Summer's Jell-O Alternative: Agar Agar by ROBIN ASBELL

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EATING HEALTHY

Summer's Jell-O Alternative: Agar Agar by ROBIN ASBELL

 

THEY HAVE BECOME the symbol of the anti-gourmet, a humorous throwback

that belongs in church basement potlucks alongside hot dish. The

unnaturally bright and supernaturally sweet Jell-O mold is a kid

pleaser, and a fond memory of my own childhood. We had a special

Tupperware mold that had pop-in insets for the top, so we could pick

from a star, a heart, or a few other shapes. My Mom made it a big

honor to pick the Jell-O flavor and shape, and to carefully unmold

it. Getting it out of the complicated mold in one piece was cause for

great pride. Now that I avoid gelatin because it's made from animal

hooves, it rarely occurs to me to make Jell-O. The Asian answer to a

nostalgic craving is kanten, a version of Jell-O made with agar agar

sea vegetable. In the heat of the summer, gelled foods can be

refreshing and also quite fortifying, with additions like tofu,

yogurt, cottage cheese, or nut butters.

 

Agar agar is a gelling agent made from a combination of algaes from

the

species gelidium. Other names include dai choy goh, Japanese

isinglass, or kanten, in reference to the dish in which it is

commonly used. The name, agar agar, is Malaysian in origin, and the

harvest of the long red and purple fronds goes back hundreds of

years. The fronds are freeze dried and dehydrated naturally,

producing colorless sheets which are shaped into bars. Agar is

available in the traditional bars, flakes, and powder, all of which

can be used interchangeably for gelling purposes. Long strands of

agar are one of the ingredients in the seaweed salad served at sushi

restaurants.

 

Like the other sea vegetables, agar is a good source of iodine (100

grams agar has 160 milligrams of iodine), as well as some calcium and

iron. It has no calories, and according to Paul Pitchford, promotes

digestion and weight loss, treats hemorrhoids, and carries toxic and

radioactive waste out of the body. It is cooling in nature, and

reduces inflammations and other heat conditions as described in

traditional Chinese medicine.

 

Instead of mixing Jell-O with synthetic whipped topping and canned

fruit, try gelling just about any refreshing liquid–even coffee, or

chai tea. Make a gel of it. Is your morning smoothie routine getting

old? Dissolve some agar and make a pudding of it, to eat with a spoon

on hot mornings. Iced tea is cooling, but tea kanten is filling, too.

The rainbow of juices available in concentrate or bottled form makes

the variety of fruit gels endless–from raspberry juice with fresh

bananas in summer, to spiced cider with cranberries in fall. Creamy

and higher protein snacks can be made with purees of tofu, lowfat

cottage cheese, or fat free yogurt.

 

Macrobiotic recipes often add body to the kanten by adding some

tahini or almond butter. The savory aspic has never really caught on

here, perhaps because we only associate gels with Jell-O. For a

change of pace, a savory vegetable mold can be served like salad, and

dressed with vinaigrette. Vegetable or meat stocks can be gelled to

hold assorted tidbits for a traditional aspic. Tomato or fresh

vegetable juices can be jelled for a smooth and cooling terrine. For

a showy garnish, gel some savory juices in a square pan, then unmold

and dice the juice to scatter over chilled vegetable salads.

 

The mechanics of cooking with agar differ slightly from those of

gelatin. Generally, powdered agar can be substituted in equal measure

for powdered plain gelatin. In substituting agar for gelatin,

remember that agar may not set when mixed with vinegar or foods high

in oxalic acid, like spinach, chocolate, or rhubarb. Agar gelled

liquids will stay solid at room temperature, while gelatin will

eventually melt. To use agar bars, rinse them in cold water, wring

them out and tear in small pieces, then add to the cooking liquid.

One agar bar is equal to four tablespoons of flakes or two teaspoons

of powder, and one bar or its equivalent will gel two cups of liquid.

Unlike gelatin, all forms of agar need to simmer for a while to

dissolve, and letting them soak in the liquid for an hour or two

gives you a head start.

The following recipes can be made with gelatin, if you have no

aversion to

eating hooves, using the measurements for powdered agar. So dig out

that old Jell-O mold and get creative–without the Technicolor jiggle.

Creamy Cherry Pudding

Use 5 tablespoons agar for a firm texture, or 3 for soft and creamy.

 

5 tablespoons agar flakes

1 cup cherry fruit juice concentrate

1 package Mori Nu silken extra firm lite tofu, or 1-1/2 cups cottage

cheese

1/2 cup yogurt or soy yogurt

1/4 cup honey

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon lemon rind, grated

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1-1/2 cups cherries, pitted

 

Sprinkle agar over juice concentrate in a small saucepan. Bring to a

boil, then reduce heat and simmer, stirring often, until agar

dissolves. In blender or food processor, puree tofu or cottage cheese

completely, scraping down and processing until smooth. Add yogurt,

honey, vanilla, lemon zest and juice and puree to mix, then add agar

mixture and process.

Chill the mixture for an hour, then fold in cherries and scrape into

a 4 cup mold or bowl. Chill until firm. To unmold, dip mold in hot

water for 2 minutes, put a plate on top and flip over.

 

Agar Fruit Jam

Serves four

 

3 tablespoons agar flakes

1/3 cup fruit juice

2 cups fruit, mashed or chopped

1/2 cup sweetener

1 teaspoon lemon juice

 

In a medium saucepan, stir agar and juice and bring to a simmer. When

agar is dissolved, add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil.

Cook for 1 minute, then pour into sterilized jars and seal. Keep

refrigerated for up to a month.

 

Robin Asbell is owner and chef of Natural Foods Chef In Home Catering

Services and has over 15 years experience in the natural foods

industry. Her natural foods cooking classes are offered at Whole

Foods Market, Kitchen Window, Edina Continuing Education, The Marsh,

and Williams Sonoma. Member, International Association of Culinary

Professionals. 612-724-5107; email asbellr.