La Vida Veggie

[Guest guest]

By Heather Irwin

 

 

Published: Monday, April 13, 2009 at 2:18 p.m.

Last Modified: Monday, April 13, 2009 at 2:18 p.m.

It takes dedication to be a vegetarian through the lean winter months of kale

and turnips. But as spring gardens begin to burst forth with young greens,

asparagus, peas and strawberries (and swimsuit season approaches), salad days

don't sound quite so dreary. In fact, maybe downright preferable.

 

 

Now, I've never been one to leap at a the chance to gnaw on tempeh or steamed

broccoli, but the truth of the matter is that meatless dining has gone

mainstream as more and more of us consider the implications of what goes on our

plates and into our tummies. It's not just conscientious, but chic to curb our

carnivorous cravings in favor of well-crafted dishes made with exotic fruit,

heirloom beans, ancient grains and organic crucifers. Food that's actually as

delicious as it is healthful. Imagine.

 

Veggie's Ground Zero

The macrobiotic and brown rice set tend be to drawn to the nuclear-free zone of

Sebastopol. Within blocks of each other are no less than five

vegetarian/vegan-focused establishments, and the remainder learning very quickly

to offer a vegetarian option somewhere on the menu. The newest is Peter

Lowell's, an upscale cafe/pizzeria focused on organic and sustainable local

produce from local farms. Best bets include their crispy chevre pizza with

caramelized onions and hearty seasonal soups (with a glass of biodynamic wine),

7385 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol., (707) 829-1077. East West Cafe, with

locations in Sebastopol and Santa Rosa has been a longtime player, with locals

favoring their brunches and hummus. Slice of Life, where vegetarian and vegan

whole wheat pizzas reign supreme, is Birkenstock and shorts-casual. Don't miss

mock meatball sandwiches and veggie burritos, 6970 Mckinley Ave, Sebastopol,

(707) 829-6627.

 

Haute for Herbivores

A new category of luxe vegetarian dining, rooted in classic French techniques

and miles away from sprouts, is cropping up throughout Wine Country. Cyrus

Restaurant, best known for its over-the-top caviar service and multi-course

extravaganzas, recently created a dedicated vegetarian tasting menu that truly

rivals its regular menu and will keep you foie-gras free. A favorite is the

table-made tofu, where diners get a personalized ramekin of soy milk that turns

into fresh tofu before your eyes. (29 North St., Healdsburg, (707) 433-3311.

Napa's Ubuntu, a combination yoga studio and eatery that many of us mocked

before opening, has emerged as a national dining destination because of, rather

than in spite of, Chef Jeremy Fox's meatless menu. Using plenty of butter, cream

and classic French training, it's one of local produce's finest moments. (1140

Main St., Napa, (707) 251-5656.

 

In Santa Rosa, the newly-opened GG's Earth and Surf does easy-going bistro fare

-- soups, salads and simple entrees -- that don't scream " vegetarian " despite

their often meatless ingredient list. Owner Suzan Fleissner and former spa chef,

Trevor Anderson understand that a lack of animal protein doesn't have to mean a

lack of flavor. 630 Third St., Santa Rosa, (707) 528-1445.

 

Get Raw

And then there are the vegan and raw foods restaurants, which may sound like a

bit of an oxymoron considering that vegan food doesn't contain any animal

products and raw food is, well, raw. Increasing demand for minimally-processed

foods, gluten-free, animal-free, wheat-free..and the list goes on...has sparked

enterprising folks like Jerri Hastey to get creative. Her Santa Rosa restaurant,

Seed, serves a variety of creatively concocted fruit, grain and vegetable dishes

that are both vegan and " live " , meaning uncooked. Dehydrators, blenders and

creative seasoning play a big part in raw foods, especially when making things

like cashew " cheese " , raviolis and " live caramel. " 463 Sebastopol Avenue, Santa

Rosa, (707) 546-7333. East-Bay-born Cafe Gratitude is also keen on the raw tip,

along with self-affirmation. Dishes made with all manner of sprouted things cary

names like " I Am Graceful " , " I Am Fruitful " and so on. Personally, it feels a

little silly to declare " I Am Awakening " when you really aren't, but perhaps the

cashew cream will help. 206 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. (707) 723-4462.

 

Ready to take make raw foods a full-time commitment? Mendocino's Living Light

Culinary Institute draws culinary explorers from around the world to their

chef's program.301-B North Main St., Fort Bragg, (800) 816-2319.

 

DIY

Local chef and veg-lebrity Jill Nussinow, aka The Veggie Queen, proselytizes the

vegetarian lifestyle through her cookbooks and classes here in Sonoma County.

Her seasonally-based recipes take advantage of what's best at the farm markets,

with tasty ideas inspired by her years of plant-centric culinary experiences.

www.theveggiequeen.com.

Where to go...Peter Lowell's: 7385 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol., (707) 829-1077

Slice of Life: 6970 Mckinley Ave, Sebastopol, (707) 829-6627

Cyrus: 29 North St., Healdsburg, (707) 433-3311

Ubuntu: 1140 Main St., Napa, (707) 251-5656

GG's Earth and Surf: 630 Third St., Santa Rosa, (707) 528-1445

Seed: 463 Sebastopol Avenue, Santa Rosa, (707) 546-7333

Cafe Gratitude: 206 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. (707) 723-4462

Mendocino's Living Light Culinary Institute: 301-B North Main St., Fort Bragg,

(800) 816-2319.