Intern. Vegetarian Congress in China in 2010?

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Growing Appeal

By Wu Chong

 

Every two or three years, vegetarians around the world flock to a special gala

event, which celebrates and promotes their meat-free ideology. Vegetarianism,

they say, is not only a healthy lifestyle but also environmentally friendly.

 

This year, the vegetarian festival happens again in Goa, India, but for the

first time, a delegation from China is joining the party. China is maybe a

newcomer to the festival but it's not a newcomer to the art of making vegetarian

food.

 

" China has a history of more than 10 years in modern vegetarianism development, "

said Chen Haoran, vice-chairman of the China Dietary Culture Institute, who

attended the week-long World Vegetarian Congress last Sunday.

 

" But if you look back further, this is a country with a much older vegetarian

culture. "

 

China will, in fact, bid to host the 39th congress in 2010.

 

Long history

 

In ancient China, people stuck to a diet of only vegetables and fruits before

significant sacrifice ceremonies. It was said to purify the body and spirit in

respect to the gods. Vegetarianism was also practised on the first day and the

middle of each month by ancient Chinese in some regions to remind themselves of

the merit of frugality.

 

Significant development of China's vegetarian food happened around 2,000 years

ago, when Buddhism was introduced to the country, bringing along vegan cuisine,

which strictly inhibits consumption of meat, fish, egg, and any dairy products

as well as garlic, onion, leek and Chinese chives. Even today, many temples are

still topping the list of ideal places for vegan food, attracting not only

Buddhist disciples.

 

Then in Sui and Tang dynasties (AD 581-907), vegetarian food was included into

the royal menu, according to Li Shijing, a prestigious food expert who is now a

member of the Beijing Olympics food security panel.

 

" Different from Buddhist dishes, which are bland and simple, imperial

vegetarian food emphasized the rarity and novelty of materials, original cooking

skills, and charming looks, " Li said.

 

Before Western Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 24), vegetarian menu in China was as

simple as including only vegetables and fruits, with monotonous cooking.

 

Legend had it that in the early part of the dynasty, Liu An, a duke, invented

tofu (bean curd), which has since then become an important and unique ingredient

of China's vegetarian food.

 

Especially in modern days, bean products are widely used to simulate shapes and

flavours of animals to add varieties to dishes as well as to meet the needs of

ordinary consumers, according to Sun Chuanxing, a local cook.

 

Sun has worked in Jing Si Fang, a Beijing-based vegetarian restaurant, for about

three years. Like all the other similar restaurants, many of Jing Si Fang's

prime dishes, such as Fu Ru Dong Hai (Boundless Happiness) and Zi Qi Dong Lai

(Good Luck), are all made of tofu.

 

New taste

 

Zhou Wei, owner of Jing Si Fang, said the majority of its customers were young

people who wanted to try something new. " They are not real vegetarians. So they

prefer dishes with the flavour of meat, " he said.

 

This is the modern trend of Chinese vegetarian food: Made without meat, but with

a meaty taste. " A good taste " is the ultimate goal they pursue.

 

" Some vegetarian restaurants even use egg white for a change of flavour, though

we do not, " said Zhou, who was advised by his wife, a regular vegan, to open the

restaurant nearby the National Art Museum of China in 2003.

 

" Gourmet powder is seldom added in the food. But nowadays, we have to put in

substitute condiments, such as mushroom-flavour powder, to refine the taste. "

 

Jing Si Fang is a small restaurant, which can accommodate only 50 people, but it

is famous for its good value and old age. " Mine is the sixth vegetarian

restaurant in Beijing, " the owner said. But, it took about a year of trading

before profits began to increase, thanks to more awareness about healthy eating.

 

Last year, he set up a larger branch at Xizhimen, with a capacity of 150 people.

The restaurant near the art museum has an average daily sales volume of 2,000

yuan (US$250). That is a mediocre performance for a restaurant, but in Zhou's

opinion, " it is good enough to strike a balance. "

 

Being a follower of Buddhism for six years, Xu often frequents vegetarian

restaurants. " The quality and taste of vegetarian food in Beijing is more or

less the same for me. But to find a cheaper one is not that easy, " he said.

 

The capital has about 30 vegetarian restaurants, with prices ranging from 30 to

300 yuan (US$3.8-38) per capita and the peak season for the business is summer.

In contrast, the colder month of November was slack, according to Zhou.

 

There is no accurate figure about the number of vegetarians in China, but a

report from Taiwan may provide reference.

 

Wen Xuezhen, chairwoman of the world vegetarian culture promotion society, said

in Taiwan, about 3 million people about 10 per cent of the population follow a

vegetarian diet. " And the figure is rising, " she said.

 

Both Chen of the China Dietary Culture Institute and Li, the food expert, agree

the ongoing World Vegetarian Congress is a precious opportunity for China to

expedite the growth of its modern vegetarian food industry. It had a splendid

history: In Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279), there emerged vegetarian

restaurants; and in Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), vegetarian food enjoyed the same

high reputation as other cuisines.

 

Now it is time for a revamp.

 

© 2006 China Daily; North American ed.. Provided by ProQuest Information and

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