Merge: A vegan menu, but much more

[Guest guest]

BY JANICE OKUN

News Restaurant Reviewer

Story tools:

LargerSmallerSave

Print

Email

Share this story:

Buzz up!

We have lots of wonderful restaurants in Western New York, but we don't have

all that many vegetarian choices. Sure, Asian restaurants offer a place to run,

and you can pretty much order pasta everywhere, but still.

 

The opening of Merge is especially welcome, because it makes many more options

available. The place is not completely vegetarian; both organic chicken and fish

appear on the menu, though they are cooked in separate equipment. But there's no

doubt where the emphasis lies here: not only vegetarian food but also vegan, raw

and gluten-free. In other words, the kind of food that is generally regarded as

healthy.

 

This is a long, narrow restaurant, though there's a separate dining room on the

side that makes it bigger than you expect it to be. There's nice woodwork,

bright colors, interesting original art and a raised stage and sound system for

films, entertainment and open-mic nights. Art classes are even available. The

menu says that the management hopes " to bring people together in a place where

they can share meals, drinks, art and ideas, " and that is clearly conveyed.

 

Food is carefully prepared. Merge hasn't been open very long, and they've been

busy, so ordering is obviously still a problem here. They were out of several

items, including fried battered pickles ($4; boy that really hurt). But,

hopefully, those problems should resolve themselves soon.

 

Hearty chicken noodle soup ($5) was just that, and fried ravioli ($6) was a

50/50 proposition. The flat ravioli squares were unappealing dark brown because

they had been cooked a tad too long, but the accompanying tomato sauce dip was

fresh and tasty. Other appetizer options include Buffalo-style deep-fried

 

eggplant and Brussels Mussels (the mollusks are stewed with white wine and

served authentically with mayonnaise for $8).

 

Wraps are available, too, for $7 or so. The Merge menu is determined to tell us

how to pronounce things, so the menu instructs us to call the baked potato,

cabbage and hummus Chopin Wraps " shoh-pan. " What, we didn't know that?

 

The menu also tells us that vichyssoise is " vish-ee-swaz " and ratatouille is

" rat-uh-tooee. " Maybe I've missed a joke, which is fair enough. But while they

were at it, why didn't they tell us how to pronounce bruschetta — which almost

nobody on this side of the pond does right. (The ch is pronounced like " k. " )

 

But I digress.

 

Our favorite entree was Ambrosia lasagna ($10), layered with brown rice noodles,

spinach and eggplant with pine nut cheese and that good tomato sauce, served

with the greenest, best cooked broccoli I've seen in a while.

 

I wasn't quite so enthusiastic about the peppercorn poached salmon ($12),

slightly fishy tasting and served with a sweet, almost fruity sauce. Odd combo.

I liked the dill fennel risotto, though.

 

Other entrees include raw pizza in a walnut flax crust with nut cheese ($9);

Chicken Chasseur ( " sha-sur " ), pan-fried breast served with butternut squash

puree and stuffed mushrooms ($11); and a sweet potato calzone ($9).

 

Desserts change from day to day — a good sign, since we know they are house-made

and fresh. Whatever you do, be sure to order the peanut butter krispie, a take

on everyone's beloved Rice Krispie Squares and served in a really huge dome. The

apple cinnamon cheesecake ( " apul sin-a-men cheez cake " ; no, no, this time we're

kidding) was pretty darn good, too.•

 

MERGE

 

& #9733; & #9733; & #9733;½

 

WHERE: 439 Delaware Ave. (381-8502). This new, attractive restaurant offers

fresh food with many vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and raw food options. And

there are a few slightly quirky ideas, too.

 

Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard and Visa.

 

FAVORITE DISH: Ambrosia lasagna

 

NEEDS WORK: Fried ravioli

 

PRICE RANGE:Dinner entrees from $9; salads from $6; paninis, $7.

 

SERVICE: Very good.

 

HOURS: Lunch and dinner until 10, Monday through Saturday.

 

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

 

PARKING: On the street.

 

RATINGS:Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News'

visit.