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Much of this is puff, but there is also

considerable information of value here to Chinese

activists working in opposition to the fur trade.

 

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Toronto Globe & Mail Friday, November 27, 2009

 

Mink dynasty

A global recession and animal rights activists

have devastated the fur market in Europe and

North America. Not so in China, where a Canadian

company is leading the charge

Chris Nuttall-Smith

 

The illusionist isn't fooling anybody. The

audience claps and cheers, all right, but more at

the feebleness of his so-called powers than at

his ability, with the help of an enormous privacy

screen and an awkward delay, to transform a

satiny black ranch mink bedspread and pillows

into thick, brown northern sable ones. The

gee-how-did-he-ever-get-that-mobile-phone-all-the-way-over-there-into-the-fur-li\

ned-cookie-jar

trick? Pure camp. But still, the crowd of high

rollers, sipping Great Wall wine in the basement

of Beijing's Jinbao Place Palace of Global

Luxury, is politely transfixed. Vogue and Elle

China, not to mention China's main television

network and the important newspapers, have all

sent cameras for the spectacle, a fashion show

where the fashions are black mink cookie jars,

$20,000 fisher bedspreads and picture frames made

from fur.

 

Wong Jian Hua, the pioneering salesman whose

fast-growing enterprise, called Polardeck,

retails these high-end fur housewares (the firm's

mission is to " create life of joy and happiness

for high-income groups in China and around the

world and to introduce the aristocratic lifestyle

in Europe in the 1970s into the Chinese

families " ) approaches the stage, beaming. " I'm

sure you all enjoyed the show as much as I did, "

he says. Afterwards, VIPs retreat to a suite of

private dining rooms for Peking duck, lobster

soup and foie gras en gelée.

 

While Wong was the evening's official host, its

impresario clearly was Diane Benedetti,

international director of the marketing arm of

Toronto-based North American Fur Auctions, the

world's No. 3 fur auction house, which produced

the magic show to thank Wong for his business. To

the extent that ordinary Chinese people have

heard of NAFA-and more and more every day, they

have-Benedetti is the reason why. Though she

doesn't speak much Mandarin, Benedetti, a former

model, has made an art of blundering and charming

her way into China's booming new luxury fur

market. Benedetti and her company, built from the

remains of the Hudson's Bay Co.'s New York and

Canadian fur holdings, are a big part of the

reason the market even exists.

 

She has mounted fur fashion spectacles at a

military aviation museum outside of Beijing

( " They had a chopper from Vietnam all full of

bullet holes-it was sensational! " she says); at

an international model search in Tibet, for which

she was also a judge ( " We were the grand

finale!); in the Great Hall of the People (a

newswire story a while later guessed that Mao

must have been rolling in his grave); and in

countless shopping malls and public squares

around the country, where, when she's not

employing wildly underskilled illusionists, she

arrays teepees, canoes, polar bear rugs, snow

machines and models dressed like Pocahontas to

sell the company's wares.

 

The work is paying off. NAFA sold some $250

million worth of skins to China in 2008,

accounting for more than 70% of the company's

total sales. And even as other important fur

markets-Russia, in particular-dropped out almost

entirely this year in the wake of the global

financial crisis, China has turned that dip in

global demand into an opportunity: Many Chinese

manufacturers have seized on lower auction prices

to increase their production; they're betting

that Chinese customers will more than pick up the

slack.

 

The Chinese are besotted with luxury goods, but

fur might well be the most in-demand luxury item

of all. In Beijing and Shenyang, in the country's

frigid north and even across its monsoon-prone

southeast coast, where winter temperatures can

often climb into the high 20s, newly wealthy

members of the country's surging middle class

can't seem to get enough mink and wild fur coats.

 

The development couldn't come at a better time

for the industry. Fur sales in North America and

Western Europe have collapsed in the past two

decades; where customers in Chicago, New York,

Montreal, Frankfurt and Milan were once the

lifeblood of the fur trade, they barely warrant a

footnote on the industry's balance sheets today.

So far this year, China has bought more than 80%

of the global supply of raw skins. Companies like

NAFA can't afford to have their China efforts

fail.

 

Yet before China became the industry's saviour,

the great new market was Russia, and before

Russia, Japan and Korea. Through much of the

1980s, buyers from Japan and Korea bid global

prices to historic levels. That bubble priced

many of fur's more established markets out of the

business. When Korea and Japan collapsed in the

early 1990s, they took much of the industry down

with them.

 

So is the fur craze in the People's Republic of

Bling a bubble? Of course it is: It's overheated,

it could end at any moment, and everybody seems

to be exposed. Except this time, Benedetti and

her Canadian bosses are hoping the bubble won't

blow up in their faces.

 

It's February auction week at NAFA's enormous

headquarters and auction house near Toronto's

Pearson airport-the most important week of the

year. Sales over these five days will account for

55% of the company's 2009 revenues. Between the

wall-to-wall display racks in the company's

warehouse and the boxes of skins in the adjoining

Costco-sized cold room, there are millions of

animal pelts here. The timber-wolf hides, hanging

from plastic ties, are bushy, frighteningly large

and weirdly strokeable (the top lot will sell for

$340 per skin); the lynx skins have huge paws and

mottled, beautiful, snowy-orange bellies ($530).

There are silver foxes, wolverines, opossums,

raccoons, skunks and even squirrels, which sell

for a measly $1.43 per skin.

 

About 430 bidders have come this year from North

America, Greece, Turkey, Italy, Japan, Korea and

Russia; the number's down from 500 in 2008. But

the country that will almost single-handedly prop

up NAFA's sales is China-200 Chinese bidders are

here this week; 250 if you count Hong Kong. About

a dozen sit just outside the auction room,

playing poker, betting from stacks of

100-renminbi (RMB) notes and waiting for their

lots to come up. The Chinese buyers have come

largely for mink, which also happens to be NAFA's

specialty.

 

While NAFA sells more wild fur than any other

auction house on Earth-$45 million worth in

2008-mink is the company's mainstay. NAFA sold

5.4 million mink skins in 2008, worth $280

million. North American mink is different from

the European stuff, and this, more than almost

anything, gives the company its competitive

advantage. The nap is shorter and finer, and the

under-fur is thicker, so the pelts feel extra

soft. Mink skins from North America are also

lighter in weight, which makes them ideal for

women's garments. North American mink sells at a

10% to 50% premium, depending on the sex, the

colour-mink comes in shades from white to pearl

to sapphire to black-and the quality of the fur.

The top lot of black NAFA mink can sell for

between $500 and $2,100 per skin. (Depending on

its length, it takes between 13 and 40 skins to

make a coat.)

 

The company's come a long way from its roots

selling beaver skins to London aristocrats in the

1600s. Through much of the history of the fur

trade, the Hudson's Bay Co. was the only player

that mattered, and with a few exceptions-China's

imperial court, for example, bought Canadian

yellow sable from the 1700s on-the company

focused almost entirely on markets in Europe and

North America.

 

Then, in 1975, the animal rights movement seized

on images of Eastern Canadian hunters bludgeoning

harp seal pups in the Gulf of St. Lawrence;

activists bearing cameras, U.S. senators and even

Brigitte Bardot visited the ice floes to call

attention to the annual hunt. Before long,

activists were throwing paint on women in fur

coats. Across the Western world, fur, whether

wild or farmed, slipped from must-have to faux

pas in little more than a decade.

 

Amid all this, Ken Thomson, who then owned HBC,

began selling off corporate assets to pay down

its debts. In 1986, Thomson sold the company's

London-based fur auction house to Finnish Fur

Sales. A group of veteran Hudson's Bay Co.

managers, backed by fox and mink associations

from the U.S. and Canada, bought the company's

Toronto auction house, and then Hudson's Bay New

York, and combined the two into NAFA.

 

The new enterprise started life in last place: In

1987, NAFA's first year in operation (it was

still called HBC Fur Sales at the time),

Kopenhagen Fur Centre sold nearly six times the

number of mink that NAFA did, and the Finns

weren't far behind. NAFA was even outmatched in

North America: American Legend Co., based in

Seattle, became known as the go-to auction for

the world's best mink.

 

Yet business was good, for a while. Japan and

Korea, oblivious to animal welfare concerns,

drove fur prices to record highs. " The fur

industry has never been healthier, " the director

of the Fur Institute of Canada, an industry

group, said in 1987.

 

But the Wall Street crash that October dispatched

what was left of the North American and European

markets; when Japan and Korea followed a few

years later, mink prices fell from their 1987

average of $52 per skin to around $20. Every

week, it seemed, another fur-trade heavy went

bankrupt and shut its doors. NAFA lost some $25

million in 1990 and 1991, says Herman Jansen,

then the new company's vice-president of sales

and wild fur. " We were desperate, " he says. " The

industry was desperate. "

 

There was one bright spot left in the market.

Hong Kong's garment industry, capitalizing on its

access to cheap labour and experience with mass

production, picked off much of the work that

small ateliers and family-owned factories in

Montreal, New York and Paris had been doing for

centuries. As the Chinese government began to

open up the mainland to outside investment, the

Hong Kong Boys, as Benedetti still refers to

them, began moving their factories north, to

where labour costs were lower, and where a few

ambitious factory owners sensed they might find

an emerging market.

 

Benedetti moved to Hong Kong in the mid-1980s,

working as a freelance fashion consultant and fur

promoter. In 1992, a Hong Kong fur company hired

her to help it break into the mainland's retail

market, by producing a series of small fashion

shows in northeastern China. The north of the

country had a history of using fur-state-run

factories churned out styleless, utilitarian

jackets, often made with raccoons, fox and even

house cats- " freaky fur, " as Benedetti calls it.

Her shows-held in government department stores

with intermittent power and bare floors-were

mobbed with cash-waving locals who had never seen

anything like them.

 

Jansen, too, had travelled to China, and he saw

the potential. If China ever started buying

quality fur in any quantity, the country could

save the business. " We knew we had to go to

China, " Jansen says. " It was just a question of

how to get in. "

 

NAFA appealed, first, to the Hong Kong trade, but

the factories there used European mink almost

exclusively, and few of the owners had any

intention of changing. Theirs were volume

operations; they didn't want to pay a premium

price for North American mink, or to have the

hassle of learning to work with a new product.

The European auctions had a huge head-start on

the mainland, too: Finnish Fur Sales had a long

history of selling blue fox there, for the

trimming on leather jackets. Kopenhagen had also

made inroads, and had been allowed to throw a

fashion show in Beijing just before the market

crash. American Legend, meanwhile, was the

preferred auction for the few manufacturers who

wanted North American fur. NAFA would have to

work its way up from last place.

 

Benedetti, working for NAFA now, hauled sample

furs to malls in the country's more promising

areas, particularly in northeastern cities such

as Harbin and Shenyang, inviting shoppers and

factory owners to feel the difference between

European and North American mink. Slowly, the

company started making headway. In the fall of

1995, Benedetti used her contacts in Hong Kong to

win permission for a NAFA fashion show in a

stadium in Baoding, a few hours south of Beijing.

She and her colleagues brought the pelts into the

country in hockey bags, and transported them from

their hotel to the stadium on a convoy of bicycle

carts. Nausea was a constant problem: Nearly

every meeting with her hosts involved elaborate,

multicourse meals, and every meal was lubricated

with endless, and mandatory, shots of sorghum

liquor.

 

In the weeks leading up to the show, Benedetti

told the Chinese officials that, as the show's

director, she would require headsets to

communicate with her assistants backstage and in

the lighting booth. " They kept saying, 'yeah,

yeah, don't worry.' " On the day of the show, they

turned up with 20-kilogram military backpack

radios-the type that were used to call in air

strikes during the Second World War. " It wasn't

funny at that moment. "

 

In spite of the difficulties, the show attracted

8,000 onlookers-a capacity crowd-as well as media

attention. Images of the furs, and the company's

name, were beamed across the world's most

populous country.

 

But the coup de grâce came in November of 1998.

Benedetti had been casting around for a truly

monumental venue for months-and nabbed Beijing's

Great Hall of the People. The building, at the

western end of Tiananmen Square, is sacred to

China's Communist Party. Built in a mere 10

months in 1959 by an army of " volunteers, " the

hall was one of Chairman Mao's " Ten Great

Constructions. " It is the home of the National

People's Congress-the country's rubber-stamp

legislature-and has been the site of innumerable

state dinners, including the one thrown for

Richard Nixon during his groundbreaking visit in

1972.

 

Government officials rebuffed Benedetti's request

at first: Nobody had ever held a fashion show in

the Hall before, much less a Western firm. The

Hall could only be used for cultural events, she

was told. " Well, of course it's cultural, "

Benedetti replied. " I said we wanted to-I can't

remember what kind of crap we said in those

days-share our friendship. "

 

The result mixed pure, North American catwalk

spectacle-shapely models high-stepping in

high-end mink-and, true to what Benedetti

promised, cultural celebration. She had the stage

designed to look like part of Beijing's Forbidden

City, and for the opening scene, Benedetti

dressed the models in slightly modernized takes

on traditional Tibetan clothing: colourful

hand-woven wool belts, wool and cotton boots, and

the multihued aprons that many married Tibetan

women wear. Of course, every one of the models

wore fur, from red- and purple-dyed raccoon and

fox, to yellow sable hats and coats. Nearly a

year later, Jansen says, television coverage of

the show was still playing in heavy rotation in

the business-class section of China Airlines'

flights.

 

The little company that had been last into China

had shown just how serious it was about working

there-and unlike Kopenhagen, which had pulled out

of the country after the fur crash at the end of

the eighties, NAFA gave every indication that it

was in for the long haul. " With the Chinese, it

really takes time to build relationships, " says

Tina Jagros, who runs NAFA's promotional arm and

has spent much of the last decade travelling

there. " People want to know you're still going to

be there in five years. "

 

Workers at the sprawling Zhejiang Zhonghui Fur

and Leather Co. tannery and factory complex pull

rickety bamboo handcarts filled with fox and

raccoon skins through a maze of low-rise

buildings. Discarded rabbit pelts lie in the

roadway, fluffy white puffballs tattooed black by

a hundred tires. But inside the office of Hu Jian

Zhong, the company's chairman, everything is

clean and terminally shiny: The wood laminate

floors gleam like polished mirrors, and a

surround-sound stereo system and enormous

flat-panel Samsung-now playing a very slick,

albeit syntactically egregious English-language

company promotional video called " Great Industry

in Flourishing Era " -claims pride of place on a

glossy black dais.

 

There are entire towns in China that make nothing

but buttons, or toy bikes, or hardware for

underwire bras; when a factory opens up and finds

success, it doesn't take long for workers to bolt

and start up their own competing business.

Tongxiang, where Hu's company is headquartered,

was traditionally a textile and leather centre,

but like many other places of its kind, the city

has rapidly retooled to catch the latest trend,

transforming itself into a sort of Fur City. Hu's

complex is one of the biggest. The operation

manufactures 150,000 fur garments a year, and

consumes one million sheepskins and 150,000 mink

annually (50,000 of these mink skins were

purchased at NAFA's auction in Toronto earlier

this year).

 

NAFA is hoping to help take the company's

business upmarket. Most of the furs that Zhejiang

Zhonghui produces are low-to-middle quality at

best. One visiting NAFA board member is drawn to

admire a cheap mink coat that's dyed canary

yellow. The fur is matted and rough in spots, he

notes, instead of supple and soft. And yet the

jacket-and others like it, he soon sees-have

already made it past the factory's quality

inspector. NAFA views this sort of quality level,

as well as its low price point, as a temporary

evil, at best, and is all too happy to leave the

bottom of the market to its competitors.

Salesgirls aren't NAFA's target customers- " unless

they have a very, very rich boyfriend, " Benedetti

later says. But the company also knows that

master furriers almost never start out in the

business with whole, high-end skins-they learn to

cut and sew with floor scraps and work their way

up. Many consumers also start out with cheap,

simple fur garments, and trade up over time. And

so NAFA has made a practice of getting in early

with ambitious companies, and pulling them up

along the way.

 

Hu's company, established in 1993, is on that

path. He says he's less interested these days in

garments made with sheep and rabbit than those

made with mink, because that's what Chinese

customers want. Hu says he plans to grow that

business by at least 20% annually. He's willing

to pay for his move upmarket, as well. Through a

broker, Hu bought the top lot of

mahogany-coloured mink at NAFA's auction last

February, for which he bid $150 per skin-a $115

premium over the average. (Top lots typically

contain 50 skins.)

 

After this year's auction, NAFA encouraged Hu to

send his best garment, made with that top-lot

mink, back to Toronto, where the auction house

hired a model, hair and makeup artists and a

fashion photographer; NAFA's in-house designers

then turned the photographs into posters and

billboards, all to a standard that-as much of the

display advertising around southern China

attests-isn't quite as readily achievable inside

the country. The company also produced a DVD that

documents the Toronto shoot-and which Hu plays,

on a continuous loop, on a big-screen television

in his store. This fall, Benedetti, along with

Lumin Yao, a cheery York MBA graduate and Chinese

national who is the marketing director in China,

were also trying to figure out if they could

stage a fashion show for Hu later in the season,

at a new fur mall he opened this past September.

 

In Tongerpu, Shenyang and Harbin, all in the

country's northeast, there are more than a dozen

fur malls-North American-style shopping centres,

but where the only thing you can buy is fur.

Tongerpu has six free-standing fur shopping

malls, selling everything from fur gloves,

jackets and hats to fur car-seat covers; there's

a seventh mall, bigger and better than all the

rest, of course, now under construction and due

to open next year. In Harbin, Zhang Mian, a

34-year-old furpreneur, opened the city's first

top-end fur mall last year; he also has a chain

of 77 mink stores that spans the country, and

plans to increase that number to 100 by year's

end. Zhang says he's expecting sales to nearly

double to 35,000 garments, from 20,000 pieces

last year.

 

Even China's subtropical southeastern coast has

gone fur-crazy. One mall and manufacturing

complex in Yuyao, a booming city south of

Shanghai, has 300 stores jammed with racks of

48,000 RMB ($8,000) black mink bomber jackets and

full-length, 200,000 RMB ($33,000) Canadian sable

coats. The mall has a " fur interpretive centre, "

chronicling the history of fur fashion in China.

February in Yuyao can bring 28 C weather-by all

rights, selling fur garments here should be as

hard as hawking high-end ice cubes in Iqaluit.

But as one mall owner in the region said, " Men in

China all want to have a nice watch. Well, women

want something nice, too, so they get their

husbands to buy them a mink. " The Yuyao complex

has nearly doubled its sales in each of its three

years in business; its owner is now planning to

build a second complex next door.

 

NAFA has made it its business to be there for the

malls' owners. One developer named Zhao Bin,

scrambling early this fall to open his new mall

in Shenyang in time for the busy season, had

installed a 47-inch plasma television in the

building's lobby, where he planned to play DVDs

of NAFA fashion shows from Milan and Hong Kong;

NAFA posters filled lightboxes through five

storeys of marbled halls, and outside, a

three-storey-tall NAFA poster, showing a leggy

blonde in a black mink wrap, was strung over a

lightbox on the building's side. Zhao said that

he had even threatened some of his merchants who

had put up cheap-looking advertising that he

would replace it with NAFA's art. NAFA helped

Zhao when he first started out in the fur

business, with a mall he opened in 1998, he says.

" NAFA is the best, " he adds. " NAFA has always

been very serious about its work. " When I suggest

that NAFA, too, should be happy to have him

displaying so many of its posters, Lumin Yao

tells me to shut up, so as not to give Zhao any

ideas.

 

NAFA's educational efforts have become its

central narrative in China: Work with us and we

will help you succeed. Tina Jagros, of NAFA's

marketing arm, says the company's China budget is

still minuscule, considering the market's size.

NAFA will spend less than $1 million on its China

operations this year, she says, quickly adding,

" It's not so much about throwing money around in

China. The money is the easy part. " And yet the

payoff has been enormous: Only Kopenhagen is

bigger globally these days, and the gap appears

to be shrinking.

 

Late last summer, the Beijing Fur Fair and China

Tushu, a major Chinese crown corporation, named

NAFA as the official sponsor of the country's

annual fur design competition, which was renamed

" the NAFA Cup. "

 

What did NAFA do to earn the billing? " Not much, "

Benedetti shrugged. China Tushu and the fur fair

were putting up all the money, the advertising

(including a new billboard headlined " Dawn of New

Decade. " " Oh great, " Benedetti muttered when she

first saw it, " they missed the 'A' " ), a gala

banquet for a few thousand people and-not to be

underestimated-the seal of approval from a

powerful arm of the Chinese government. NAFA

covered the soft costs, as Benedetti calls them:

skins for the designers to use and prizes for the

winners (including a week at the company's

Toronto design studio). And, of course, the fur

fair would avail itself of Benedetti's fashion

show expertise.

 

Can NAFA outlast the bubble? Travelling around

the country, it's common to meet retailers and

manufacturers who rode market waves for leather,

and then for cashmere, neither of which are as

popular with Chinese consumers today as they once

were. Politics and protectionism-China does have

its own fur producers, even if their goods are

usually of poor quality-can also upend a

company's China fortunes overnight.

 

The state of the greenback doesn't help. Much of

NAFA's success is a function of exchange rates,

says Herman Jansen, the managing director: It's

far cheaper for international buyers to shop with

dollars, which NAFA uses, than euros.

 

The most worrisome development for the company,

however, is Europe's progress in raising

short-napped mink. NAFA has built its brand in

China largely around the superiority of its fur,

after all-the uniqueness of the product has been

the company's greatest bulwark against Kopenhagen

and the Finns. But European mink ranchers have

since figured out the formula, and now they've

begun producing short-napped mink that's almost

indistinguishable from the North American stuff,

Jansen says, in every colour but the most

sought-after ones: mahogany and black. Where

Kopenhagan offered 500,000 North American-style

mink skins four years ago, it sold four million

this year-a number that's just shy of North

America's total production-and the figure will

only continue to grow.

 

In response, NAFA is pursuing an aggressive

growth strategy, with the aim of enabling buyers

to skip the European auctions altogether. In

recent years, NAFA has tired to poach some of the

best mink ranchers in eight European countries.

The company sold 2.4 million European mink this

year in Toronto, compared to three million from

North America. " What we'd like to do is be a

one-stop shop, " Jansen says.

 

Jansen, speaking somewhat cryptically, suggests

that the Toronto company has made overtures to

American Legend, as well. " Over time these two

companies will merge, " he says. " Guaranteed. It

only makes sense. Logically there should be just

one North American auction house. " The

difficulty, Jansen says, is that ALC, a

co-operative, is ruled by its members. " People

aren't always logical. "

 

Russia, whenever its economy rebounds, " will be

absolutely huge " as a consumer market, say Jansen

and others in the company. The country is an

important market not only for garments but also

for trim and fur hats (the latter are especially

attractive to furriers because they fall apart

after a couple of seasons). Other possibilities?

Northern India, another cold region in a hugely

populous, fast-developing, bling-loving country.

Iran is cold, also, Jansen says, adding, " We

haven't been there yet. "

 

And even though a few luxury business analysts

have begun to worry that China's major cities are

starting to suffer luxury fatigue, Benedetti and

Jansen contend that there's room for plenty more

growth in China, particularly in less-developed

regions; the company's agents are pushing into

promising new areas, including Urumqi, a wealthy

and-even by China's standards-exceedingly

fast-growing city in China's northwest corner,

near the Kazakhstani border.

 

But perhaps the most important step for the

industry, psychically at least, is the few baby

steps the fur trade has taken back into North

America. Jansen, for one, argues that the

industry has cleaned up its act on hunting and

trapping methods; the company's ranchers and

trappers work ethically and humanely, he says.

Fur promoters have seized on a new argument, too.

Last winter, the Fur Council of Canada ran

billboards in Canadian cities to announce that

" Fur is Green. " " If we don't use part of what

nature produces, we will use petroleum-based

synthetics or other materials that may damage the

environment, " the campaign's website elaborates.

" We've got to get fur back onto shopping lists, "

Jansen says.

 

Back in Toronto, in a sun-filled studio on the

top floor of a converted warehouse in Liberty

Village, Lynda Jagros-May, the head of NAFA's

design studio (she is Tina Jagros's sister), is

working to build an international network of

fur-using loyalists. Studio NAFA, as it's called,

is both a promotional tool and a hedge, of sorts:

The company hosts fashion designers, students and

fur technicians from established and developing

markets and teaches them new ways to use its

wares. While many of the students come from Hong

Kong and China, the studio hosts groups from

Turkey, Korea, Greece, Russia, Italy and North

America as well.

 

On a Wednesday afternoon last summer, Jagros-May

and Basil Kardasis, the company's creative

director (he teaches design at London's Royal

College of Art when he's not in Toronto), are

taking a class of Chinese designers through a

stack of novel fur samples. In one of them, white

and black mink has been cut into strips almost as

narrow as fettuccine, then sewn back together

into a herringbone pattern. Jagros-May shows

samples in which the fur has been turned into

checkerboards and waves. She shows strips of red

fox and coyote sewn onto chiffon, with subtle

plays on fur direction where the fabric reflects

light back and forth like a swimming pool at noon.

 

Sophie Wu, a design manager for Ports

International, tugs at one sample of a mink skin

that's been cut into a fine honeycomb pattern, so

it stretches easily and readily slips back into

its original shape; when Jagros-May notices her,

Wu looks like she's had an epiphany. " I really

wanted to do this with our sweaters, " she says,

" but I didn't know how. "

 

" We're going to show you, " Jagros-May says.

 

Near the end of her presentation, Jagros-May

pulls out a sample made from silver fox; it looks

full and decadent, like it should cost tens of

thousands of dollars, but when she flips the

fabric over, the students see that it's made by

sewing thin strips of fur, alternating with a

thicker strip of leather: What little fox fur the

technique uses is so long that it hides the

leather filler in between the strips.

 

" This one takes me back to when I was 15, and my

father was a furrier, " Jagros-May says. " I worked

in the family store on weekends. At night I

worked in a store that was called Fairweather. "

She's referring, of course, to the middle-brow

Canadian clothing chain.

 

" These coats sold for-a jacket was $250, a

fingertip-length was $500, and a full-length was

just $750. They sold thousands of them, " she

remembers. " Furriers like my father were so

angry. "

 

" But the benefit was that an 18-year-old girl

could afford a fur. It would fall apart, of

course, but the beauty of it was that that girl

would go on to buy a proper fur coat. "

 

" They're seduced by it, " Kardasis interjects.

 

" Once it seduces you, it's a thing you want to have, " Jagros-May says.

 

Or that is the hope, at least. It's hard not to

think, as the two of them work to sell those

Chinese designers on a dream that has failed them

at home, that the company-the entire industry-now

has an opportunity in China to roll the clock

back to its glory days. And maybe this time

around, they'll get it right.

 

---

--

Merritt Clifton

Editor, ANIMAL PEOPLE

P.O. Box 960

Clinton, WA 98236

 

Telephone: 360-579-2505

Fax: 360-579-2575

E-mail: anmlpepl

Web: www.animalpeoplenews.org

 

[ANIMAL PEOPLE is the leading independent

newspaper providing original investigative

coverage of animal protection worldwide, founded

in 1992. Our readership of 30,000-plus includes

the decision-makers at more than 10,000 animal

protection organizations. We have no alignment

or affiliation with any other entity. $24/year;

for free sample, send address.]

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