Vegan Way of Life can be tasty as well as fresh and healthy

March 29, 2008

Mike McCall , The Edmonton JournalPublished: Friday, March 28, 2008

WAY OF LIFE/MODE DE VIE

10203 116th St., 455-1230,

Lunch for two, approximately $25,

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Odette Boily's serves her homemade soup.

Bruce Edwards, The Journal

dinner by reservation only

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Way of Life/Mode de Vie is eponymous, the restaurant taking its name from the directing charity. Founded in 1982 by Odette Boily, also president and chef, its raison d'Ãªtre is "to promote and restore health at all levels." To this end it is one of Edmonton's only vegan restaurants, though several others offer reasonable vegan options. Its name is also chosen because being vegan is usually more than just a dietary choice, it's a way of life.

Vegan food includes no animal products at all. Cooking this way is a challenge, not as much because there is no meat to centre the dish around, but because many animal products are used to achieve the desired flavour or consistency in a dish. Without the help of these items vegan cooking may seem limited, but I still don't give a pass to food that doesn't taste good. For many of the clientele the appeal is in the selection of ingredients, but my evaluation is in the context of a unique local eatery that emphasizes fresh and healthy cooking.

The root vegetable soup was the pinnacle of the meal. Making a good vegan soup is difficult, since most soups rely on a stock or cream base for body and flavour. Those preconceptions are cast aside by this soup, which was a mix of yams, carrots, celery and parsnips. It had a stunningly smooth texture, and the starch in its constituents gave it a mouth coating body. Fighting the perception that vegan food is bland, this soup had a slight caramel sweetness and was well seasoned.

Whether you choose it for health, ethics, or simply variety, Way of Life is a uniquely tasty destination. It has a homey atmosphere and bucks the stereotypes about vegan cooking. This is the kind of place that makes you feel good about eating out.

Peter H

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