Eco-labels on food can cook up confusion

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We want our food choices to nourish and sustain our bodies. But increasingly, consumers are looking for foods produced in ways that are also good for the Earth.

Consequently, farmers, producers and food manufacturers want to communicate these eco-friendlier growing practices so that consumers can decide which products are aligned with their environmental philosophies and whether these products' higher prices are worth it.

Organic is the benchmark of eco-labels, with the federal government backing its definitions, standards and verification process since 2002. But it is by far not alone. Eco-label terms, seals or logos — grass-fed, free-range, bird-friendly and beyond — are showing up more frequently in all food categories.

"Green is the new fad on a lot of levels," says Urvashi Rangan, director of the Greener Choices program at Consumer Reports magazine. "As people grow more conscious about their personal health, you inevitably get to the environment."

Some of these terms have government rules or guidelines prescribing their use. Others are certified by private third-party companies or organizations that have detailed criteria and standards that must be met by the producer. And some have very little meaning at all, except for what the manufacturer or producer assigns to it.

"There are a lot of green traps out there amidst companies and labels that are doing the right thing," Rangan says.One misleading and overused eco-term is "natural." For meat and poultry, the U.S. Department of Agriculture's definition only means that no artificial flavoring, color ingredients, chemical preservatives or artificial or synthetic ingredients were used and the meat and poultry was minimally processed. Beyond those parameters, marketers for other products can use the word however they see fit.

Rangan's advice is to seek out eco-labels that are backed by clear standards and criteria and are verified either by third-party agencies or independent organizations. The more specific the claim, the better. In the case where labels don't exist, such as at farmers markets and farm stands, ask a lot of questions.

Here we introduce some of the more commonly seen eco-label terms and logos, and explain what they mean.SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTUREOrganic: Since 2002, anything bearing the USDA organic symbol means the food has been produced without conventional pesticides and fertilizers. Antibiotics, growth hormones, sewage sludge, irradiation, animal byproducts and genetically modified ingredients are also banned. Foods with the USDA organic logo must be certified by a USDA-accredited certifier. Consumers Union, the nonprofit publisher of Consumer Reports, considers organic standards "rigorous and (they) add considerable value to conventional food production." Small producers who sell less than $5,000 a year can label food products organic without certification as long as they follow federal criteria, which

may be the case with small family farms selling at local markets.

Increasingly, products that are certified organic will add eco-claims already covered under certification, such as "non-GMO" or "produced without dangerous pesticides."

"These statements do not make the product any more organic than the competing organic product next to it that does not make the claim," Steve Zoller, a consultant in Mount Morris, Livingston County, who works with food companies on label compliance, writes in an e-mail.

There are, however, labeling rules for levels of organic content. A product labeled "100 percent organic" must be just that; "organic" must have at least 95 percent organic ingredients, and "made with organic ingredients" must contain at least 70 percent organic ingredients.

The Farmer's Pledge: Because most farms must be certified in order to label their food organic, those who forego certification must find a creative way to convey how their food is produced.

In 2003, the Northeast Organic Farming Association of New York introduced The Farmer's Pledge. The pledge outlines organic farming methods as well as a farming philosophy that supporters say go above and beyond standards set by U.S. Department of Agriculture's National Organic Program.

You are most likely to see this eco-label at area farmers markets and farm stands.Biodynamic: Demeter Biodynamic is a nongovernmental certified farming program that advocates say goes beyond organic in its strict adherence to weed and pest management, crop rotation and composting. The biodynamic farming movement goes back to the 1920s and also incorporates spiritual elements, such as following a harvest schedule set by moon cycles. Consumers Union calls Demeter Biodynamic "a highly meaningful sustainable agriculture label."

No genetic engineering: Since so many processed foods contain soy or corn in some capacity, it's likely that you are already eating genetically modified organisms without knowing it. There is no law requiring genetically modified foods to be labeled as such, much to the chagrin of anti-GMO activists. The Food and Drug Administration frowns on usage such as GMO-free, arguing that testing is the only way to guarantee no traces of genetically altered material. Instead, you see claims such as "Made with no genetically engineered ingredients."

If you want to avoid GMOs, buy certified organic or other certified labels that ban genetically modified ingredients.COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE

Fair Trade Certified: The Fair Trade label is first and foremost a social justice signifier ensuring that growers of coffee, tea, chocolate, tropical fruits, rice, sugar and other foods receive a fair price, work under fair conditions and have community-building opportunities. Certified growers are prohibited from using GMOs, must limit the use of the most harmful chemical inputs and are encouraged to farm sustainably to protect soil, water and farmworkers' health. Like certified organic, Fair Trade has become a globally significant eco-label, with Starbucks, Target, Wal-Mart and other international retailers buying significant quantities of certified product.

Bird Friendly: The Smithsonian Migratory Bird Center's Bird Friendly program certifies coffee growers whose shade management practices protect bird habitat in tropical regions.

Rainforest Alliance Certified: This certification program follows rules set by the Sustainable Agriculture Network geared toward promoting sound pest management for coffee, chocolate, bananas and other crops; wildlife conservation; and fair labor practices.

SEAFOODThe seafood industry faces many environmental challenges, from overfishing, bycatch and habitat destruction to disease, pollution and escapes associated with certain types of aquaculture. In addition to the following certification and education programs, many fisheries, manufacturers, restaurants and retailers have their own sustainability policies and standards. Marine Stewardship Council: The Marine Stewardship Council is a nonprofit organization that certifies fisheries, manufacturers and retailers. Its label appears on fresh, frozen and canned products. The MSC certification program certifies fisheries from around the globe that keep sustainable stocks and put into practice environmentally sound management techniques.

Although it does not display the certification, Wegmans sells MSC-certified sea bass, wild-caught salmon, halibut, Pacific cod and western Australian lobster tails, says spokeswoman Jeanne Colleluori. The chain received MSC certification last year.

Dolphin-safe: There is a federal definition for the dolphin-safe label, and in some cases, fishing practices are verified by an independent organization, but the term can appear on canned tuna labels without any certification or agency oversight.

Seafood Watch: The Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch is not a certification program, but a consumer-targeted education campaign that rates the eco-friendliness of different types of farmed and wild-caught seafood and explains the impact of each. Visit www.seafoodwatch.org.

MEATS, POULTRY, EGGS, DAIRYGrass-fed: Grass-fed animals used for meat and dairy products require fewer commercial fertilizers, antibiotics and fuel than traditional livestock agriculture. If good practices are followed, grass-fed meat farming also restores pasture ecosystems and prevents soil erosion. Grass-fed meats are generally leaner and have higher levels of Omega-3 fatty acids and other nutrients, proponents say.

The tricky thing about grass-fed claims that appear on beef and other meats is that even cattle that are fattened on grain in feedlots start out the first year eating grass. Some producers would still attach the grass-fed claim.

The USDA's Agricultural Marketing Services came out with a new voluntary standard for grass-fed last fall that requires meats labeled grass-fed to have only grass and forage diet through its lifetime, with the exception of milk consumed before the animals are weaned. It also calls for animals to have pasture access during the growing season. Products that carry the "USDA Process Verified" shield along with the "U.S. Grassfed" claim have been inspected and verified to meet these federal standards.

Pasture-raised, pastured: This is a general term used for meats, eggs and dairy products from animals that are raised entirely or in part on pasture. To really know what pasture-raised means, you must ask the producer.

No hormones: If you see terms like these on pork or poultry products, don't give the producer any special kudos, as the USDA already forbids added hormones in pork and poultry production. That is not the case with beef and dairy, where hormones can be administered. Organic and Biodynamic certifications already ensure no added hormones.

ANIMAL WELFARECertified Humane Raised and Handled: Meats, poultry, dairy products and eggs that earn this certification have been inspected and verified to ensure that animals are treated in a humane manner from birth to slaughter.

Free-range, free-roaming, cage-free: Free-range and free-roaming are extremely vague terms applied mostly to eggs and poultry (but sometimes also to meats) that have little meaning until you ask the producer. According to the USDA, free-range chickens must have access to the outdoors, but the agency does not say how much. It could be the birds are raised mostly on pasture, or it could be the barn door is left open for 10 minutes a day. The USDA definition does not apply to eggs.

Certified Vegan: This certified logo, overseen by the Vegan Awareness Foundation (also known as Vegan Action), is seen on a variety of processed foods as well as personal hygiene and household cleaning products. Qualified products do not include animal ingredients or byproducts and have not been tested on animals. The program does not test or monitor manufacturers, but it requires written statements about their practices.

All vegan, 100 percent vegan, vegan: These are general terms that imply the product was not derived from animals and, perhaps, did not include animal testing, but there is no standard definition.

KMILTNER

 

 

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