Guest guest Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 Thanks - that is excellent information. It seems a good shape at present, but it is quite small. I will definitely keep an eye on it with regard to the pruning. I'll plant it out later in the summer. I'll let you know how it gets on. Jo , yarrow wrote: > > I haven't grown bay trees, but they can be grown in pots as long as > you check the roots. If the roots are coming out of the drainage > holes or winding around the edges of the pot, it's time to transplant > or root-prune. > > I wouldn't transplant it if there's snow on the ground! But probably > any time after the ground warms up and is diggable would be ok. When > you're putting it in the ground, take a few minutes to figure out how > to orient it -- this is obvious, but usually a tree has a better > " face " on one side or another, especially if it's placed against a > fence or a wall. > > It's a good idea to shape/prune trees when they're young to correct > any structural problems -- as long as you don't overdo it and have a > good reason for each cut. If it has a good shape, it may not need any > pruning. Less is more! (The organization called Plant Amnesty in > Seattle has an entertaining slide show on horrors of bad pruning -- > it may be on the web.) Get a couple books on pruning and study them, > or find someone who's an experienced pruner. One of the most > important things to consider is that every pruning cut will stimulate > growth below the cut, so you are not only cutting away wood, you are > also telling the tree where to concentrate its next burst of energy. > In general, pruning in summer will stunt trees, which is often what > you want. Pruning in wet weather invites pathogens to enter fresh > wounds, so it's usually better to prune when rain is not forecast for > a couple days at least (not as crucial for bay trees as for, say, > anything in the rose family). > > > At 7:50 PM +0000 2/20/09, heartwerk wrote: > >Can I ask also about bay. I have a small bay tree in a tub - it is > >about eighteen inches high. At the moment it is looking healthy and I > >want eventually to plant it in the ground. > > > >What time of year is best for this? and when do I start to prune or > >trim it? > > > >Jo > > > >> > >> At 7:45 AM +0000 2/20/09, heartwerk wrote: > >> >I seem to be unable to grow rosemary! Over the years I have made five > >> >attempts, and lost the small bushes each time. They never even get > >> >big enough to be transplanted out of the pot. > >> > > >> >Does anybody have any tips on growing rosemary? > >> > > , yarrow@ wrote: > >> Rosemary likes excellent drainage, alkaline soil, and a warm climate > >> (or a container you can move indoors or to a sheltered spot for the > >> winter). > >> If it's in a container, it needs to be watered regularly. > >> > >> It grows like a weed here. I planted a small one in the garden last > >> year and it needs no attention! All I do is prune it back when it > >> starts growing into the other plants. It's a low-growing variety > >> planted between bearded irises, thyme, and marjoram, so it does get > >> some water when I water the irises in the dry season. > >> > >> Do you have a local garden center that knows plants? Usually someone > >> at a small independent nursery (not a chain/franchise) will know > >> something about local soils and how to grow the plants they sell. > >> > >> If you bought them all from one source, try a different nursery. > >> Maybe they were not fully rooted, or the roots were beginning to rot? > >> Maybe the soil mix was too soggy, or the nursery workers overwatered > >> it? > >> > > > > > > > > > >--- > > > >To send an email to > >-! Groups Links > > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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