Vegan venture turned into magical experience of an exotic culture

[Guest guest]

By Graham HoweIn the first of a new food series on the ethics of what we eat, Graham Howe explores vegan cuisine at Addis, an Ethiopian restaurant on Long Street, which offers exotic vegetarian cuisine. Over dinner he meets the first of his interview subjects - Karen Johnson, an animal rights activist who has launched a novel "veg pledge" campaign - and invites readers to spend a meat-free week enjoying a vegan or vegetarian diet. "Tena yestelegn (good day)," greets the doorman. The saddle stools at the doorway to Addis hint at the magical world which lies inside. Ascending a staircase illuminated with Coptic crosses, we enter an Aladdin's cave of silver staffs, elaborate Ethiopian murals, conical wicker tables, colourful umbrella lights and carved village chairs.Exploring the delightful nooks and crannies of the three-storey restaurant on a quiet Monday night, it takes us a while to find the right intimate space

for a conversation. The décor at Addis in Cape - sister restaurant to Addis in Dar, which opened in Tanzania 10 years ago by the same owners - is exotic and evocative, from the religious artifacts to the exposed old red-brick walls of the heritage building. The menu is divided equally into vegetarian and non-vegetarian delights. Owner Senait Mekonnen explains that vegetarian fare is a staple diet for many Ethiopians, who call it "fasting food" - as Coptic Christians refrain from eating meat on Wednesdays, Fridays and over religious festivals like Easter. We've obviously come to the right place to begin my pilgrimage into the ethics of what we eat.Every object at Addis tells a story of an ancient Ethiopian culture of emperors, cliff-side monasteries and coffee ceremonies. When our starters arrive, the waitress removes the wicker cone to reveal a table ingeniously set in the base.The service is attentive and warm in the African

way. Nono, our waitress, shows us how to unroll the signature injera - an indigenous bread made from fermented rice flour. Injera is used like roti, which you eat with your hands, and is coated in delicious berbere (an aromatic, spicy masala) and kibe (a spicy clarified herbal butter). We dip injera into zesty azifa - a paste of lentils in olive and mustard oil. Karen Johnson, my dinner companion, is delighted with the wide choice of vegan fare at Addis. She is the founder of Elated - an acronym for "Enhancing the Lives of Animals Through Ethical Decisions" - affiliated to Animal Rights for Africa. A committed vegan, she does not eat any animal products, including dairy, eggs and honey. She runs tables at malls throughout Cape Town to promote "compassionate food" and to educate the public about the cruel treatment of animals in factory farms. She says: "God's life-force is in every being. Animals are sentient beings which can feel pain

and pleasure. On a spiritual level you imbibe all the suffering of animals when you eat meat. You'll feel elated when you don't - that's the concept."The meaty side of dinner was the conversation

 

 

 

 

. Karen is irrepressibly passionate and convincing about her vegan cause. She says the ethical decision about what we eat is a personal journey. She's come up with an inspired "veg pledge" - inviting the public to sign a commitment to not eat a specific meat for a week - or to go all the way and experience the benefits of a vegetarian or vegan diet instead. She believes "all we need to do is plant a seed of compassion in people's minds". If you sign up, she'll even send you a beaded animal key-ring ("to remind you of the animal you're saving") and a vegan recipe guide to cruelty-free eating.We were ready for mains by now. I'm relieved

we've only ordered vegan dishes - despite the tempting beg alicha (lamb simmered in turmeric, ginger and garlic) and doro wot (chicken marinated in lime juice and berbere) on the menu. We break bread and share four divine dishes spread on an extra-large injera "crepe" with vegetable pickle - misir wot (lentils in a rich sauce), kike alicha wot (chickpeas in a chunky stew), a mushroom stew and shiro wot (a spicy vegetarian paste). The fare is dark and aromatic, the flavours are earthy and robust with a sweet, spicy aftertaste."What's wot?" I joked with the waitress. Wot is the Ethiopian name for sauce, she explained as she identified the ingredients. You're welcome to eat the injera base though there is plenty of the fluffy, paper-thin bread on the side. According to Ethiopian tradition, your host is obliged to keep replenishing the food if you're so hungry you eat the edible base. Through the glass walls of the kitchen we watched the

Ethiopian cooks preparing the paper-thin injera on flat clay disc stoves. "Your tastebuds come alive when you stop eating meat," says Karen. "Any food cooked and contaminated by meat or fish has a dead, pungent taste. Our dinner proves that vegan food is not bland."The cholesterol and saturated fats in animal products are killing people through strokes, cardiac problems and cancer. A vegan diet is good for your health and the environment - animal factory farming is a major cause of global warming." Ok, I'll take the pledge for seven days - where do I sign up?Addis is a sensory experience of an exotic culture - far more than a restaurant. We finish a feast with a glass of tej (Ethiopian honey wine) and herbal tea. As they say in Addis, "Konjo megeb naw! Des blognal (The food is delicious! I am happy)."

Addis in Cape, 41 Church Street, Cape Town. Open Mon-Sat for lunch and dinner. To book, call 021 424 5722. A typical three-course vegetar ian, meat or fish meal, excluding alcohol, comes to R125 per head. Fully licensed with excellent wine list. Vegetarian lunch- time specials. This review was unannounced and paid for in full.

For more information on Elated and vegan projects, and to take the veg pledge, see www.elated.co.za or email karen (AT) elated (DOT) co.za. It could change your life.http://www.tonight.co.za/index.php?fArticleId=4233925 & fSectionId=372 & fSetId=251

Peter H

 

Sent from - a smarter inbox.