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Edible Media: In seitan's lair

Posted by Tom Philpott at 1:29 PM on 28 Jan 2007

 

Edible Media takes an occasional look at interesting or deplorable food

journalism on the web.

 

It's been a rough couple of months for meat eaters. In late November, the FAO

issued a startling report claiming that livestock production emits fully 18

percent of global greenhouse gases -- more than all the automobiles in the

world.

 

Then out comes a big book: The Bloodless Revolution by British scholar and proud

" freegan " Tristram Stuart. The book seeks to trace the " cultural history of

vegetarianism from 1600 to modern times. "

 

The existence and long history of vegetarianism should make us meat-eaters

squirm a bit. Who are we to make other sentient creatures suffer and die painful

deaths, so we can gain our sustenance in a world with many non-animal choices on

offer?

 

 

It's not inconceivable that our meat habit could one day seem monstrous. As

Laura Miller put it in her review of Stuart's book on Salon:

 

We, like the people of the early 1800s, could be living through a period of slow

but profound ideological change. ... In the future, right-thinking people might

look back at us meat eaters with the same disapproval we heap on those who

considered slavery acceptable 200 years ago.

Few would deny that out current mode of meat production is monstrous. The dirty

business of slaughter takes place off-stage, so to speak. Most Americans

blithely fill up on meat without knowing or caring about what goes on in fetid

feedlots or brutal (for workers and animals alike) slaughterhouses.

 

In his elegant review of the Stuart book for The New Yorker, Steven Shapin

brings up a bracing fact about U.S. meat consumption. Every year, the average

American consumes 275 pounds of meat -- up from 238 in 1981.

 

That means the average American ingests three-quarters of a pound per day. When

you account for vegetarians and people who eat meat only occasionally, that

figure is even more breathtaking.

 

Worse still, other nations are following the the U.S. lead. Shapin informs us

that in China, per capita meat consumption has surged from from 33.1 to 115.5

pounds since 1981. That's amazing.

 

Michael Pollan has made the point that explosive growth in meat consumption

would not have been possible without the industrialization of farming.

Essentially, when grain yields surged in the second half of the 20th century,

prices tumbled and it began to seem economical to start feeding farm animals

huge amounts of grain instead of grass. That in turn led to feedlots and vast

centralized slaughterhouses, and the price of meat fell, turning it into a daily

expectation rather than a luxury.

 

But if voracious meat consumption is related to the mechanization of agriculture

and its marginalization from most people's lives, so might be vegetarianism.

Shapin, in his New Yorker essay, makes a provocative point:

 

Those who kill animals in the course of their working day may quickly become

habituated to it, and to dismiss this effect as mere desensitization effectively

discounts great knowledge of animal death in favor of slight knowledge.

Similarly, those who like to romanticize country people are frequently

discomfited by their uncuddly ways with livestock. A major source of the

sympathy with animal suffering that developed so strongly from the Enlightenment

may well be the pattern of urbanization that removed so many of us from daily

experience of how our food is produced. Why is it " natural " not to know very

much about " nature " ? [Emphasis in original]

The answer, then, might not be to ban meat outright (which, as relentlessly

rising consumption patterns are telling us, is highly unlikely). Rather, it

might be to revalue and spread the " experience of how our food is produced. "

 

After all, the pre-Enlightment peasants who presumably treated their animals so

unsentimentally didn't eat much meat. They respected it as a delicious, dense

store of nutrients and learned to make it stretch, giving the world the immortal

(I hope) art of charcuterie.

 

Moreover, a renewed, broad-based knowledge of where food comes from will

reestablish something that vegetarians and vegans sometimes forget: that organic

agriculture in any meaningful sense relies on diversified farming -- crops and

livestock tended in close proximity.

 

But as a committed omnivore who is nevertheless appalled by feedlot agriculture

and stunned by Americans' meat-eating gluttony, I've got nothing but respect for

vegetarians and vegans.

 

A deal with seitan

 

 

Speaking of vegans, I loved the article in last Wednesday's New York Times food

section about Brooklyn vegan chef Isa Chandra Moskowitz.

 

While I'm not about to abandon butter, eggs, and cream in dessert-making, I have

no doubt that her confections are excellent. Why? Because of this bit:

 

Moskowitz ... does not particularly like to talk about tofu. Ditto seitan,

tempeh and nutritional yeast. " I think vegan cooks need to learn to cook

vegetables first, " she said last week during a cupcake-baking marathon. " Then

maybe they can be allowed to move on to meat substitutes. "

Amen. I don't mean to knock vegans; if anything, their prohibitions force them

into paying more attention to cooking than their McDonald's-gorging peers. Yet

anyone who's been served monstrosities like vegan Sloppy Joes can give Moskowitz

a witness.

 

 

" Every gun that is made, every warship launched, every rocket fired, signifies

in the final sense a theft from those who hunger and are not fed, those who are

cold and are not clothed. "

-- Dwight Eisenhower

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The sad part is that other places are " following our lead " as far as

food goes and that is a disturbing trend ...

 

Great read fraggle ... thanks for sending.

 

*mona

 

, fraggle <EBbrewpunx wrote:

>

> Edible Media: In seitan's lair

> Posted by Tom Philpott at 1:29 PM on 28 Jan 2007

>

> Edible Media takes an occasional look at interesting or deplorable

food journalism on the web.

>

> It's been a rough couple of months for meat eaters. In late

November, the FAO issued a startling report claiming that livestock

production emits fully 18 percent of global greenhouse gases -- more

than all the automobiles in the world.

>

> Then out comes a big book: The Bloodless Revolution by British

scholar and proud " freegan " Tristram Stuart. The book seeks to trace

the " cultural history of vegetarianism from 1600 to modern times. "

>

> The existence and long history of vegetarianism should make us

meat-eaters squirm a bit. Who are we to make other sentient

creatures suffer and die painful deaths, so we can gain our

sustenance in a world with many non-animal choices on offer?

>

>

> It's not inconceivable that our meat habit could one day seem

monstrous. As Laura Miller put it in her review of Stuart's book on

Salon:

>

> We, like the people of the early 1800s, could be living through a

period of slow but profound ideological change. ... In the future,

right-thinking people might look back at us meat eaters with the

same disapproval we heap on those who considered slavery acceptable

200 years ago.

> Few would deny that out current mode of meat production is

monstrous. The dirty business of slaughter takes place off-stage, so

to speak. Most Americans blithely fill up on meat without knowing or

caring about what goes on in fetid feedlots or brutal (for workers

and animals alike) slaughterhouses.

>

> In his elegant review of the Stuart book for The New Yorker,

Steven Shapin brings up a bracing fact about U.S. meat consumption.

Every year, the average American consumes 275 pounds of meat -- up

from 238 in 1981.

>

> That means the average American ingests three-quarters of a pound

per day. When you account for vegetarians and people who eat meat

only occasionally, that figure is even more breathtaking.

>

> Worse still, other nations are following the the U.S. lead. Shapin

informs us that in China, per capita meat consumption has surged

from from 33.1 to 115.5 pounds since 1981. That's amazing.

>

> Michael Pollan has made the point that explosive growth in meat

consumption would not have been possible without the

industrialization of farming. Essentially, when grain yields surged

in the second half of the 20th century, prices tumbled and it began

to seem economical to start feeding farm animals huge amounts of

grain instead of grass. That in turn led to feedlots and vast

centralized slaughterhouses, and the price of meat fell, turning it

into a daily expectation rather than a luxury.

>

> But if voracious meat consumption is related to the mechanization

of agriculture and its marginalization from most people's lives, so

might be vegetarianism. Shapin, in his New Yorker essay, makes a

provocative point:

>

> Those who kill animals in the course of their working day may

quickly become habituated to it, and to dismiss this effect as mere

desensitization effectively discounts great knowledge of animal

death in favor of slight knowledge. Similarly, those who like to

romanticize country people are frequently discomfited by their

uncuddly ways with livestock. A major source of the sympathy with

animal suffering that developed so strongly from the Enlightenment

may well be the pattern of urbanization that removed so many of us

from daily experience of how our food is produced. Why is

it " natural " not to know very much about " nature " ? [Emphasis in

original]

> The answer, then, might not be to ban meat outright (which, as

relentlessly rising consumption patterns are telling us, is highly

unlikely). Rather, it might be to revalue and spread the " experience

of how our food is produced. "

>

> After all, the pre-Enlightment peasants who presumably treated

their animals so unsentimentally didn't eat much meat. They

respected it as a delicious, dense store of nutrients and learned to

make it stretch, giving the world the immortal (I hope) art of

charcuterie.

>

> Moreover, a renewed, broad-based knowledge of where food comes

from will reestablish something that vegetarians and vegans

sometimes forget: that organic agriculture in any meaningful sense

relies on diversified farming -- crops and livestock tended in close

proximity.

>

> But as a committed omnivore who is nevertheless appalled by

feedlot agriculture and stunned by Americans' meat-eating gluttony,

I've got nothing but respect for vegetarians and vegans.

>

> A deal with seitan

>

>

> Speaking of vegans, I loved the article in last Wednesday's New

York Times food section about Brooklyn vegan chef Isa Chandra

Moskowitz.

>

> While I'm not about to abandon butter, eggs, and cream in dessert-

making, I have no doubt that her confections are excellent. Why?

Because of this bit:

>

> Moskowitz ... does not particularly like to talk about tofu. Ditto

seitan, tempeh and nutritional yeast. " I think vegan cooks need to

learn to cook vegetables first, " she said last week during a cupcake-

baking marathon. " Then maybe they can be allowed to move on to meat

substitutes. "

> Amen. I don't mean to knock vegans; if anything, their

prohibitions force them into paying more attention to cooking than

their McDonald's-gorging peers. Yet anyone who's been served

monstrosities like vegan Sloppy Joes can give Moskowitz a witness.

>

>

> " Every gun that is made, every warship launched, every rocket

fired, signifies in the final sense a theft from those who hunger

and are not fed, those who are cold and are not clothed. "

> -- Dwight Eisenhower

>

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our parent company is in San Diego

 

if i ask, can he throw tomatoes at their offices for me?

 

 

>*mona <ahnochirah

>Jan 30, 2007 4:13 PM

>

> Re: a carni talks vegan

>

>PS fraggle ... my hubby will be in San Diego the end of the week ...

>I'm jealous!! I can't work out going with him that quick so am

>having to stay behind ... :(

>

>*mona

>

 

 

" Every gun that is made, every warship launched, every rocket fired, signifies

in the final sense a theft from those who hunger and are not fed, those who are

cold and are not clothed. "

-- Dwight Eisenhower

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Share on other sites

Further down in the article it talks about how other countries are

flocking to open up the same fast food places that are creating many

issues of illness and obesity here in the US. It's sad to see other

countries following our lead in this way.

 

*mona

 

-- In , " angelikfiona "

<angelik_kitty_kat wrote:

>

> Im not disagreeign with you, but Im confused.

>

> How si that disturbing and what do you mean, following oru lead?

to

> do what? what type of places?

>

>

> , " *mona " <ahnochirah@> wrote:

> >

> > The sad part is that other places are " following our lead " as

far

> as

> > food goes and that is a disturbing trend ...

> >

> > Great read fraggle ... thanks for sending.

> >

> > *mona

> >

> > , fraggle <EBbrewpunx@> wrote:

> > >

> > > Edible Media: In seitan's lair

> > > Posted by Tom Philpott at 1:29 PM on 28 Jan 2007

> > >

> > > Edible Media takes an occasional look at interesting or

> deplorable

> > food journalism on the web.

> > >

> > > It's been a rough couple of months for meat eaters. In late

> > November, the FAO issued a startling report claiming that

livestock

> > production emits fully 18 percent of global greenhouse gases --

> more

> > than all the automobiles in the world.

> > >

> > > Then out comes a big book: The Bloodless Revolution by British

> > scholar and proud " freegan " Tristram Stuart. The book seeks to

> trace

> > the " cultural history of vegetarianism from 1600 to modern

times. "

> > >

> > > The existence and long history of vegetarianism should make us

> > meat-eaters squirm a bit. Who are we to make other sentient

> > creatures suffer and die painful deaths, so we can gain our

> > sustenance in a world with many non-animal choices on offer?

> > >

> > >

> > > It's not inconceivable that our meat habit could one day seem

> > monstrous. As Laura Miller put it in her review of Stuart's book

on

> > Salon:

> > >

> > > We, like the people of the early 1800s, could be living

through a

> > period of slow but profound ideological change. ... In the

future,

> > right-thinking people might look back at us meat eaters with the

> > same disapproval we heap on those who considered slavery

acceptable

> > 200 years ago.

> > > Few would deny that out current mode of meat production is

> > monstrous. The dirty business of slaughter takes place off-

stage,

> so

> > to speak. Most Americans blithely fill up on meat without

knowing

> or

> > caring about what goes on in fetid feedlots or brutal (for

workers

> > and animals alike) slaughterhouses.

> > >

> > > In his elegant review of the Stuart book for The New Yorker,

> > Steven Shapin brings up a bracing fact about U.S. meat

consumption.

> > Every year, the average American consumes 275 pounds of meat --

up

> > from 238 in 1981.

> > >

> > > That means the average American ingests three-quarters of a

pound

> > per day. When you account for vegetarians and people who eat

meat

> > only occasionally, that figure is even more breathtaking.

> > >

> > > Worse still, other nations are following the the U.S. lead.

> Shapin

> > informs us that in China, per capita meat consumption has surged

> > from from 33.1 to 115.5 pounds since 1981. That's amazing.

> > >

> > > Michael Pollan has made the point that explosive growth in

meat

> > consumption would not have been possible without the

> > industrialization of farming. Essentially, when grain yields

surged

> > in the second half of the 20th century, prices tumbled and it

began

> > to seem economical to start feeding farm animals huge amounts of

> > grain instead of grass. That in turn led to feedlots and vast

> > centralized slaughterhouses, and the price of meat fell, turning

it

> > into a daily expectation rather than a luxury.

> > >

> > > But if voracious meat consumption is related to the

mechanization

> > of agriculture and its marginalization from most people's lives,

so

> > might be vegetarianism. Shapin, in his New Yorker essay, makes a

> > provocative point:

> > >

> > > Those who kill animals in the course of their working day may

> > quickly become habituated to it, and to dismiss this effect as

mere

> > desensitization effectively discounts great knowledge of animal

> > death in favor of slight knowledge. Similarly, those who like to

> > romanticize country people are frequently discomfited by their

> > uncuddly ways with livestock. A major source of the sympathy

with

> > animal suffering that developed so strongly from the

Enlightenment

> > may well be the pattern of urbanization that removed so many of

us

> > from daily experience of how our food is produced. Why is

> > it " natural " not to know very much about " nature " ? [Emphasis in

> > original]

> > > The answer, then, might not be to ban meat outright (which, as

> > relentlessly rising consumption patterns are telling us, is

highly

> > unlikely). Rather, it might be to revalue and spread

> the " experience

> > of how our food is produced. "

> > >

> > > After all, the pre-Enlightment peasants who presumably treated

> > their animals so unsentimentally didn't eat much meat. They

> > respected it as a delicious, dense store of nutrients and

learned

> to

> > make it stretch, giving the world the immortal (I hope) art of

> > charcuterie.

> > >

> > > Moreover, a renewed, broad-based knowledge of where food comes

> > from will reestablish something that vegetarians and vegans

> > sometimes forget: that organic agriculture in any meaningful

sense

> > relies on diversified farming -- crops and livestock tended in

> close

> > proximity.

> > >

> > > But as a committed omnivore who is nevertheless appalled by

> > feedlot agriculture and stunned by Americans' meat-eating

gluttony,

> > I've got nothing but respect for vegetarians and vegans.

> > >

> > > A deal with seitan

> > >

> > >

> > > Speaking of vegans, I loved the article in last Wednesday's

New

> > York Times food section about Brooklyn vegan chef Isa Chandra

> > Moskowitz.

> > >

> > > While I'm not about to abandon butter, eggs, and cream in

dessert-

> > making, I have no doubt that her confections are excellent. Why?

> > Because of this bit:

> > >

> > > Moskowitz ... does not particularly like to talk about tofu.

> Ditto

> > seitan, tempeh and nutritional yeast. " I think vegan cooks need

to

> > learn to cook vegetables first, " she said last week during a

> cupcake-

> > baking marathon. " Then maybe they can be allowed to move on to

meat

> > substitutes. "

> > > Amen. I don't mean to knock vegans; if anything, their

> > prohibitions force them into paying more attention to cooking

than

> > their McDonald's-gorging peers. Yet anyone who's been served

> > monstrosities like vegan Sloppy Joes can give Moskowitz a

witness.

> > >

> > >

> > > " Every gun that is made, every warship launched, every rocket

> > fired, signifies in the final sense a theft from those who

hunger

> > and are not fed, those who are cold and are not clothed. "

> > > -- Dwight Eisenhower

> > >

> >

>

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