Grilling the Japanese way

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The Accidental Vegetarian: Grilling the Japanese way

Amanda Berne, Special to The Chronicle

 

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

 

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The Accidental Vegetarian

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The first time I ate Japanese food was in the Japan pavilion at Epcot Center in

Disney World, when I was 9. It was here among the koi-filled ponds and the

Japantown-esque architecture that I slurped my first bowl of fat, slippery udon.

I still remember the steamy broth loaded with seaweed and vegetables, and the

chewiness of the thick white udon. Watching my father try to use chopsticks had

me roaring with laughter.

 

While it still makes me laugh to watch my father use chopsticks, my taste in

Japanese food has extended beyond the easy-to-love big bowl of udon.

 

The subtley nuanced vegetarian, often vegan, preparations in Japanese cooking

make me feel like I'm eating a healthful, guilt-free dish. Many of the dishes

use very few ingredients to convey a lot of flavor, depending on various

seaweeds, misos and mushrooms to add depth.

 

A few vegetarian Japanese restaurants have opened in the Bay Area during the

past few years, and it was at one of them that I was reminded of how simple, yet

how full-flavored good Japanese dishes can be.

 

There's a soup at Cha-Ya, in the Mission District, that seems to have

restorative powers. That's what I keep telling myself. It's the dobin mushi, a

clear soup with mushrooms, tofu and other vegetables. The mushroom flavor comes

through clear and clean, and the whole thing is served in a little tea pot. The

broth is poured into small tea cups for sipping, while the vegetables can be

eaten afterward.

 

At the now-closed Medicine Eatstation, I enjoyed a simple artisanally crafted

block of tofu, so rich it was cheeselike, with shredded ginger and soy sauce for

dousing. It's hard to imagine just eating a block of tofu, but then again, it

was hard to stop it, too.

 

Mirroring this simplicity, while following another favorite Japanese food trend

of skewered and grilled dishes, I developed a recipe for the Tofu Kebabs depends

on using the best-quality ingredients available. Alternate firm, fat cubes of

tofu with lengths of green onion and meaty shiitake mushroom caps, and baste

them in a salty-sweet miso glaze. Cook the skewers on a grill or in a grill pan,

or broil them, watching closely to make sure the sugar in the glaze doesn't

burn.

 

Use any kind of miso. Red miso has a strong flavor, while white (shiro) is

milder and sweeter. The glaze is also good brushed onto corn and then grilled.

 

The skewers are especially nice with sunomono (for the Wakame & Cucumber Salad

recipe, click on this article link), a cooling cucumber salad that mirrors the

salty-sweet taste but adds some crunch. Or, serve them on top of the Soba Salad

with Creamy Sesame Dressing to make a more substantial salad.

 

Don't let using seaweed intimidate you. It simply needs to be rehydrated in

water before it's ready to use. And, it's low in calories and high in fiber.

Wakame is high in protein, calcium and iron, making it a great addition for

salads and soups. If the wakame is a bit unruly (unlike the tamer hijiki), cut

it into manageable pieces with kitchen shears, and toss it with a little vinegar

or lemon to cut any sliminess from oversoaking.

 

Tofu Kebabs

Serves 4

 

These skewers have a lovely miso glaze that needs no sauce for dunking. These

make a great, easy vegetarian option for the usual meat-heavy barbecues. Soak

wooden skewers in water for at least 30 minutes before using.

 

1/4 cup org. brown sugar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons warm water

2 tablespoons white miso or any other miso

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 1/2 teaspoons grated ginger

1 tablespoon minced shallot

6 scallions, cut into 2-inch lengths

2 lemons, cut into 1/4-inch thick slices

12 ounces extra-firm tofu, drained and cut into large pieces (about 1 1/2- to

2-inch cubes)

12 small shiitake mushroom caps (or 3 large ones cut into quarters)

White and black sesame seeds, for sprinkling

Instructions: Preheat the grill to medium. Alternatively, the skewers can be

cooked in a grill pan over medium-high heat.

 

Combine sugar, soy sauce, water, miso, sesame oil, ginger and shallot in a small

bowl.

 

Thread scallion, lemons, tofu and mushroom on skewers, alternating. Each skewer

should have two pieces of tofu. Brush glaze on skewers, covering all sides, and

transfer skewers to the grill or grill pan. Grill, turning occasionally, until

all sides are golden brown and the scallions and mushrooms have softened

slightly, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve immediately.

 

Per serving: 180 calories, 10 g protein, 25 g carbohydrate, 5 g fat (1 g

saturated), 0 cholesterol, 875 mg sodium, 2 g fiber.

 

Soba Salad with Creamy Sesame Dressing

Serves 4

 

Look for seaweed, pickled ginger and mustard leaf and other ingredients in the

Asian foods section of well-stocked supermarkets, and Asian grocers such as 99

Ranch.

 

3 tablespoons sesame paste (tahini is fine)

1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon org. sugar

1 tablespoon mirin

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 tablespoons vegan/soy mayonnaise

Warm water, for thinning

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

6 cups crisp lettuce, such as romaine, red leaf, or Lolla Rosa

1 1/2 cups cooked soba noodles, chilled

4 tablespoons pickled ginger, drained and chopped

1/2 cup dried wakame seaweed, soaked in water 10 minutes, drained well

1/2 cup dried hijiki seaweed, soaked in water 10 to 15 minutes, drained well

2 carrots, peeled, cut into matchsticks

6 tablespoons pickled mustard leaf

Shichimi-togarashi (optional)

Instructions: Mix the sesame paste, soy sauce, sugar, mirin, vinegar and

mayonnaise in a bowl until well blended. Thin with enough water to make it easy

to pour. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

 

Divide lettuce among four bowls. Top each with 1/4 of the noodles, ginger,

wakame, hijiki, carrots and mustard leaf. Toss each with dressing, sprinkle with

shichimi, if desired, and serve immediately. This can easily be made into a

large salad, assembled ahead of time, and brought to a barbecue. Toss with

dressing before serving.

 

Per serving: 240 calories, 7 g protein, 30 g carbohydrate, 12 g fat (2 g

saturated), 4 mg cholesterol, 512 mg sodium, 4 g fiber.

 

Amanda Berne is a former Chronicle Food staff writer. E-mail her at

food.

 

 

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