Seasonless Green Fashion

September 14, 2006

From The Green Guide Seasonless Green Fashion by Anne Wallace Filed under: Clothing and fabric, Compassionate consumerism, Fair trade clothing, Environmentally friendly product Hail in September? Hot spells and sunburns in October? Icy autumn mornings with short-sleeve afternoons? What's a green shopper to do this fall? For starters, you can toss those seasonal do's and don'ts out of your mind and closet. In this epoch of global warming, fall fashion rules are also undergoing climate change: It's OK to wear knee-high faux fur boots with a light cotton skirt and wool sweater. Wear white after Labor Day. Pair open-toed shoes with corduroy pants and a wool scarf tossed over a sleeveless silky top. This autumn,

prepare for erratic weather by taking a middle ground, putting warmer wraps over something skimpy, Robert Sullivan advised in the March Vogue. And, wondering what President Bush might wear next season, Sullivan posited that it may come "to the point where we are all hoping to have any clothes on at all by the time he's out of office." Other style cognoscenti are finding that, as the climate begins to change more quickly than fashion, the sensible new trend is to let temperature, not season, dictate what to wear. "Fall in Southern California can be hotter than summer," says Lindsay Steenblock, an interior designer. "On those chilly L.A. mornings when I'm wearing a suit and nylons, by noon, when the sun hits the mirror-glass buildings, I'm panting like a race horse!" Steinblock often finds herself wearing sandals with a coat slung over cotton skirts and T-shirts in October, and sees "other people doing the same thing." The timing also couldn't be

more ripe for eco wear. As editor Roberta Myers notes in Elle's trend-setting May green issue, "Young designers offer style with a conscience, including alternative materials such as organically grown cotton and bamboo, and supporting sustainable labor practices." National sales of organic cotton--versatile, affordable and breathable—soared from $86 million in 2001 to $275 million in 2005, and double that figure for global sales, reports Organic Exchange, a non-profit organization. "Eco fashion ranges from surf culture to cocktail-party couture, and the choices are growing all the time," says Mike Korchinsky, CEO of Wildlife Works and founder of Catwalk, an annual eco fashion show in San Francisco. There's also a wider range of natural fabrics for designers to use. Soy and bamboo silks are one of the hottest trends, Korchinsky says, "because they provide the beautiful hand of silk and rayon but come from a sustainable source." This should be welcome

news for the up to 70 percent of U.S. consumers who are interested in healthier, organic products, according to a 2005 Natural Marketing Institute survey. When it's made of reused materials, synthetic fabric can also be eco-correct. Malden Mills, the first to make fleece from recycled plastic soda bottles, has a new 100 percent recyclable Polartec Power Dry fleece that has been picked up by Timberland and Patagonia for fall. "The fast-wicking fibers are made of at least 50 percent recycled fabric polyester," says Jen Rapp, Patagonia director of public relations. "Since we launched our take-back recycling program last year, we've collected over 500 pounds of used Capilene to be recycled into new garments," Rapp adds. Patagonia is also debuting a line of chlorine-free wool base layers. And, they continue to donate one percent of profits to environmental groups (see 1% For The Planet box, right). Timberland is blending Malden's new Polartec with wool

in the Mountain Sweater, part of its fall/winter 2006 Earthkeepers line of organic cotton, recycled wool and hemp apparel and footwear, says David Aznavorian, senior global brand manager. So consumers know what they're getting, Timberland labels will provide information about the shoes' materials, manufacturing processes and environmental effects; the footwear packaging is made of 100 percent recycled post-consumer waste (PCW) fiber with soy-based inks and a water-based adhesive. Part of the lure of green shopping these days is attire made by artisans and worker collectives under safe conditions and for fair wages, (preferably endorsed by the Fair Trade Federation or with Made in USA (unionized) labels). As part of a wilderness conservation project, Wildlife Works is partnering with communities to produce apparel in sub-Saharan Africa. Project Alabama works with "stitchers," veteran seamstresses and women of all ages, to bring back an appreciation for

hand-sewn garments. And celebrities such as Bono and his wife, Ali Hewson, Kyra Sedgwick, Daryl Hannah, Natalie Portman, Sean Penn and Robin Wright-Penn are wearing—and in some cases manufacturing—eco fashion tied to social and environmental causes. Given all these choices, what will you wear? It's up to you. No matter how long after Labor Day, you can still go for heat-deflecting white organic cotton and sandals that are free of toxic PVC. Remember: Green is cool and, as Al Gore reminds us in An Inconvenient Truth, no one likes it too hot. Following are a few new finds for breezing through fall. And, don't forget other green options such as flea markets, thrift stores and swapping clothes with friends. CLOTHING *Try a knee-length, flared skirt with an organic cotton, long-sleeve top. Fisher's organic cotton white top ($78) and organic cotton, knee-length, fold-over waist

skirt will flatter any shape ($118; www.fisher.com, 800-445-1603). *Go eco-glam with Anna Cohen's hemp silk pants in creme or black ($251, www.btcelements.com), or above-the-knee, soy silk cowl dress in black ($276; Nolita, Portland, OR, 503-274-7114; see also www.annacohen.com). *Check out the sleek, Mongolian-inspired knits at Stewart + Brown, members of 1% For The Planet, sold in boutiques nationwide (www.stewartbrown.com). *Sweetgrass's flared hemp Vagabond pants ($72) and hand-crocheted, bell-sleeved, undyed hemp Priestess sweater ($48) might look sweet on you. He may enjoy morning tea and a newspaper in drawstring hemp Zen pants ($70; www.sweetgrassfibers.com, 877-391-8936). *Also for guys: Timberland's men's recycled hemp blazer ($148) and recycled denim five-pocket jeans ($69.50; www.timberland.com, 888-802-9947). *For warmth, revert to basic black, which is once again hip this fall: Patagonia's men's full-zip hoody of organic cotton fleece ($98) and organic cotton Smuggler pants with low zip pocket ($78); women's Two-fer hoody, a reversible, black/brown organic cotton pullover ($50) and kids' Synchilla Marsupial pullover with reflective trim ($54; www.patagonia.com, 800-638-6464). *Support animals and communities with Wildlife Works African-made organic cotton graphic T's for men, women and kids

(from $17), and a charcoal African-print, below-the-knee skirt with hot pink trim ($70; www.wildlifeworks.com, 888-934-WILD). BAGS *Alchemy Goods makes guy bags like the waterproof Haversack of recycled inner tubes ($88; www.alchemygoods.com, 206-484-9469). *Her Design silk, hemp or organic cotton canvas bags are made with low-metal, low-sulfur and formaldehyde-free dyes (from $50; www.her-design.com, 781-631-1491). Nikwax makes non-solvent waterproofing treatments (www.nikwax.com). *Vulcana's hemp-fused Hobo purse is made from recycled rubber tires and hemp fiber, and

comes in black, red or natural ($69; www.vulcanabags.com, 602-538-3860). *Vy & Elle (a play on "vinyl") sells reclaimed vinyl billboard Envoy messenger bags with adjustable seat belt shoulder strap and recycled car-seat buckle (unisex) ($110; www.vyandelle.com), and license plates are reborn as handbags for the Littlearth Canadian round plate bag ($57.60; www.thegreenloop.com, 866-898-5483). FOOTWEAR Note: "Vegan" doesn't mean "eco friendly" if it's made from virgin PVC, which releases cancer-causing dioxins when manufactured. *Reebok's Vanta STP casual shoe has a three-strap closure and leather uppers in silver/black ($49.97); the OTC mule walking shoe has leather and mesh uppers ($39.99; www.reebok.com, 800-727-4412). *Asics Sportstyle Advance 80s-style fencing shoes, men's and women's, come in orange/brown ($70; www.asicsamerica.com, 800-678-9435). *Adbusters Blackspot Unswoosher ($99.95) with recycled tire soles and youthful Blackspot sneaker ($69.95) both have 100 percent hemp uppers; vegan Kristie boot in black, with synthetic microfiber and no PVC, is made by Novacas in Portugal ($109.95; www.mooshoes.com, 866-59-VEGAN). *Earth Pirouette Mary Jane's, Vegan Society certified, have non-vinyl, breathable Japanese microfiber uppers and latex soles ($99; www.earthshoes.com, 877-372-2814). *Simple's green toe lace-up shoe for men

and women has a jute upper and laces, recycled rubber eyelets, rubber-tree crepe outsole, cork insole and is assembled with water-based cements (women $85, men $90; www.simpleshoes.com, 866-896-3708). *Timberland's Winter Park waterproof shoe collection for men and women employs SmartWool merino wool linings, 30 percent recycled rubber outsole (men, $90-$130; women, $90-110); the Earthkeepers men's Zebec slip-on has hemp uppers ($80; www.timberland.com, 888-802-9947). *Tsonga assists and employs African women to handcraft sandals, mules and boots; artsy Izula mule with memory foam pad for comfort, leather uppers in solid colors ($88.95; www.nordstrom.com, 888-282-6060). *For sheer delight, Stella McCartney's vegan, silk

dress sandal as featured in Elle ($495, www.stellamccartney.com). For More Information *"Fiber Facts" at www.thegreenguide.com/doc.mhtml?i=105 & s=fiber *See the Clothing, Shoe and Jewelry Product Reports at www.thegreenguide.com/reports. *Fair Trade Federation (www.fairtradefederation.org, 202-872-5338) *Greenpeace Vinyl Campaign (www.greenpeace.org/usa, 800-326-0959) *Made in USA label (www.ftc.gov, 202-326-2222) *Natural Marketing Institute (www.nmisolutions.com, 215-513-7300) *Organic Matters (www.organic-matters.com, 360-466-4012) *Project Alabama (www.projectalabama.com, 256-764-8230) *Wildlife Works (www.wildlifeworks.com, 888-934-WILD) Peter H