5 g fiber. .. The calories and other nutrients absorbed from marinades vary and are difficult to estimate. Variables include the type of food, marinating time and amount of surface area. Therefore, the marinade is not included in this analysis. Buffalo Girls Serves 6-8 as an appetizer This recipe comes from Jess North, the chef at Weird Fish. North is allergic to processed soy, so she likes using seitan for this take on Buffalo wings, but says that firm tofu is a fine substitute. Frank's Hot Sauce is available at Safeway and other major supermarkets. The blue cheese dressing1 cup mayonnaise1 cup sour cream3/4 cup blue cheese, crumbled1 teaspoon black pepper2 teaspoons garlic powder1 teaspoon lemon juiceThe Buffalo sauce1 cup Frank's Red Hot Sauce, or your favorite hot sauce 2 tablespoons brown sugar1/4 cup butter, softenedThe fried seitan1 cup flour1 cup rice flour1 teaspoon salt1/2 teaspoon paprikaPinch of white pepper1 egg6 ounces mineral water6 ounces beer Oil, for frying2 (8-ounce) packages seitanCarrots and celery, for servingFor the dressing: Mix together the mayonnaise, sour cream, cheese, pepper, garlic powder and lemon juice; set aside or refrigerate until ready to use. For the sauce: In a saucepan over medium heat, heat the hot sauce and the sugar. Add the butter slowly, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and set aside. For the fried seitan: In a bowl, mix flours, salt, paprika and white pepper. In another bowl, whisk egg, mineral water and beer. Slowly add wet ingredients to the dry ingredients, thinning with water if needed until the mixture has the consistency of thin pancake batter. In a medium pot, heat 3 inches of oil over medium high heat, until the oil comes to 375°. If you don't have a thermometer, test the oil by dropping in a cube of bread cube. If it sinks slightly, then rises and sizzles at the top, it is ready. If it cooks too quickly, turn down the heat slightly. Cut the seitan into two-bite pieces. Dip the seitan into the beer batter and place one piece at a time into the hot oil. Fry 3-5 minutes, or until the batter is crisp and golden brown. Toss the fried seitan with the Buffalo sauce and serve with carrots, celery and blue cheese dressing. Per serving (with 2 tablespoons dressing): 310 calories, 15 g protein, 14 g carbohydrate, 22 g fat (6 g saturated), 31 mg cholesterol, 523 mg sodium, 1 g fiber. Mock Aioli Makes 3 cups This mock aioli comes from chef Ryan Scott of Myth Cafe, where he serves this on a grilled Vietnamese tofu sandwich with spicy pickled vegetables. It's great as a mayonnaise substitute, if you are looking for a vegan option, and swapping out the herbs can change the flavors. This is also a nice alternative to hummus, or used as a dip or sandwich spread. 1 pound firm tofu packed in water (see Note)1 tablespoon ground cumin1 tablespoon ground corianderJuice of 1 lime1 bunch scallions, chopped1/2 bunch cilantro, leaves only1/2 cup basil leaves, loosely packed1/4 cup mint leaves, loosely packed2 teaspoons salt2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilInstructions: Dice the tofu and put it in a food processor with the remaining ingredients. Blend until smooth, scraping down sides as needed. Chill for at least 1 hour to let the flavors blend. Note: Do not substitute extra firm or vacuum-sealed tofu. Per tablespoon: 20 calories, 2 g protein, 1 g carbohydrate, 1 g fat (0 saturated), 0 cholesterol, 91 mg sodium, 0 fiber. Amanda Berne is a former Chronicle Food staff writer. E-mail her at food. Find previous Accidental Vegetarian columns at sfgate.com/food. === from a reader of the weblink got broken up w/ the send and the article can't be found. what was the title? brian --- sunny_outdoors <sunny_outdoors wrote: > I'm surprised no one posted this article > > http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi? > f=/c/a/2007/09/19/FDASS2Q30.DTL & hw=vegetarian & sn=001 & sc=1000 > > they should of interviewed 100% veg restaurants > > hey, did anyone see World Veg Day posters at any of > the veg > restaurants or any other places? > Pls give me a status so I can tell the person in > charge what's going > on. > > info on the new Whole Foods > http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi? > f=/c/a/2007/09/18/DDP4S6EBI.DTL & hw=whole+foods & sn=002 & sc=870 > > customers are trying to pursuade the store to have a > bulk section. > The Chinese Lady working in the Customer SErvice > yesterday says they > don't have a bulk area due to lack of space. I want > to tell her to > take out some meat and the vitamin section. The > vitamin area is not > using space very efficiently. > > UPDATE NEWS > I just spoke with the manager of Aanii this morning, > who's super > smart, based on her experience on another Whole > Foods Store, there > were a lot of problems in the bulk section. People > were sticking > their hands in the bulk foods and Whole Foods have > to dump the who > thing away. Space WAS NOT the issue. This Whole > Foods is a trial > store with NO bulk food. A lot of the bulk foods > now come > prepackaged. If there's anything specific you > always want, they might > order it for today. Today 3 people had asked for > the bulk section. > > The manager knows we will go to Rainbow or another > store for our bulk > products. > I don't think there will be a change for awhile. If > you want to make > your comments. THis BEST way is to put it in > writing. Somewhere in > Whole food's web site is a COMMENTS section. I was > not able to find > that section. > > I've decided not to do anything since Whole Foods > will do this > experience for a whole. Bulk foods are affordable > food for the > less " rich " folks. > > http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/ > > writer is blasting hamburger ads > > http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/g/a/2007/09/19/notes091907.DTL > > > ______________________________\ ____ Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join 's user panel and lay it on us. http://surveylink./gmrs/_panel_invite.asp?a=7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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